Audio Aux Cable Installed and Working!

Fellow i-MiEVers!

Even though I have the OEM USB connector installed, I also wanted to have the option to connect my radio to any device that has a standard 3.5 mm mini jack. My radio has the Aux function supported by pressing and holding the CD button. I finally figured out which connectors to use that supplies the audio for the Aux function. Not sure if the L & R polarity is correct, but it's working. Unfortunately, there was no plastic connector to insert the wires in and I had to just insert them onto the blades. I was worried about them shorting the adjacent blades, but it looked like it cleared adequately even if I moved the wires around. Yeah, not very clean but good enough for a temporary solution. Standard disclaimers apply...

The radio, by the way, is the higher powered 6 speaker SE radio (not the touch screen). I would like to find the correct connector for this and do it right. Anyone know of a source?



I cut a small round notch on the lower bottom of the plastic back cover. Don't cut the notch at the very bottom of the cover because there is an obstruction behind it. I used a cable tie to prevent the cable from being pulled out too far.



The part I used was a Mitsubishi MZ360136EX and it has a "coil box" on the wire which I imagine is some sort of choke to reduce noise. This is not an i-MiEV part. I think it's listed for an Outlander/Lancer. I don't think an i-MiEV part exists. Bought it for $44.39 + shipping from R.C. Hill Mitsubishi. List is $58.95. I found it listed for $39.54 at MitsubishiPartsPeople.com but I didn't buy it from them (discovered it too late). I imagine you could rig up a standard cable and save even more money.

It was a fairly easy job. The half moon plastic part above/behind the radio display just snaps off exposing two phillips screws. After the two screws are removed (don't drop them), the radio slides out easily. The bottom "console" just snaps off. Also the back panel comes off easily for drilling the hole (if that's how you want to do it). Repeat, don't put the hole on the very bottom. If you want to disconnect the radio to get a better look, remove the antenna cable last. And when reconnecting, insert the antenna first. I read that the antenna provides the ground to the radio. You will lose your clock settings and radio presets if you disconnect your battery and/or the radio connectors. No, I didn't disconnect the battery. More disclaimers...

So now I have a fully featured sound system with radio, CD player, USB and Aux mini-jack sources! Have fun! -John

Great find--I have really been wanting the AUX on the standard radio to hook up a Sirius portable receiver. Unfortunately I took out the standard radio and replaced it with a Mitsubishi NAV radio. It has a AUX input on the back (mini DIN) but no function on the touchscreen to activate it. This same receiver in other applications show a AUX "button" but not on the I-MiEV. As far as the standard radio is concerned, it makes you wonder what all the other pins are for :?:

siai47 said:

... it makes you wonder what all the other pins are for :?:

Click to expand...

Yeah, great job "shifttrans"! The other pins are likely for a CD changer. My Mazda 3 had similar fittings for a CD changer. I believe both radios (the non-navi and the Mazda 3) are made by Panasonic.

siai47 said:

...wonder what all the other pins are for.

Click to expand...

HOW TO START SPEAKER CONNECTION CHECK MODE
Enter the speaker connection check mode according to the following steps:

1.Turn the electric motor switch to the "ACC" or "ON" position and switch off the radio and CD player.
2.Press the following buttons in that order within sixty seconds from step (1).
(1) CD/TRACK DOWN button
(2) SEEK DOWN button
(3) SEEK UP button
(4) CD/TRACK UP button
. . .
SPEAKER CONNECTION CHECK MODE
With the speaker connection check mode, the connection status of each speaker can be checked based on the sound output from each speaker. The procedure is as follows.

1. At the same time with the start of speaker check mode, the sound for speaker connection check is output from the front door speaker (LH) and tweeter (LH).
2. Press the CD/TRACK UP button to switch the sound output for speaker connection check from the front door speaker (RH) to the tweeter (RH).


AUDIO ERROR CODES
If the radio and CD player detects any malfunction in itself or the inserted CD, the error codes below will be shown on the display.

E Power supply error / Communication error / Other error
This error code will be displayed if the internal error is detected in the radio and CD player. Replace the radio and CD player.
E 01 Focus error
E 02 Abnormal disc
E 01 and E 02 error codes will be shown if there is any problem with the CD or there is excessive vibration on the vehicle. If the error codes are not displayed when the vehicle is stopped and another CD is inserted, there is a problem with the CD. Check if there is any of the following problems with the CD.
Contamination, scratch, or deformation
Formation of moisture or grease
If the error code does not disappear even when the normal CD is inserted, oil film or condensation may be generated inside the radio and CD player. Clean the inside of the radio and CD player, and check that no error codes are displayed.

