Charging the car at public charging stations type 1 j1772.

[Slavik37]

Якщо існує проблема космічної несумісності між цими загальнодоступними EVSE та «триплетами» (I-MiEV, iOn та C-Zero), то я б запропонував вам використати адаптер, щоб увімкнути EVSE, до якого потім підключити pEVSE. Якщо ви не можете знайти його на місці, я буду радий виготовити та продати вам його. Надішліть мені лист, якщо хочете.

Ви хочете запропонувати мені адаптер для ввімкнення EVSE, до якого потім підключіть pEVSE, як на фото.

 

[MickeyS70]

You want to offer me an adaptor to turn on the EVSE, to which you then connect the pEVSE, as in the photo.

I take it all back, these adapters do exist

 

[Slavik37]

https://myimiev.com/threads/2012-peugeot-ion-in-ukraine-interesting-experience.5425/post-47444
According to this link, there is a similar problem with the car when connecting to EVSE.

 

[kiev]

Thanks for that, it is an issue on the EVSE side, not the car.

About the AC charger: it works perfect with home charger, but not with public chargers. And, as I know, in our country this is the problem with most similar cars, produced before 2015. I-MIEVs, Ions and CZeros of 2015 make and newer can charge with no problems. I think it is a problem with old charging stations, which were adjusted prior to charge Nissan Leaf that was wery popular in taxi services.

 

[MickeyS70]

Thanks for that, it is an issue on the EVSE side, not the car.

And yet Mitsu was able to overcome the EVSE the issue with newer triplets (OBC firmware update?)

There isn’t much to the communication protocol, I can’t see an 12V disconnect influencing the 1kHz PWM signal, however it could affect voltage levels just enough to get a charge session going.

The simple mod mentioned will stabilise the voltage levels on the CP line, worth a try imho..

 

[Slavik37]

Hello. I am switching the 10A DC/DC fuse, this allows charging on EVSE. The question is, will this switching not damage the DC/DC converter?

 

[kiev]

That makes me think that your OnBoard Charge Relay has a defect and is not working properly, or the EV-ECU pin that drives that relay has a problem.

Maybe the relay contacts are welded together or they are frosted over with residue and not longer make contact.

Putting your switch in-line has the effect of the "wake-up" signal normally provided thru the relay contacts.

Glad to hear it works as a temporary solution until you find the real culprit.

 

[MickeyS70]

Hello. I am switching the 10A DC/DC fuse, this allows charging on EVSE. The question is, will this switching not damage the DC/DC converter?

You’re interrupting the ‘always on’ 12V (14.4V) supply to the OBC with a mechanical switch that can induce a bouncing effect, not a good idea imho.

If you forget to enable the switch when driving, the DC/DC section may not work and all the low voltage power is coming off the 12V aux battery.

Better to put this extra switch between the fusible link and the OBC relay to avoid the issues above, but if you need to reset the OBC itself then this won’t work..