EVSE Upgrade

[PV1]

Unless you build your own (OpenEVSE), the EVSEUpgrade option is the best bang for your buck. I think building your own may still end up being more expensive, I haven't priced it lately.

I've been using mine successfully for a year and a half on several voltage and amperage settings.

 

[acensor]

I'm looking to have this done to my USA 2012 EVSE. Is this still the most cost effective least expensive way to get a dual 120/240v portable EVSE? Has anything less expensive come to market?

AFAIK it's still by far the least expensive way.

And remember, if, as you say, you have the stock Mitsubish 2012 charger you're getting more than just upgrading it to be able to work on both 120 and 240 volts:
That original charger charges at only 8 amps. The upgraded charger even on 120 volts can by default charge at 12 amps. Because of some issues of there being some overhead loss in charging that 12 amp level on the upgraded charger results in charging almost twice as fast on 120volts as the original unit.
That alone was worth the cost of the upgrade to me.


In addition, the upgraded charger can be optionally set to charge (again we're for the moment talking about using it plugged into 120) at 6 or 8 amps. So if you really have the time and attention and concern you can really be kind to your battery and charge it at a slow 6amps.

Really the only bad thing I can say about the upgrade is you have to send your unit in and wait for it to come back. Unless maybe they've changed that policy and now have some loaner chargers to send out before you send yours in.

Now I'm curious:
As far as I know the last of the new 2012's were sold before the end of 2013.
So did you recently get a used 2012, or have you had your 2012 for a long time and are only now getting around to upgrading your charger?

Alex

 

[davidricardo86]

I'm glad to hear your upgraded EVSEs have been working fine all this time and its still the least expensive route. This gives me the confidence to go forward with mine.

http://www.lambertgm.com/details.cf...0D3-A92A-A1F0-5175461AF159862B&cfid=289455644

I just purchased a used 2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV SE Premium from Lambert GMC in Cuyahoga Falls, OH ($11,108.50 shipped, 594 miles) but it has not yet been delivered to me and the EVSE it comes with should be unmodified from what I presume. The Carfax states the previous owner was a "corporate vehicle" which was owned for two years. I assume this was a lease and owned by a corporation of some sort probably used as part of a fleet or maybe by some exec? Not sure on that last part, just some speculation with a little bit of background there.

Upgrading the EVSE is a win win for the cost of the upgrade, 120/240 volt and 6-12 amp adjustment! My college automotive professor always made it a point to charge batteries at the lowest possible voltage and amperage. He called it "low and slow," and it stuck with me ever since but I'm glad to at least have the option to go high and fast when needed. I do not mind the turnaround time as I have found a local free 235v/16a EVSE about 1.8 miles away from my house I plan on using during that time. I may also get away with plugging into a "Voltec" J1772 EVSE at Chevy dealership across the street from my gym after everyone there goes home and best of all they do not block the entrance so I can access it while I workout. I should be able to plug it in at work if need be, but otherwise I may have to drive my 2001 Toyota Echo for another week. No biggie.

Only thing I don't understand is how do you make the voltage and amperage adjustments? Does anyone have any pictures of their upgraded EVSE? What actually gets "upgraded" internally? Seems like a no brainer to have this done as its cheaper than buying replacement L1/L2 EVSE.

 

[PV1]

I'm guessing nearly everything inside is changed out for their stuff. Changing the voltage is simply a matter of which outlet you plug into. It's automatic. Changing the amperage is a neat trick. First, you'll need to form a paperclip jumper to make a connection between the two smallest pins in the J1772 connector. Plug this jumper into the connector, then plug the EVSE into the outlet you want to charge from. The red Fault light will start flashing rapidly. Now, you push the release button on the connector to count how many amps you want. Each flash of the green light on the EVSE indicates an amp. So, if you want to charge at 10 amps, push the button until you've counted 10 flashes of the green light. Once you reach the desired amp count, remove the jumper from the connector. The green light will flash how many amps (one flash per amp). If it is set correctly, push the release button once more and the EVSE will be ready to charge. Then simply plug into the i-MiEV. Unplugging the EVSE will cause it to default to its initial amperage settings. It doesn't remember your programming (new models may be different.)