E 03 Mechanical error. This error code will be shown if there is any internal mechanical or electrical problem in the radio and CD player. Replace the radio and CD player check that no error codes are shown.
E HOT Protection against high temperature. If the internal temperature is extremely high, this error code will be shown. Turn off the radio and CD player and wait until they cool down. Wait for a while, and then turn on the unit again. Check that the same error does not appear.

Sweet. The ES radio has the aux function, as well.

Now to get the clock to 12 hour mode.

http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mitsubishi-outlander-10/mp3-player-wiring-outie-ls-32790/

This is from an Outlander. The pinout is different on our radio, but the C15 connector might work.

I just did this same job but soldered wires to pins and zip tied wire lead to radio toavoid pulling soldered wires off of pins. I just used a $5 3.5 mm extension and cut one end off to expose the three wires and it works great. thanks for this find!!!
I would post a pic of 3.5 mm ext but cant figure out how to post a pic!

Glad this is working for some of you! Still need to find that connector. I saw that C15 connector but what we need is a similar looking 22 pin connector. The C15 is 18 pins. Maybe the source will be Panasonic?

To post photos, I use a round-about process. Created a Flicker account and posted the photos there. I then figured out how to copy the link to that photo. Click on the 'Img' button and insert the link. Does anyone have a link to some good instructions?

-John

Here's Mule2500's soldering solution (sent to me via email). Works and cheap!





Thanks Tom! -John

Thanks to these great instructions I now have an AUX jack which used to add a Bluetooth car kit. Yay!!!! I used a male to female 3.5 mm audio cable, cut off the male end, attached clips and connected them to the pins as shown on the photo. Then connected the Kinivo Bluetooth kit http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. All in for less than $50

I would reiterate that it is easy to remove the panel and stereo, I removed the stereo connections to make it easier to access the pins. You should disconnect the larger white cable connector first and reconnect it last to ensure power is isolated during the disconnect and reconnect.

I had to reprogram the clock, I also forgot you need to hold the CD button to get to the AUX option.

I also had the drivers door open during testing of the audio and thought I had a problem because the left sound was overpowering the right side, closing the door got the sound balanced.

Thanks again to the folks who put this up.

John wrote --
" I finally figured out which connectors to use that supplies the audio for the Aux function. "

I think I had that figured out a while back but didn't have the guts to try what you did.
And my wife was more than happy with using a Bluetooth Bluetooth-to-FM converter to get the iPad to play through the radio.
But I'd prefer the hard wire standard jack you have, and now may try it.
Thanks!

shifttrans said:

Fellow i-MiEVers!

The part I used was a Mitsubishi MZ360136EX and it has a "coil box" on the wire which I imagine is some sort of choke to reduce noise. This is not an i-MiEV part. I think it's listed for an Outlander/Lancer. I don't think an i-MiEV part exists. Bought it for $44.39 + shipping from R.C. Hill Mitsubishi. List is $58.95. I found it listed for $39.54 at MitsubishiPartsPeople.com but I didn't buy it from them (discovered it too late). I imagine you could rig up a standard cable and save even more money.

It was a fairly easy job. The half moon plastic part above/behind the radio display just snaps off exposing two phillips screws. After the two screws are removed (don't drop them), the radio slides out easily. The bottom "console" just snaps off. Also the back panel comes off easily for drilling the hole (if that's how you want to do it). Repeat, don't put the hole on the very bottom. If you want to disconnect the radio to get a better look, remove the antenna cable last. And when reconnecting, insert the antenna first. I read that the antenna provides the ground to the radio. You will lose your clock settings and radio presets if you disconnect your battery and/or the radio connectors. No, I didn't disconnect the battery. More disclaimers...

So now I have a fully featured sound system with radio, CD player, USB and Aux mini-jack sources! Have fun! -John

Click to expand...

Just got mine hooked up! I used the cord from a broken pair of ear buds and soldered the wires into speaker connectors that I had to squish a bit for them to fit. If you're handy, don't buy the official cable. The choke is not needed.

By the way, your polarity is backwards. Right channel is above the left channel. Ground is correct.

