i-Miev Suspension Front Control Arm Bush Replacement

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martinwinlow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
119
Hi,

Apologies to those who may be offended by resurrecting this old thread.

I have a rattling suspension on my 2009 i-MiEV which appears to be coming from the rear bush located in what the workshop manual calls the 'Control Arm'. It sounds like it is the offside one that is making the noise but I plan to replace both sides.

I am wondering if anyone can confirm (see pic) that I need the item referred to earlier in this thread as 'MAB-066'?

Am I right in thinking the bush is a press-fit?

bVgbuwYBzhHdwChZ6

(link if that doesn't work - https://photos.app.goo.gl/bVgbuwYBzhHdwChZ6)

CEnNDfR9UZ6R5BG18

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CEnNDfR9UZ6R5BG18
(Edit by JoeS - removed redundant https)

Regards, Martin
Isle of Colonsay
Scotland
 
@martin

You started a thread in the read only section so nobody can reply there.
Edit by JoeS: just moved Martin's post over to here (above).

Let's see if the pictures will post here.
AM-JKLUXndF_H6Z6_YG6D68RTRjRrjcVn0FfS41CBpX8PxGiq6H8tw3zY3VOmaEeO4ubQ67-5ss6jLgxyxt_cPJGvbIsOVX3QKspAlwxveyrfZ2QUDOgt6rVxP-r58VUjTEJJHecO3ORlClRt2hHUEKUTeBl=w505-h336-no


i see where you have lots of dirt or corrosion (sand or salt) on your suspension
AM-JKLW_hu8Rhip4jDzkOFzph6n4HXMXtOSJCydkVRqd3i0cYJWYFlzzlFGqofjpnK0VPyvDAb-jPov1X16ZNfLe2us0WNgkW8YzJukukblhof-oDD2hAyv5ojNGYRbD_urOCr4ytMsf_Oev5PbC1bwzl87M=w1540-h1154-no

[edit]
On my 2012 car the top edge of the outer metal cylinder of the bushing extends ~10mm above the control arm. On yours it appears the metal rim has been knocked down nearly flush with the arm and the central rubber web of the bushing may have broken. It does appear to be a press-fit. Good luck and hope the replacement goes well.
 
Thanks Kiev and JoeS,

More haste less speed (in my posting)!

I am based on a small island off the west coast of Scotland and sand (and corrosion) is an issue. I try to keep the underside (and backs of panels etc) Waxoyled and the car is generally fairing very well - especially considering it has spent its entire (nearly 13 year) life up around this part of the world.

I will hopefully await confirmation of the part required and order a spring compressor in the meantime.
 
If you are planning to remove only the lower control arm, you do not need a spring compressor.
Remove the horizontal bolt that holds the front bush, the vertical one that goes through the damaged rear bush, and then unscrew and remove the shouldered nut and bolt that goes through the slot ground into the pin of the outer suspension ball joint within the split socket at the bottom of the Macpherson strut. All these fasteners are 17mm AF. The ball joint pin can then be driven out of the bottom of the strut, and the control arm rubber bushes pulled out of the front and rear subframe mounts.
I cannot see any positive location for the vertical height or depth of the outer metal sleeve of the rear bush. I have not tried to press this bush in either direction, but I suspect that it may not be removable - it may be spot-welded to the control arm.
 
Thanks Eddie49. The manual does suggest the whole control arm comes as one piece but a post on the AEVA forum suggests the bushes are replaceable (intriguingly by one shared with one for a Volvo - https://www.forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=5151&p=91430#p91430) but it not clear enough to warrant taking my car apart to find out...
 
i found a picture and description for the MAB-066 at an Australian parts shop that shows the stepped taper in the rubber ends such as what i saw on my 2012.

https://auto-parts.com.au/mab-066-rear-arm-bushing-front-arm.html

[Also found on AU ebay site:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/263133879170 ]

mab-066_5.jpg


Genuine OEM Cross Reference:
MR316074, 4013A045, 4013A046, 4013A291, 4013A292, 3520.Y5, 3521.V6
IN STOCK SKUMAB-066
Special Price $11.80
$22.64

Description:
Please check OEM numbers above for fitment confirmation, below compatibility list is a guide only. If you are not sure please check the OEM number with your local genuine parts dealer or send us the VIN/Frame number so we can check for you. (We take no responisbility for costs or freight associated with wrong parts ordered):

