GENTLEMEN. I need help.

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First, the condenser is in the front of the car, giving off hot air not cool air. Second, the 'Temp' control regulates the system trying to maintain the evaporator (the part inside the car) at a constant temperature, so when you blow air through it, you'll get a regulated temperature in the car. When the fan speed is increased, blowing more warm air through the evaporator, that warms up the evaporator causing the the compressor to work harder to bring the evaporator back down to the temperature it's set for

Because any 'Temp' you select on the dial is colder than the air within the car, it doesn't seem to matter much where that dial is set, at least not initially - I *think* once you have the car cooled off if you were to turn that Temp dial down to a warmer position without altering the fan speed, the RR would probably show you a savings for doing so . . . . but I haven't personally verified that

You can easily see the effect of the fan speed setting by turning on your A/C on and watching the RR numbers as you turn the fan speed up and down - The RR gauge is a computed estimate based on the energy per mile being used (or in this case, the extra energy it anticipates the A/C system will draw) so that's an indication the computer knows the A/C will be using more amps because of the higher fan speed setting so it responds with a lower RR number

Don
 
I have two very important questions. First I wanted to clean my seat so I used some Scotchgard cleaner I found at the recycling center nearly full. It made my seat smells so bad I could not take it many cleaning efforts were made but didn't work until I unbolted the seat took it out cleaned it and left it in the sun for hours.

Now my airbag light is on I'm very sure I plugged everything back in but I'll check it again but does anyone have a suggestion for that?

Second question is; we are in Florida's rainy season and with that everytime it rains, I go to the nearby corporate section at night to burn off my tires. I like to think I'm a fairly attuned Car Guy, but is it normal for the front tires; particularly one tire to show extreme signs of wear and hard scrubbing where the other front and rears are showing none?
 
Welcome to the school of hard knocks--getting an education is an expensive venture.

1. As they say on the label, test in a small area first before trying to treat the entire surface.

2. Removing the seats sets off the airbag warning, and it takes a dealer visit to use the MUT to reset the code.

3. The skinny front tires are VERY sensitive to alignment--the least amount of incorrect toe will shred the tires to the cords in no time. i've been fighting this also on the front left--been thru 3 tires in less than 40k miles. In doing some research i found where another Japanese car maker instructs to remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle on the hub to make the adjustment, then reinstall the tie rod to the hub. Evidently twisting the tie rod shaft moves the 'zero' position of the steering rack and results in excessive tire wear. Who knew that one? American cars have always been simple--loosen the nut, twist the shaft to adjust, tighten nut, and good to go...
 
Well, kurwa. Guess I won't have a driver airbag for a while..

Test spot?! On spray could clear a city block!. Got it under control. Super Clean engine degreaser, and sunlight got the stank out. In other news, I have an RR of 72 after using 4 bars to do 22 miles. Need to test. Coming home, one bar read 7 miles; 112 hypothetical RR...
 
Mievo said:
Well, kurwa. Guess I won't have a driver airbag for a while.
When the airbag light is on, all airbags are disabled.
Mievo said:
Test spot?! On spray could clear a city block!. Got it under control. Super Clean engine degreaser, and sunlight got the stank out. In other news, I have an RR of 72 after using 4 bars to do 22 miles. Need to test. Coming home, one bar read 7 miles; 112 hypothetical RR...
Your voice-to text barely makes any sense, although a few of us understand the expression you used in the first sentence (please, this is a family forum). You might consider manually editing before posting.
Mievo said:
I have an RR of 72 after using 4 bars to do 22 miles.
You're kidding, right?
 
kiev said:
2. Removing the seats sets off the airbag warning, and it takes a dealer visit to use the MUT to reset the code.
.

The old work-around for that particular event is to disconnect the 12V battery for about 10 mins before you take the seat out, and then re-connect the battery once everything is back OK... can't see why the IMIEV would be different there, so I assume that would prevent further occurrence to anyone on the forum wishing to take a seat out in future.
 