A few things I've noticed. The "left" channel acts as a mono input. The left channel sends audio to both sides of the car, but the right channel is only on the right side. I'm wondering if this is just a mono input, and there is a true left channel somewhere. Also, I think one of my connectors is using the wrong wire on the cable. I have some weird noise cancelling effect going on. The positions on the radio pins seem correct.

Does anyone else notice lead vocals only coming from one side, or 2 channel sound (both left and right) with only having left channel hooked up (bottom left pin, opposite of ground)?

shifttrans said:

Fellow i-MiEVers!

Even though I have the OEM USB connector installed, I also wanted to have the option to connect my radio to any device that has a standard 3.5 mm mini jack. My radio has the Aux function supported by pressing and holding the CD button. I finally figured out which connectors to use that supplies the audio for the Aux function. Not sure if the L & R polarity is correct, but it's working. Unfortunately, there was no plastic connector to insert the wires in and I had to just insert them onto the blades. I was worried about them shorting the adjacent blades, but it looked like it cleared adequately even if I moved the wires around. Yeah, not very clean but good enough for a temporary solution. Standard disclaimers apply...

The radio, by the way, is the higher powered 6 speaker SE radio (not the touch screen). I would like to find the correct connector for this and do it right. Anyone know of a source?

I cut a small round notch on the lower bottom of the plastic back cover. Don't cut the notch at the very bottom of the cover because there is an obstruction behind it. I used a cable tie to prevent the cable from being pulled out too far.

The part I used was a Mitsubishi MZ360136EX and it has a "coil box" on the wire which I imagine is some sort of choke to reduce noise. This is not an i-MiEV part. I think it's listed for an Outlander/Lancer. I don't think an i-MiEV part exists. Bought it for $44.39 + shipping from R.C. Hill Mitsubishi. List is $58.95. I found it listed for $39.54 at MitsubishiPartsPeople.com but I didn't buy it from them (discovered it too late). I imagine you could rig up a standard cable and save even more money.
-John

Click to expand...

I wonder if this EVEN cheaper part might not be as good or better?
http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-2003-2012-Factory-Auxillary-Adatper/dp/B008219OQ0
iSimple IS335 Dash Mountable Auxiliary Input Adapter
Buy new: $11.99
Factory Radio must be "AUX" Capable
•Compatible With Select Mitsubishi Models 2003-2012
•3 Ft Long Cable
•Replaces Mitsubishi MZ360135EX
•Full Installation Directions Available Via Email Upon Request

Directions also available at --
http://www.mitsupartsworld.com/Installation/MZ360136EX_LANCER_PG1.pdf

Alex

The directions pdf link show to connect to pins 6,14,15 which conflicts with the 1st posts. Maybe that's why the sound had issues?

acensor said:

Directions also available at --
http://www.mitsupartsworld.com/Installation/MZ360136EX_LANCER_PG1.pdf

Alex

Click to expand...

What's strange is, I switched the left and right channels, and it sounds much better now.

Maybe there is merit to the choke box after all.

acensor said:

I wonder if this EVEN cheaper part might not be as good or better?
http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-2003-2012-Factory-Auxillary-Adatper/dp/B008219OQ0
iSimple IS335 Dash Mountable Auxiliary Input Adapter
Buy new: $11.99
Factory Radio must be "AUX" Capable
•Compatible With Select Mitsubishi Models 2003-2012
•3 Ft Long Cable
•Replaces Mitsubishi MZ360135EX
•Full Installation Directions Available Via Email Upon Request

Directions also available at --
http://www.mitsupartsworld.com/Installation/MZ360136EX_LANCER_PG1.pdf

Alex

Click to expand...

Just ordered one. Will let you guys know if it works.

What I like about that Amazon adapter is it's easy to add a filter in the middle. I wonder if we need it since there is no spark plug noise.

Here is a good filter option if needed:
BOSS Audio B25N Ground Loop Isolator Noise Filter
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-B25N-Gr...8&qid=1408634334&sr=1-1&keywords=audio+filter

Thanks for the post about adding an AUX plug. I'm getting my second iMiev tomorrow and the dealership has promised me an AUX input. Now if they try to back-pedal, I can send them to this forum. I need the AUX in for my Audible books. Using an FM transmitter hook-up has been a big irritation for the last 18 months. I'll be leasing a bright blue 2014 iMiev and giving up my raspberry 2012.

I guess we'll see how good your dealer is if they give you an actual AUX in and not the USB option. :lol:

Welcome to the forum.