MiEV, potential regen braking issue

[shamie]

Hey MyiMiEV brains trust,
Last night my MiEV conked out and upon basic testing this morning, it seems that when I drive it in B mode is when it conks out. I tested it around the streets in Eco mode and it hasn't conked out. I was able to get home in D mode. I do have an older iMiEV AC charger/DCDC converter instead of my previous MiEV one as I had other issues with that one http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4079

When it conks out there is a ding sound, the yellow high voltage issue light (car with '!' on it) light comes on as well as the TCL OFF and the car with swerve lines behind it. If I drive a bit more it goes into Turtle mode

Has anyone experienced this before? I'm very much a novice when it comes to cars and all the acronyms so I was wondering if you guys would recommend I take it to an auto electrician, a mechanic or a wizard?

 

[PV1]

Fascinating. This is a new one for me.

Does it have trouble accelerating hard? I’m wondering if there’s a loose or bad connection somewhere. Another thought would be the MCU going bad. Was the recall done on it?

 

[kiev]

TCL is the traction controller system and no regen will occur with that error. Sometimes a low tire pressure or worn out tire such that the diameter is smaller than spec, will cause this error.

The gear position sensor may have dirty contacts such that the B mode has intermittent contact; this could confuse the EV-ECU and cause it to throw the HV warning light/fault.

What is the age and condition of your 12V Aux battery--a weak, old or worn out aux can cause many problems.

You will need some sort of OBDII scan tool device to read which specific DTCs are being thrown if you want to troubleshoot the issue. A dealer has the MUT3 tool and can do this for a fee, but they also have access to all the parts and tech info that we and you do not.

Your link did not go to a specific post, please review and edit to point to your post.

 

[shamie]

Fascinating. This is a new one for me.

Does it have trouble accelerating hard? I’m wondering if there’s a loose or bad connection somewhere. Another thought would be the MCU going bad. Was the recall done on it?

It didn't, no. Not sure about the recall. I'll get back to you on that one..

 

[shamie]

TCL is the traction controller system and no regen will occur with that error. Sometimes a low tire pressure or worn out tire such that the diameter is smaller than spec, will cause this error.

The gear position sensor may have dirty contacts such that the B mode has intermittent contact; this could confuse the EV-ECU and cause it to throw the HV warning light/fault.

What is the age and condition of your 12V Aux battery--a weak, old or worn out aux can cause many problems.

You will need some sort of OBDII scan tool device to read which specific DTCs are being thrown if you want to troubleshoot the issue. A dealer has the MUT3 tool and can do this for a fee, but they also have access to all the parts and tech info that we and you do not.

Your link did not go to a specific post, please review and edit to point to your post.

Thanks for the response guys. I didn't receive an email notifying me about the responses unfortunately. I drove it yesterday in D mode and it was fine. Then this morning it conked out in any mode. I feel a bit hopeless with this and took it to an Auto Electrician before I got a chance to check the voltage coming off the 12V battery. The battery is only a few months old.

I use an OBDlink MX. and got the U1116 (Meter module: KOS CAN timeout/not equipped) and U1508 - 09 which are issues with power windows of which I have none.

(Beware: Frustrated rant ahead about the previous issue) The only guy I know of with a working MUT3 tool scanned it late last year and basically said I should get a new AC charger/DCDC converter, which was almost impossible to find. He reset the battery which messed the guessometer to saying I had 140km's, to which he said the good new is that the range is much better but it was the same (approx 70kms) and so the guessometer is still not correct and I have to use the tripometer and reset it each time. I messaged him about this but he never responded

Long story short.. Mitsubishi wouldn't help because it's a grey import. I got onto to a guy who had contacts in Japan an getting it from Japan was gonna take 3 month and cost a LOT brand new but then the (nice) guy said they won't be able to do it. By that stage I had the iMiEV AC charger/DCDC converter and was able to put that in and cut a square in the metal cover so it'd fit. Not sure how to attach a photo but it's in this AEVA thread https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=6848&start=25

Sorry if that was a bit much. I have the previous DTCs from when the guy scanned the previous AC charger/DCDC converter but I'm assuming they won't be helpful

Thanks again for your help and expertise guys

 

[shamie]

TCL is the traction controller system and no regen will occur with that error. Sometimes a low tire pressure or worn out tire such that the diameter is smaller than spec, will cause this error.

The gear position sensor may have dirty contacts such that the B mode has intermittent contact; this could confuse the EV-ECU and cause it to throw the HV warning light/fault.

What is the age and condition of your 12V Aux battery--a weak, old or worn out aux can cause many problems.

You will need some sort of OBDII scan tool device to read which specific DTCs are being thrown if you want to troubleshoot the issue. A dealer has the MUT3 tool and can do this for a fee, but they also have access to all the parts and tech info that we and you do not.

