And from the Idaho National Lab testing at C/3 on a 2012 miev with 4550 miles in 2013, i don't see much energy left or available below about 308 pack volts (~3.5vpc) which is 80% depth of discharge. It falls off fast after the knee in the curve.
Another ideea for upgrade battery
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Seems that E63B can do Charge Max 31A that means 0.5C ( data sheet) compared with LEV50 150A
LEV50 confirm Max 40kw at ChaDeMo charger 40.000/3.5V/88 = 130A)
Hyundai Kona have max charge Max 77kwh at CCS2 and have 98s3p
https://ev-database.org/car/1423/Hyundai-Kona-Electric-64-kWh
77.000/98s = 785w/3p 785w/3.5v = 224A/3p = ~74A/cell. I'm doing wrong ?
This DataSheet say need to charge Max 32A that means X2 over max Amps charging
Indeed , in all calculated ones , E63B can't support standard 130A if I put them in 1p1s , only if I put them 1s2p if I use calculated of CCS 2 situation and not datasheet.
LEV50 confirm Max 40kw at ChaDeMo charger 40.000/3.5V/88 = 130A)
Hyundai Kona have max charge Max 77kwh at CCS2 and have 98s3p
https://ev-database.org/car/1423/Hyundai-Kona-Electric-64-kWh
77.000/98s = 785w/3p 785w/3.5v = 224A/3p = ~74A/cell. I'm doing wrong ?
This DataSheet say need to charge Max 32A that means X2 over max Amps charging
Indeed , in all calculated ones , E63B can't support standard 130A if I put them in 1p1s , only if I put them 1s2p if I use calculated of CCS 2 situation and not datasheet.
tomwoodruff
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I'm in Portland, Maine, and would be willing to spend $12k if I could get more than the 62k miles when new. Otherwise, not sure.
Have a look at below, the cells are able to handle high current situations (don’t forget, regen is also charging)
https://xebike.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/lg-e63datasheet.pdf
The biggest expense are the replacement cells ($5000??). While there a are may suppliers, the difficulty is to find one that can guarantee A grade CATL cells.
Removing the battery and replacing the cells can be done in a couple of days, add another one for installing and testing the CAN bridge but start to finish shouldn’t take longer than 5 days (all going well of course)
I’d say offering $12k should definitely get someone interested in helping you out, I’d do it myself if you weren’t that far away
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...oQFnoECBMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0a05R87yE9R-IwSAtzfwlY
Bike datasheet have E63 , and here is E63B datasheet. Perhaps is a different chemistry.
Bike datasheet have E63 , and here is E63B datasheet. Perhaps is a different chemistry.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...YQFnoECBoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2hORD7Vhy4jyS9eZ6FKbriThe biggest expense are the replacement cells ($5000??). While there a are may suppliers, the difficulty is to find one that can guarantee A grade CATL cells.
Removing the battery and replacing the cells can be done in a couple of days, add another one for installing and testing the CAN bridge but start to finish shouldn’t take longer than 5 days (all going well of course)
I’d say offering $12k should definitely get someone interested in helping you out, I’d do it myself if you weren’t that far away
~3500$ (+ shipping ? ) If this seller is genuine one and sell good cells.
Seems the name of cell is
Catl 3793
Edit : item unavailable
Inspired by this video
edit 2 : seems that shipping cost is same or higher then the cell.
What I can see 90% of sellers have "inquiry" at shipping cost, 5% bigger price then cells and 5% only some have equal or lower then cells. :/
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Years ago there was a company that did a booster pack for the i-miev, it was a 2 or 4kwh battery in the boot, they connected it to the HV system and it was a 48v configuration with a dc boost converter up to ~350v so that it put power into the hv system when the car was on and not fully charged. So it was like a bit of constant regen while the car was running. The pack would wait until the car was on then start up and add power - it wasnt outputting a high enough voltage to overcharge the main pack but would top it up as long as it could.
The effect on the dash was that the power gauge showed a bit of regen when the car wasnt moving (like the heater shows a bit of load) and the range estimation was correct since it just thought you were either a very efficient driver or always going down a long slow hill so it would show extra range taking in to account the extra pack in the boot. It had its own on board charger and an extra charge cable to charge it at home - no rapid charging of course.
It was quite neat and requiring minimal modification to the car as it just needs a HV feed which is under the boot floor and a signal that the car is running.
Cheers
The effect on the dash was that the power gauge showed a bit of regen when the car wasnt moving (like the heater shows a bit of load) and the range estimation was correct since it just thought you were either a very efficient driver or always going down a long slow hill so it would show extra range taking in to account the extra pack in the boot. It had its own on board charger and an extra charge cable to charge it at home - no rapid charging of course.
It was quite neat and requiring minimal modification to the car as it just needs a HV feed which is under the boot floor and a signal that the car is running.
Cheers
sounds like an Enginer kit, which was designed for the Prius. It seems upgrading the pack is more less straight forward, cell replacement; it's the silly BMS software seemingly a major hurdle, for me anyway
Yes, you can, but where are you getting the required 20+kW to sustain that charge power from?
Interesting video; yes you’re correct, he split 1S3P into 3S1P, however I gather he said that the seller cut the terminals for him, before he re-arranged them. Simple enough with just once block but a bit more effort required to make a 88S1P pack.
Might also be a good idea to bench test a few cells to get accurate charge/discharge curves (like @piev did) to optimise the Arduino program.
From same guy more view to connectors side. Indeed , seems not only thar cut terminals ( that is obvious and normal ) , but moved to different heights and this is not natural.
Edit .
After first minute, module is viewed with connector welded all 3 cells on same basbare. Seems is enough space to cut. A slightly problem is to isolate and BMS wires
Indeed , untill I don't buy a module, I only talk theoretical.
Edit2 : I didn't see the BMS wires in this kind of pack. :/ I know where they are but didn't see the connection where are they
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10% SoC (warning light only) or around 3V (warning light and power reduction) whatever comes first