MITSUBISHI CHARIOT GRANDIS N80,90# 1997.08-2003.04 [JPN]
MITSUBISHI RVR N60,70# 1997.09-2002.08 [JPN]
MITSUBISHI SPACE WAGON N80,90# 1998.07-2004.01 [EUR]
MITSUBISHI SPACE WAGON N84W 1997.08-2004.04 [GE]
MITSUBISHI CHARIOT/SPACE WAGON GRANDIS N84W/N94W 1997-2003
MITSUBISHI SPACE RUNNER N63,64W 1999.05-2002.08 [EUR]
MITSUBISHI SPACE WAGON N84W 1998.07-2004.01 [GE]
MITSUBISHI RVR N61W/N64W/N64WG/N71W/N73W/N73WG/N74W/N74WG 1997-2002
MITSUBISHI SPACE WAGON N84W 1998.07-2002.04 [GE]
MITSUBISHI I HA1W 2006.10- [GE]
MITSUBISHI I HA1W 2005.12-2006.08 [GE]
MITSUBISHI I HAD# 2007.02-2007.11 [EUR]
MITSUBISHI I-MIEV HA0# 2010.10- [NA]
MITSUBISHI I-MIEV HA4W 2009.06- [GE]
MITSUBISHI I-MIEV HA3W 2009.06- [GE]
MITSUBISHI I-MIEV HAD# 2009.06- [EUR]
CITROEN C-ZERO
PEUGEOT ION
CITROEN C-ZERO 2010-2014
MITSUBISHI I [AI] HA1W/HA3W 2007-2013
MITSUBISHI I-MIEV HA3W/HA3V/HA4W/H4V 2009-2014
PEUGEOT ION 2009-2014

=====

Can't find a diagram which shows the specific parts from Mits, but found the entire RH lower control arm for $225 from Mits direct. So they just replace the entire assembly and don't service bushings separately it seems. i ran into this with BMW thrust control arms, but eventually found the bushings and pressed them in myself.

https://www.mitsubishidirectparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-suspension-control-arm-4013a297?c=Zz1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1zcHJpbmdzLWFuZC1yZWxhdGVkLWNvbXBvbmVudHMmbD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1taXRzdWJpc2hpJm89aS1taWV2Jnk9MjAxMiZ0PXNlJmU9ZWxlY3RyaWM%3D
 
I've got some front end noise on my 2012. My mechanic said to source lower control arm bushings and strut mounts.

I found the control arm bushings here:

https://febestparts.com/

MAB-DA1 $15.95USD FRONT BUSHING, FRONT CONTROL ARM
MAB-066 $21.95USD REAR BUSHING, FRONT CONTROL ARM

Any idea where I'd source the strut mounts? From the parts diagram at https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/mitsubishi/i/1-hatchback-right-2006-1247/transmission-and-chassis-2/front-susp-strut-spring-1154 I'm not exactly sure which part/parts I am after.

Andrew
 
i would replace all the rubber and plastic parts, e.g. the top and bottom spring protectors (rubber), the "bearing" and its cover plate (i suspect it is just a plastic plate and bushing), the isolator piece (likely rubber), plus i would replace any washers or nuts that get removed (this is standard practice in a dealers service shop).

A strut mount in my mind refers to the bearing carrier at the top of the strut that mounts to the car.
 
I took the parts diagram to my mechanic (https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/mitsubishi/i/1-hatchback-right-2006-1247/transmission-and-chassis-2/front-susp-strut-spring-1154) and we ordered everything from 40002 up.

I also ordered control arm assemblies instead of just bushings. The cost difference between the full assembly and the bushings+labour shouldn't be that much. With the full assembly, I also get new balljoints.

Andrew
 
I just replaced a bent lower control arm on my salvaged project “Baja MiEV”, and discovered when pulling the good arm from my parts car that I didn’t EVen need to jack it up- just undid all 3 bolts and dropped the arm as the car sat!
 

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No problems, @michael8554 the whole job took about an hour of grunting, but with just the right amount of swearing, the replacement control arm popped into place. The forward body mount in my "Baja MiEV" for the horizontal bolt was a bit deformed by the collision, but a few taps of the hammer got it lined up again. My first off-road test drives were quite successful after lifting the suspension about 1.5 inches as "Stage 1" and just running on my snow tires. Traction and torque control were awesome, but the weakest link will definitely be articulation, as when traversing ditches, it's only too willing to balance on one front wheel and the opposite rear wheel, instantly eliminating all progress! I dealt with that by piling rocks under the airborne rear wheel and positioning a passenger in the cargo area's rear corner. The front struts still have a lot of room to stretch, and the vehicle still has a nose-down orientation, so that's the next step, along with finding the largest possible tires. I could cut out about 4" of fender both front and rear, but I'm looking at 195/60R15 as the largest tire that should fit in the rear without further modification, given our 26” wheel well diameter. Not sure about the front, given our tight tolerances on width. Anybody else experimented with large diameter front tires and wheels?IMG_4828.jpeg
 
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