Some codes are "hard" codes and will stay set even if a code reader or battery disconnect is used to try and clear the module's memory. The airbag controller is one that sets a hard code and the M.U.T. needs to be used to reset it. I had the passenger seat out and accidently put the car in the ready mode which ended with a trip to the dealer. The car was still in warranty and I played dumb but the code showed exactly which sensor was disconnected which made the dealer assume it might have had a loose connection. I told them I would be back if it happened again :oops:
 
Mievo said:
In other news, I have an RR of 72 after using 4 bars to do 22 miles. Need to test. Coming home, one bar read 7 miles; 112 hypothetical RR...
Golly! - I had to go back to your very first post
"I know the iMiev, I have been researching it for years. I knew what to expect. I have had mine for two weeks of surprises. It is a '12, used, with 33xxx mi on the odometer. I left the dealership with 14 of 16 bars. Range remaining indicated was 47, the quick charger I was going to leapfrog to was 41 miles away. Staying well within the Eco Grange oftentimes having the needle on the oh I was driving up the interstate at 55 miles an hour well under the speed limit, but keeping close to the other slow cars in the right lane. I made it 25 miles and had to pull over to try and get a little charge"

Either your battery has made an amazing recovery over the past couple months . . . . or the driver has learned a few things! ;-)

If your alignment is so bad it's already shredding a front tire, that's pretty hard on your maximum range too

Don
 
Don said:
Either your battery has made an amazing recovery over the past couple months . . . . or the driver has learned a few things! ;-)
or the odometer has switched from miles to kilometers.
 
Even so, 72 km with 4 bars gone (12 remaining) is 45 miles - Much, much better than he was doing a couple months ago

Don
 
JoeS said:
Mievo, even though kiev addressed tire wear, I'm still confused -
Mievo said:
...we are in Florida's rainy season and with that everytime it rains, I go to the nearby corporate section at night to burn off my tires...
What in the world does that mean?
Yeah, I was afraid to ask...
 
wmcbrine said:
JoeS said:
Mievo, even though kiev addressed tire wear, I'm still confused -
Mievo said:
...we are in Florida's rainy season and with that everytime it rains, I go to the nearby corporate section at night to burn off my tires...
What in the world does that mean?
Yeah, I was afraid to ask...

I presume he's using the wet pavement in an unpopulated location to do donuts or burnouts and deliberately wear down the tires. Whether that is wise is another question... :roll:

PS- When I had a pair of badly edge-scalloped tires due to lateral runout from worn rear wheel bearings on our van, I couldn't find a tire shop that still had a shaving machine to true 'em up (after the hubs were replaced). Swapping those tires to the front for long burnout was fun, but didn't seem to do much to cure the cupping, so I replaced them.
 
Ladies and gents; I've been busy.
Jray3 is right. I drift, burnout and do donuts on wet pavement. My rears though, show no wear. It's just the front passenger side. I think I'll have to check the alignment. I don't hear any funny sounds; I don't suspect a bearing.

Don, you may be right. I find even in b or d mode, there is spooky action in the power curve. You can be doing 55 and have the needle on the first white line and be continuing at speed or you can have it behind the C of Eco and continue at speed.

Referring to people questioning the 72 mile range remaining; that was after discharging from a half battery on a small trip and then charging up later. I get around a lot on the weekends, sometimes I'll push the limits of range, sometimes I'll just use up the battery on a grocery run.

I do on occasion to entertain myself switch it to km.

I suspect that when the tire problem is remedied I'll be able to stretch the range bit further. I figured out the nominal distance that I can expect with my typical driving habits, and how far I can push it if I really really want to.
Still though, I may yet invest in a project car. I need a 5-speed. I always come back to an '89 Supra. Birthyear nostalgia :D
 
Mievo said:
In other news, I have an RR of 72 after using 4 bars to do 22 miles.
Mievo said:
Referring to people questioning the 72 mile range remaining; that was after discharging from a half battery on a small trip and then charging up later.

Does this mean that you drove for 22 miles, RECHARGED FULLY, then had an RR of 72 miles?
 
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