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Don’t forget, @Rational is using the tried and tested ODBLink LX dongle that works with all the verified triplet apps. As mentioned before (post #28), HobDrive is your best bet with ‘low cost’ dongles.

Might be nothing wrong with the TPMS as tyre pressure really drops in freezing temperatures, what do you measure?

It may be worth trying out below with your current dongle: https://myimiev.com/threads/evutil-a-new-tool-supporting-the-imiev.5712/ If that doesn’t work to get DTCs, then try using your current dongle with the paid (Android) version of HobDrive. The app is known to work with almost any...

Hello and welcome to the forum Yes, it seems that the SRS-ECU is preventing HV activation (see page 27 below) https://anyflip.com/cqfwu/chfh

It seems to be a ‘feature’ of the I-Miev (& clones) ETACS-ECU See below: http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2012/00/html/M100101520068500ENG.HTM

yes, works fine on mine…

Well done, just out of curiosity, have you ever followed the original cable that connects the radio, back into the depths of the car? I did and was surprised to find it plugged into an ISO connector that turned out to be plug & play with my new head unit??

There is a good chance that that idea wouldn’t work anyway; I hope your research can dispel this as another myth, but it’s thought that the VIN can only be written once (if it is blank) and not be changed afterwards.. This limitation doesn’t seem to apply to the other ECUs, so if it’s not...

Don’t think the BMU is VIN coded, otherwise below would not have worked: https://myimiev.com/threads/miev-with-c-zero-parts.5521/ Afaik VIN programming is only required for ETACS-ECU, EV-ECU and MCU..

I think I came across a packing list for a battery replacement (can’t find it anymore) that listed FW update CDs but no actual BMU HW…

Yes, the BMU’s HW doesn’t seem to have changed over the years, i.e. warranty pack replacements kept the BMU HW, just updated the FW to make it LEV50N compatible.

Sorry, I misunderstood, but why go to all this trouble if you could just swap the BMU (after moving the 80 LEV50N cells into the old pack)?

Done

You mean each cell has 3.7V? With the orange service disconnect removed you measure only half the battery voltage. It sounds like the HV pack has degraded cells that have a low capacity and or drop their level under 3V when under heavy load. Given the age and mileage of the car a 40km range...

That’s correct, afaik this functionality will only transfer/restore the current battery capacity (SoH), all other parameters are part of the configuration file. As mentioned previously, running a LEV50 pack with a 80cell BMU that’s using LEV50N parameters can have disastrous consequences...

There is no need to cross-reference this data, these values are just used to calculate the battery capacity based on age and usage (mileage). It gets you in the ball park though and should then allow the ‘native calibration’ to do the fine adjustments over time. You need MUT/Diagbox to enter...

Isn’t this the other way around? Btw a local 2018 LEV50N pack (80 cells) should have way more capacity than 34Ah and therefore be a lot closer to the 8 40Ah cells from China. If you mean 10x 8 cell modules, then yes, that should work, there may be a mod required for the battery fan iirc. Check...

Just curious, have you actually ever done a HV battery swap on a triplet?

P1B30 actually means “Mismatch in the number of cells EV-ECU and BMU detect” It’s therefore highly probable that the presence of this DTC prevents the high voltage circuit to go active, (hence car won’t go READY) and not any potential issues (CMU faults) with the 16kWh pack.

CAN is data communication, you just need a wire that changes to 12V when the lights are on, not sure if post #6 is relevant for your car but it’s a good start..