I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[Rational]

Hey guys!

Glad you guys are here. Hope to learn so much from you and share what I can to help out.

I'm buying an MIEV here this coming week. We will visit it this coming Thursday so I will be able to get some ODB readings while there.

Here is what the seller has posted in the for sale ad:

"2011 Silver II No repair history, 200,000km, 16kw, base grade, brought from mainland and used. Motor burned from overdoing it? Warning light on, power on but accelerator won't work. Fully charged and shows 80-85km. I don't know if the battery was replaced, but it was able to run a long distance considering its age. When it started, it was very comfortable and smooth, running 60km. The non-rechargeable battery was replaced last November (about 10,000 yen), and tires were replaced last December (foreign made about 40,000 yen). CD deck, back camera. 200v charging outlet. Power windows, keyless, QC quick charging port. Only one key. MOT was only done in January and still has a lot left. Car tax paid, but the local repair shop refused, and when I called the dealer to check, they said it would cost about 400,000 yen if it was the motor, so I gave up and gave up. Would you like to have it repaired at a car shop or repair shop, or would you like to have it for parts? *It will be deleted at the end of this year. No claims, no returns, please."

I will also bring a fully charged 12V battery in the hopes that and a reset with my scanner will allow it to drive. My assumption is it's not the motor, but perhaps a problem with the loom or MCU. Motors don't often burn out at only 200,000 kilometers, right? I wouldn't think so.

In the meantime I will be reading as many posts here as I can to learn the typical troubleshooting steps. Already finding some great threads!

I already bought a Nissan Leaf and upgraded the battery in it from 24kWh to 30kWh with Dala's can bus and software, so have a little experience so far with EVs. Also have a Toyota ECOMS of late too I replaced with new SLA batteries. Got lithium blade batteries in boxes ready for that little project eventually.

Love this stuff.

Thanks so much.
R

 

[Rational]

By the way, I've got a Lelink 2 ODBII wireless dongle as well as a "OBDLink SX USB" red USB cable I bought off of Amazon and haven't used yet. Is there some recommended software that this will work great for with the MIEV? Or what's best? I don't mind buying something additional if it's optimal for the MIEV.

I will be bringing my XTOOL InPlus IP819TP when I check out the car for the first time. Hopefully that is good enough to gather what I need for errors. But if you guys usually use a particular app with a wifi odb2 dongle I'll also gather those screenshots of it's current condition. Anything to make it easier.

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[MickeyS70]

By the way, I've got a Lelink 2 ODBII wireless dongle as well as a "OBDLink SX USB" red USB cable I bought off of Amazon and haven't used yet. Is there some recommended software that this will work great for with the MIEV? Or what's best? I don't mind buying something additional if it's optimal for the MIEV.

I will be bringing my XTOOL InPlus IP819TP when I check out the car for the first time. Hopefully that is good enough to gather what I need for errors. But if you guys usually use a particular app with a wifi odb2 dongle I'll also gather those screenshots of it's current condition. Anything to make it easier.

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Hello and welcome to the forum
See link below what apps that work with an I-MIEV:

https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/

 

[Rational]

Thank you. I will download the CaniOn app and bring that along to test with.

Next I will see if anyone posted the actual 12v battery size/model number and perhaps buy a brand new one to bring with me on Thursday. I have some strong 12v ones but I assume they'll be much too large to fit in the compartment for ease of testing.

I think I found the info here. "The original Japanese battery is a 34B19L(S)." "The OEM battery size is approx: length 180 mm, width 124 mm, height 201 mm. "
Source: https://www.gogreenautos.co.uk/how-tos/mitsubishi-i-miev-12v-auxiliary-battery

 

[kiev]

The battery may also be called a Type 151R.

If you can read out the DTCs that will help narrow down the troubleshooting to specific area.

 

[MickeyS70]

Thank you. I will download the CaniOn app and bring that along to test with.

IMHO you might be better off with HobDrive (paid version) as it is know to work with low cost dongles and can read/clear DTCs.

 

[Rational]

The battery may also be called a Type 151R.

If you can read out the DTCs that will help narrow down the troubleshooting to specific area.

Thanks. Will do.

Also picked up a Tuflong 40BL19L. Hope this one will be a match. Guy at the car care shop said this should be.

 

[Rational]

IMHO you might be better off with HobDrive (paid version) as it is know to work with low cost dongles and can read/clear DTCs.

Okay. Good tip. Thank you. Will do. Got the free one downloaded now. I'll test it out and purchase.

 

[Rational]

So is there a typical trouble shooting pathway/diagram for these MIEVs?

Or do I read individual threads on each subtopic based on what the error codes show?

I'm starting here for now: https://myimiev.com/threads/tech-reference-articles.5433/

 

[kiev]

Typically the owner would read out the DTCs which identify the affected subsystem and post a copy of the screenshot or a list of the codes. Here is a recent example, https://myimiev.com/threads/standas-power-steering-problem.5646/#post-50127

If it is an issue that has been reported many times, then there is likely already a thread with the collective knowledge of how to fix it.

If it is a new DTC, then the investigation will begin with a look at the FSM troubleshooting and go from there.

We have never seen a report of a complete motor failure, but have seen hundreds of EV problems that were caused by an old, weak or worn out 12V battery. So a verified good, strong and fully charged battery is the first and most important requirement to solving issues.

Intermittent problems that come and go at random are typically due to wiring (rodent damage) or corrosion in connector contacts and terminals.

 

[Rational]

Typically the owner would read out the DTCs which identify the affected subsystem and post a copy of the screenshot or a list of the codes. Here is a recent example, https://myimiev.com/threads/standas-power-steering-problem.5646/#post-50127

If it is an issue that has been reported many times, then there is likely already a thread with the collective knowledge of how to fix it.