If you want to charge at the default 12 amps (120 volts) or 13 amps (240 volts), simply plug in the EVSE.

I can post a quick video if you'd like.

I've found that level 1 charging is great for keeping the battery warm during the winter, but it may cause the battery to get too warm in the summertime. What I do is use level 1 in the winter unless I need the speed, and use level 2 in the summer with a delay so it starts around midnight. Having CaniOn or OVMS allows us to see battery temperature.

The general consensus for best battery life is to minimize time spent at a full charge, keep the temperature below 80 F (I heard 77 F is the magic number), and based on an article from batteryuniversity.com, use the lowest possible charge rate when the battery is below freezing (better to keep it warmer). The worst is sitting at full charge at a high temperature.

 

[acensor]

I'm guessing nearly everything inside is changed out for their stuff. .....Changing the voltage is simply a matter of which outlet you plug into. It's automatic. Changing the amperage is a neat trick. ........

I agree with everything PV1 so clearly says.

One note re the above:
In addition to the upgrade itself you will need TWO short adaptors:
One for plugging into standard 120 volt receptacle , one for plugging into the particular sort of 240v receptacle (and there are many flavors) you're going to put into _your_ garage. You can order those from the upgrader or probably put them together fairly easily at _slightly_ less cost from parts from the electrical section of a serious hardware store. I'd say order them when ordering the upgrade.

As for "Changing the amperage is a neat trick":
Well, I personally think it's a bit of a kludge (use a bent paper clip... really, now). So much so that I've never bothered using it at any speed other than default.
I really wish for the $300 plus they charge or even a bit more cash that they'd done something more friendly, such as put a hardware slide-click switch on the unit... even if it had to be epoxied outside the case.... reading "slow-medium-fast."

One other comment: It's my impression/guess that the upgrade folks are doing very little in the way of internal changes in the unit... some probably being just reprograming or replacing some PROMS. Could be wrong about that. I never asked them. Theirs would appear to me to be a very profitable nitch business. Don't get me wrong.... I appreciate them doing it, wish them continued luck*, and very glad I got their upgrade.

Alex
* I suspect eventually the market for their upgrade may dry up if EV makers get smart and competitive and start supplying more versatile stock chargers.

 

[JoeS]

As for "Changing the amperage is a neat trick":
Well, I personally think it's a bit of a kludge (use a bent paper clip... really, now). So much so that I've never bothered using it at any speed other than default. I really wish for the $300 plus they charge or even a bit more cash that they'd done something more friendly, such as put a hardware slide-click switch on the unit... even if it had to be epoxied outside the case.... reading "slow-medium-fast."

Alex, sorry to disagree with you, but I consider that EVSEUpgrade trick of programming the desired current using existing hardware as absolutely brilliant! The simplicity of pushing the existing lock button the number of times for the amperage number is, IMO, a stroke of genius! Adding a switch or any other hardware mod would invalidate the integrity of this tested and proven rugged device. The only thing I would now like is for the amperage setting to be stored and not lost when power is disconnected; nevertheless, like you, I typically use the maximum current setting which is the default, anyway. In addition to wanting to decrease the current because of marginal house wiring, I can see the cold-weather people wanting to slow down the charging to stretch it out all night long to keep the battery warm.

 

[Don]

My college automotive professor always made it a point to charge batteries at the lowest possible voltage and amperage. He called it "low and slow," and it stuck with me ever since but I'm glad to at least have the option to go high and fast when needed

What your professor told you is certainly true of lead acid technology batteries - They gas and lose water when charged rapidly and the plates can shed some of their material which can short out the bottom of the cells

Lithium Ion batteries can be 'slowly' charged at 1C and live a long, long time "1C" refers to charging them at their rated capacity, which for the cells in our cars would be about 50 amps. Even charging at 2 C or 3C is quite safe for most lithiums

Our car's 3 Kw charger running wide open doesn't quite charge them at 10 amps, or 1/5th C, which for a lithium cell is actually little more than a 'trickle charge' . . . . we don't have anything resembling a 'fast charge' unless you're talking about L3 charging and even that isn't all that 'fast', especially if you compare it to how a Tesla is quick charged

Recharging L1 on 120 VAC is actually a little less efficient than using L2 on 240 VAC maxxed out wide open - If you're looking for the most miles from the least electricity, that's the way to go . . . . but there are still many of us (myself included) who do a good bit of recharging using L1

Don

 

[jsantala]

You could also stick this kit inside the original EVSE box in the cable:

http://www.ev-power.eu/Connectors-Cabling-1-1/EVSE-kit-for-EV-charging-station.html

You'll need to remove the original electronics of course. Or, actually, the new board is so small and the contactor as well, that you might actually be able to leave the original bits inside too, disconnected naturally, just to be able to quickly go back to the original if needed.

