Recent content by BlindMoose

Ok, thanks for your reply. I think this is going to be beyond my abilities. I was hoping for something a little simpler, like for instance temporarily wiring out some connections. I have already done the P1A15 resistor bodge in the MCU. Interestingly, I managed that without removing from the...

So did you get an answer to your " you could put a CAN bridge between the CMU/BMU to mask the low cells and start charging it, " request, that doesn't involve removing the traction battery pack. Is it just a simple case of temporarily wiring out the sensors, or what. ?

Maybe I'm being thick here, but surely the Vin can be changed by software. Otherwise if an MCU was destroyed, and a newly manufacture MCU obtained. The car would have to be junked, because the new MCU was not programmable. :?:

Having trawled through German I-miev sites, and Russian ones as well as English ones. The most common reason for the P1A15 fault, where the vehicle cannot be used is Extended Downtime. It's almost as if there is some software on some rom somewhere, that looses its ability to set the voltage...

Unfortunately not. Presumably it shows there is nothing wrong with those two circuits. As you probably know, mine is currently dead. I did get 20 days of use by swapping the relays for the headlight ones, but currently the same permanent fault.

Hi Noobe. Ok, next up is to see if the DC/DC charger is working. ( the big box to the left of the MCU where you checked the main fuse) See if the car will take a charge, using the mains charging brick.

Right, so stripped down the gearbox selector. Not to bad inside, but cleaned it up anyway, and the plug contacts (they were spotless) Reinstalled it back onto car, and adjusted and lubricated linkage. All works nice a smoothly now. Except of course the car still won't go into ready. :?

Disaster. The car is back to, not going into ready. Cant clear the P1A15 error now. As I try to clear it the yellow icar lamp immediately comes back on. It's now only possible to clear it, provided I clear the faults in ETAC, IP & KOS systems faults first. As an aside, I pulled both E & F...

So 18 days later and the fault has come back again. The only thing I have done differently, is stop the car, and turn it off in gear. Selected P and the P1A15 fault returned, when I tried to start it. So left it in P released the handbrake, rocked the car on the locking pawl. Cleared the code...

@Kiev Sounds to me like they are a manufacturer, and don't supply the public. So probably need to find a stockist / retailer instead. I will send an enquiry to my friends Japanese pen-pal, and see if she can provide an answer.

@Kiev Thanks for that. Shame you've had no response from NP. I have a friend who has a pen-pal that lives in Japan. Would you like me 2c if I can get her 2 try and find out about the hybrid board?

With trepidation, I decided to run an experiment with the relays. So Pulled relay E and tried to start car. The instrument panel displays similar to the P1A15 error with the Yellow icar lamp on, and won't go into ready. Also throws fault codes P1B2B &U1111. So replaced E and pulled relay F...

So this is the under bonnet fusebox with relays. The legend indicates that fuse 7 &10 deals with the motor, and Relays E & F the same. When i removed the relays ( relay removal tool required, as very tight) they showed signs of oxidisation. Well they are 10 years old on my car. Cleaned the...

Ok. Following on from removing all the fuses in the internal and under bonnet housings, and cleaning the contacts, and re-inserting them, Nothing has worked. Also removed copious multiway connectors, and sprayed contact cleaner liberally about. Still no joy. So decided to attack the Relays in...

@Kiev So do you think this is a replacement/swap-out pcb, for the existing hybrid board ?