If it is a new DTC, then the investigation will begin with a look at the FSM troubleshooting and go from there.

We have never seen a report of a complete motor failure, but have seen hundreds of EV problems that were caused by an old, weak or worn out 12V battery. So a verified good, strong and fully charged battery is the first and most important requirement to solving issues.

Intermittent problems that come and go at random are typically due to wiring (rodent damage) or corrosion in connector contacts and terminals.

Perfect. That's what I was hoping you would say.

I'll be getting those codes on Thursday when I first visit the car.

Anything else to look for or get pictures of? I was reading it's possible to get a picture of the battery label under the rear tire if I stick my phone up in there and wipe off the dirt first? Googling and searching threads now.

I want to gather as much info as I can on that first visit to speed up the research and hopefully get it running on the first or second visit when we pick it up so as not to need to tow it. Fingers crossed I can pull it off with more reading between now and Thursday.

Enjoying the threads so far!

 

[kiev]

With a strong 12V the system should be able to turn on the CAN buss and give some status or DTCs. If the pack has energy it might go to READY; if there are HV errors then it will prevent ready mode. If the pack is too low, then no ready mode and possible errors, and would need to be charged. If AC charging doesn't work then EVSE or OBC suspect.

Lift the "engine" compartment lid in the rear (wingnuts that go back in easier in specific order) and inspect and take a picture to see if anyone has been messing around on either the OBC or MCU

 

[Rational]

With a strong 12V the system should be able to turn on the CAN buss and give some status or DTCs. If the pack has energy it might go to READY; if there are HV errors then it will prevent ready mode. If the pack is too low, then no ready mode and possible errors, and would need to be charged. If AC charging doesn't work then EVSE or OBC suspect.

Lift the "engine" compartment lid in the rear (wingnuts that go back in easier in specific order) and inspect and take a picture to see if anyone has been messing around on either the OBC or MCU

Sweet. Okay, that first paragraph aligns with what I though I'd need to do. Thanks for the high level overview.

Fortunately they stated in the sales post description, "Fully charged and shows 80-85km." FWIW being a GOM right?

So I'm thinking it charges just fine and that the problem is perhaps with a corroded contact in a loom somewhere at best. Or perhaps one of those PCB boards has one of the well known burned out components I can just repair or replace the board if I can order one somewhere.

I couldn't find the info online or in threads here yet, but I assume the label I need to take a picture of is #1 in the below pic?

 

[MickeyS70]

You won’t see any of these with the battery in situ. Stick a camera underneath by left back wheel and go about half way across, angle it 45 deg upwards and take a few pics. It’s a small, rectangular label with a barcode on the left and pack year on the right: mine shows 11/08 (August 2011)

 

[Rational]

You won’t see any of these with the battery in situ. Stick a camera underneath by left back wheel and go about half way across, angle it 45 deg upwards and take a few pics. It’s a small, rectangular label with a barcode on the left and pack year on the right: mine shows 11/08 (August 2011)
View attachment 1075

Thank you so much. Will try.

I'm heading to the car in about 3 hours to check it out.

By the way, Is the JDM MIEV OBD2 port easy to find like the US version? Right under the steering wheel?

 

[Rational]

With a strong 12V the system should be able to turn on the CAN buss and give some status or DTCs. If the pack has energy it might go to READY; if there are HV errors then it will prevent ready mode. If the pack is too low, then no ready mode and possible errors, and would need to be charged. If AC charging doesn't work then EVSE or OBC suspect.

Lift the "engine" compartment lid in the rear (wingnuts that go back in easier in specific order) and inspect and take a picture to see if anyone has been messing around on either the OBC or MCU

Well, I visited the car just now. 12v battery was completely dead on the multimeter.

So I installed my brand new one out of the box. Dash display came to life with no problems. I'll post a pic here of it and the body and undercarriage.

But I wasn't able to pull any DTC codes with my scan tool nor the obd dongle I brought.

I was feeling rushed with the current owner standing in the hot sun with me while all of my OBD scanners werne't working. So gave up on codes for today.

But the body looks like it's in great condition even though it's got high mileage.

I also couldn't find the traction battery tag location based on the pic above.

Considering the great price of $650 and lack of any rust damage I just decided to buy it and figure it out when I get it home.

But, we learned that she tried to tow a 2-ton truck with it and that's when it broke. She tried to tow it and within a very short distance/time it stopped working. Not sure if that means 3-5 minute of towing or 2-3km distance. But that's when it stopped working. It won't go into drive or reverse now.

What do you think? Could she have burned out the motor or transmission with that tow? Or does the car protect itself and have a safety lock it puts itself into? Hoping it's something easy to fix.

 

[MickeyS70]

Considering the great price of $650 and lack of any rust damage I just decided to buy it and figure it out when I get it home.

Hoping it's something easy to fix.

Personally I would go for it (but then I’m heavily biased). Even if you can’t fix it, battery cells alone are worth more then asking price.

 

[Rational]

Personally I would go for it (but then I’m heavily biased). Even if you can’t fix it, battery cells alone are worth more then asking price.

Thanks. Yeah. We're getting it. She'll change the name over to us tomorrow. Then we can pick it up anytime thereafter.

One thing though is that when we put it into neutral it is very hard to push the car. So I'm wondering if there is some damage to the transmission or motor? What do you think?

I'll post some pictures here.

After we put the brand new battery in the car display appears nicely after we turn the key.

But it won't move when put into reverse or forward.














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[Rational]

 

[Rational]

This was the dead battery she had in it.