D, ECO or B modes

[Aerowhatt]

D doesn't have enough Regen.

I wish it had none! If it was ONLY modulated by the first part of the brake pedal throw (it is now too), but had no regen at all letting off the go pedal, I would be very happy indeed. No longer a need to use N at all. The car would get better range in most all conditions this way too.

Aerowhatt

 

[JoeS]

…Lately, I did do some driving in B on some windy roads. Maybe we should call it (B)oost mode instead? :lol:

B is what I like to use in hilly/mountain driving. The car applies power (accelerates) identically in D and B. It's only their regen that's different. The problem with the high regen in B is that when hitting a downhill curve with a rough surface the regen abruptly turns off and ASC kicks in - very disconcerting. I appreciate Mitsubishi providing us with an ASC disable switch.

D doesn't have enough Regen.

I wish it had none! If it was ONLY modulated by the first part of the brake pedal throw (it is now too), but had no regen at all letting off the go pedal, I would be very happy indeed. No longer a need to use N at all….

AGREE, although I do like having four levels of speed retardation for controlling the speed on those long (multi-mile) downhills (without having to resort to braking).

 

[Aerowhatt]

AGREE, although I do like having four levels of speed retardation for controlling the speed on those long (multi-mile) downhills (without having to resort to braking).

I see your point certainly. I guess I don't understand the reluctance to move ones foot over to the brake pedal. The mountain driving here is quite steep, switchbacks with 15 - 20 mph turns going down. Regen in D is adequate to reduce the rate of accelerating due to the grade and then the regen in the first part of the brake pedal throw is very strong for slowing. Shouldn't one be hovering over the brake not the accel when descending steep grades around tight blind turns anyway??? I never use the friction brakes except when the rengen fades due to low speed (or some moron pulls out in front of me). Also if the regen shuts off due to rough pavement (I have had that happen too) then your foot is right where it should be, already on the brake pedal!

Like you said before, different strokes certainly. But some seem wiser than others (JMO)

Aerowhatt

 

[JoeS]

Aerowhatt, I suspect you and I are on the same page, as so much depends on the characteristics of the particular road.

With my Gen1 Honda Insight I had installed something called MIMA which gave me wonderful fingertip control (using a small joystick) over its electric motor: both accelerating (think electric supercharger) and decelerating (infinitely variable and fairly powerful regen control). Raising the foot to put on the brake really became a nuisance, as one's finger does a better job at modulating the speed with much less effort, IMO. On the i-MiEV, I continuously use our shift lever, and will probably be the first person to wear it out. Yes, the only "automatic" transmission car I've ever owned is the i-MiEV.

Mitsubishi did such a good job of seamlessly transitioning from regen to friction braking with the brake pedal that I don't "feel" when that occurs. Inasmuch as I usually only apply the brake when the car's speed gets below nine mph, it's a moot point.

 

[RobbW]

Mitsubishi did such a good job of seamlessly transitioning from regen to friction braking with the brake pedal that I don't "feel" when that occurs. Inasmuch as I usually only apply the brake when the car's speed gets below nine mph, it's a moot point.

This is the reason I prefer to "run the gates" and use the progressively more powerful regen in each drive mode rather than move my foot over to the brake pedal. I can never tell at what point the friction brakes engage. By taking my foot off the go-pedal and downshifting, I know for sure that I am only using regen braking.

 

[Aerowhatt]

Mitsubishi did such a good job of seamlessly transitioning from regen to friction braking with the brake pedal that I don't "feel" when that occurs. Inasmuch as I usually only apply the brake when the car's speed gets below nine mph, it's a moot point.

This is the reason I prefer to "run the gates" and use the progressively more powerful regen in each drive mode rather than move my foot over to the brake pedal. I can never tell at what point the friction brakes engage. By taking my foot off the go-pedal and downshifting, I know for sure that I am only using regen braking.

You might try shifting to N while rolling along at 30+mph. Then brake, it's all friction braking in N. Three or four of these in a row taught my muscle memory exactly where friction braking begins. It's a piece of cake to know when I'm into friction braking now. Just a thought

As an aside it's really simple and clever how they achieved such a smooth transition between regen and friction. If you put on the brakes lightly at speed it's all regen and regen available is dependent on motor RPM. As motor RPM drops off (slowing down) regen ramps down automatically smooth as silk. Because of years of driving, we don't even realize it but we add more brake pedal as this happens. It's semi automatic behavior to keep going deeper into the pedal throw to achieve or maintain the desired deceleration. There is no magic or complexity to it. At a certain point in the brake pedal throw you get to maximum regen if that isn't enough deceleration. Without consciously thinking about it experienced drivers add incrementally more pressure on the pedal automatically. ECO and B just transfer more of this (brake) signal to the throttle sensor by making it more sensitive through software.

Aerowhatt