Your link did not go to a specific post, please review and edit to point to your post.

Where would the gear position sensor be located exactly? Near the wheel?

 

[PV1]

Under the back of the car near the center. It’s a black plastic box attached to the side of the gearbox. These have a history of shifting getting stiff and causing problems. I’ve had to lubricate it on both of my cars.

 

[shamie]

Under the back of the car near the center. It’s a black plastic box attached to the side of the gearbox. These have a history of shifting getting stiff and causing problems. I’ve had to lubricate it on both of my cars.

The thing is it's a MiEV (Van) with an iMiEV OBC/DCDC converter in it. So I'm wondering if it's in another location or where it could be. If I was able to locate it do you think I could fix it myself or should I take it back to the Auto Electrician and get them to check it?

 

[PV1]

As far as I know, the van and i both use the same drive system. Here is where myself and others have had to lubricate the gear shifter and position switch.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/69fs2f90lieyd17/Shifter%20Lubrication.png?dl=0

 

[shamie]

As far as I know, the van and i both use the same drive system. Here is where myself and others have had to lubricate the gear shifter and position switch.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/69fs2f90lieyd17/Shifter%20Lubrication.png?dl=0

Thank you PV1, I've taken the plug out. Sprayed it with some WD40 on both sides. I'll apply the spray to those spots too. I really appreciate your help

 

[coulomb]

I've taken the plug out. Sprayed it with some WD40 on both sides.

Actually, WD40 (basically oil in a spray can) is not the right thing to use for electrical contacts. It leaves an oily reside behind; that's good for seized bolts but bad for electrical contacts. You should use something like CRC, a contact spray, which cleans then evaporates to leave no reside.

 

[shamie]

I've taken the plug out. Sprayed it with some WD40 on both sides.

Actually, WD40 (basically oil in a spray can) is not the right thing to use for electrical contacts. It leaves an oily reside behind; that's good for seized bolts but bad for electrical contacts. You should use something like CRC, a contact spray, which cleans then evaporates to leave no reside.

****.. that explains why the van now doesn't go into ready, all the warning lights are on. The battery level is 0 and the charge light flashes. The charger turns on at the wall and attempts to charge but doesn't.

Have I ruined it?

Could I fix the plug still or would I have to get a new one?

 

[coulomb]

Have I ruined it?
Could I fix the plug still or would I have to get a new one?

A bit of oil won't ruin it, but oil isn't a conductor of electricity, so it gets in the way.

Spraying with a bit of CRC (Electrical Cleaner, I should have been more specific) should clear away the oil, I think.

 

[shamie]

Applied the spray but it's still the same. Is there anything else I need to do? Should I detach the 12V battery? More spray?

 

[PV1]

This is starting to sound more and more like a battery problem. Do you have an OBDLink and an Android phone? I think we better check the cell voltages in the drive battery.

 

[shamie]

This is starting to sound more and more like a battery problem. Do you have an OBDLink and an Android phone? I think we better check the cell voltages in the drive battery.

I do but it won't connect to the ECU since the spray. I sprayed the electrical cleaner in the plugs but sadly the same thing is happening..

 

[stoatwblr]

Actually, WD40 (basically oil in a spray can) is not the right thing to use for electrical contacts. It leaves an oily reside behind; that's good for seized bolts but bad for electrical contacts.

WD40 is even worse than that. It's good for "water displacing" (That's what WD stands for) and rust penetration (loosening frozen threads) but should NEVER EVER be used as a lubricant or on electrical contacts

That "oily residue" goes tacky and then gummy. By all accounts it's mostly fish oil in a kerosene carrier. It was designed as a treatment to stop the stainless steel nosecones on Titan missiles rusting in their silos and everything else is a "discovered use"

WD40 works ok as a ljubricant or cleaner for a very short period and then gums up, usually making things even worse than they were before you used it

The number of times I've had to cleanup after some cowboy "sprayed it with WD40 and it works ok" - except it doesn't work ok for very long
- makes me want to beat people around the head and shoulders with the can. Keep it around for coating metal surfaces (it's a fairly good anti graffiti treatment) and getting stubborn nuts loose but it's not your general purpose go-to spray

(Worst case scenario is people putting wd40 into locks. You usually end up having to replace them shortly afterwards when the right treatment would have kept them serviceable. Similar issues happen if people use WD40 on car door window glass slides. It works long enough to get it out of the workshop but a burned out lift motor is almost inevitable if the glass doesn't tear loose from the mounts first)

 

[shamie]

Thanks Stoatwblr, I definitely learnt my lesson. I got contact cleaner shortly afterwards and sprayed it back in there a few times. Do you think that was enough to clean it out?

 

[coulomb]

Do you think that was enough to clean it out?

I would guess so. Contact cleaner is a solvent, as far as I know.