 

[DonDakin]

Fantastic idea.


But it looks like there is no circuit to detect ground fault and shut down power.

Not sure how you could use the OEM brick to detect ground faults but the new circuit to control the pilot and the relay.

Could be an interesting project.

Don.....

 

[jsantala]

That's true. Even their slightly more expensive, but more feature rich EVSE doesn't seem to have that functionality:

http://www.ev-power.eu/EVCharge-Products/EVSE-Kit-V1-1-for-EV-charging-station-cable-Wallbox-kit-only.html

That one would work better, if you needed more that 16A.

On the other hand, one of these separate ground fault detecting devices cost next to nothing, if you need to be sure at home:

http://www.biltema.fi/fi/Rakentaminen/Sahko/Vikavirtakytkin/Vikavirtakytkin-2000030602/

 

[jsantala]

By the way, I had to change a part of my charging cable, so I tried whether my 2011 C-Zero would charge without the electronics. I connected the LNG wires from the J1772 cable directly to 230VAC mains. The charging light came on briefly together with the /!\ warning light, but the car wouldn't charge. So even though the very first i-MiEVs will charge without EVSE present, the newer ones do not. THis was just something I've been wanting to try for a while now.

I did put one of these on order:

http://www.ev-power.eu/Electric-Cars/EVSE-kit-for-EV-charging-station.html

I'll use it to have a EVSE inside to vehicle for slow 6-10A 230VAC charging when at work or at parking lots with Schukos for heating.

 

[acensor]

Back in 2013, i wrote...
"....Not even sure if for us it's worth the cost running 240 volts out to the garage. Maybe....."

Update FWIW:
We didn't run 240 out there. Turned out we had no easy option for doing so.
So been using the EVSE upgraded charger on 120 and defaukt 12.5 amps for nearly 3 years 15,000 miles now.

I think there might have been two occasions in that time when i might,ve liked to charge faster on 240.
In short, quite happy without 240 L2. Full charge (rare) about 19 hours.
Other's modes of use may very well strongly reccomenc faster chatge oltion

Also FWIW:
In 15,000 miles ....
One occasion of mild range anxiety... 70 mile round trip when drove a bit aakwardky slkw last 15 miles.
And recently one more serious when five miles from home on rainy evening it showed 5 miles range remaining :roll:
Luckily was near friend's house. And he was home.
Parked there and bummed ride home to fetch charger

Alex

 

[jray3]

Also FWIW:
And recently one more serious when five miles from home on rainy evening it showed 5 miles range remaining :roll:
Luckily was near friend's house. And he was home.
Parked there and bummed ride home to fetch charger
Alex

Awww, don't be scared of the turtle; he's a very friendly lil' critter. If the RR shows 5 miles remaining, you've got a good 11+ miles ahead of you. Canion shows that EVen after 50k miles, I've still got 10% charge when the turtle comes on. I've done a lot of turtle-riding, but never hit the involuntary shutdown and my battery seems plenty healthy.

Unless, of course you're like many EV pioneers, and live on a mountaintop next to JoeS...

 

[PV1]

I've had my EVSEUpgrade for 2 years now. It continues to be the most versatile unit available.

I have a switchable voltage outlet (one outlet that can provide 120 volts or 240 volts) that the unit plugs into in my garage. I run the cable under the door and store the plug in an old electrical box (I believe it was an air conditioner disconnect switch at one time). I back into my spot, so the plug and port are right next to each other, and I can control charging from inside the garage, which is handy because I charge level 1 in the winter and switch to level 2 for preheating.

For my portable rapid charger project, my plan is to use two high power EVSEUpgrade units and a splitter cable to power the charger when using a 14-50 outlet. The charger is made up of two Focus Electric on-board chargers that connect to the car by CHAdeMO.

 

[bennelson]

Hi everyone.
I have a question about the stock Level 1 charger, and I think this is the thread to ask it. In fact, I'm shocked that nobody else hasn't asked it yet.

Can you plug the stock Level 1 charger straight into a 240V outlet?

For the EVSE Upgrade, it gives you the option of increasing the the current of the charge, being able to run it on 12/240, and they put a plug on the end appropriate for a North American 240V twist lock connector. You can still use 120V, but you have to use a physical adapter.

So, what I am wondering is WHAT STOPS ME FROM GOING STRAIGHT TO 240V WITHOUT DOING THIS UPGRADE?

It seems to me that the upgrade is really a software solution, and then they physically put on a different plug on the end. In Europe and many other places, 240V is the standard used for household wiring. In the United States, we use 120V for household use and 240V for industry. Because so many devices are sold internationally, a large amount of electrics now are designed to run on EITHER 120V OR 240V, so one version can be sold anywhere. In fact, they are actually designed to run on a RANGE of voltage, usually something like 100-240V AC. They will also run on either 50 or 60 Hz, as those are the two different standard AC frequencies around the world. I can't imagine an international car company making a device that ONLY runs on 120V/60Hz.

HAS ANYONE SIMPLY PLUGGED IN THE CHARGER TO A 240V OUTLET?

I'd be willing to walk out to my garage right now to do that, except that it specifically says 120V on my charger. Nearly always, there's some fine print somewhere if a device can run on a range of voltages, and I didn't see that listed. The only reason that I can think of why the charger COULDN'T take 240V is if it used a transformer inside. But based on the weight, size, and shape of cord, it clearly doesn't use a transformer. I am not familiar enough with switching power supplies to know if there is any reason or not that they COULDN'T be used with 240V.

Would somebody kindly weigh in on this?

Just for the record, here's a photo of what it actually says on my Level 1 EVSE.

 

[wmcbrine]

Can you plug the stock Level 1 charger straight into a 240V outlet?

Well, if you have a (correctly wired) 4-prong outlet (like a NEMA 14-50) for your 240V, rather than a 3-prong (like a 6-50), then the appropriate adapter can take 120V from it. I realize that's not what you're asking, but I thought I should get it out of the way.

 

[bennelson]

For example, my electric motorcycle's charger(s) can all take 120 OR 240V, but they all have a 120V "Edison" style 15A 120V plug on them.

For my 1200 mile electric motorcycle trip, I built an adapter that let me have 3 240V connections, and 1 120V connection, all using standard female extension cord ends on them. I could plug in 3 chargers to 240V at the same time, and still have a 120V electric outlet for whatever else I wanted (emersion electric water heater for instant coffee and ramen noodles, mostly...)

 

[jsantala]

The charger in the car is probably the same for everyone everywhere around the world. That's my guess, anyway.

However, it might be that the stuff in the box in the cable might only handle 120V. It does have some electronics, relays and such.

So I'd get a charging cable which can do 110-250VAC 50-60Hz.

Or build your own: http://www.ev-power.eu/Electric-Cars/EVSE-kit-for-EV-charging-station.html

 

[PV1]

I would definitely not plug in the stock cable into a 240 volt outlet. You'll likely blow the power supply that powers the main board in the box.

 

[JoeS]

I suspect it's very minor, as Phil over at EVSEUpgrade.com was able to readily do it, I suspect at minimal expense.

Wouldn't be surprised if poking around the mynissanleaf.com forum finds a post of someone who took the EVSE apart and discusses it (it's my understanding that the Panasonic unit is the same for both the early Leafs and i-MiEVs).

To me, the biggest advantage of the EVSEUpgraded unit is the programmability of the EVSE, 6A-12A at 120vac, 6A-13A at 240vac, brilliantly implemented using a shorting plug (bent paperclip) and simply counting the number of times the lock is pressed. Default is 12A at 120vac and 13A at 240vac.

I suspect none of us was willing to risk damaging the EVSE by plugging it into 240vac.