Lic wrote:I used diagnostic software and made video of what is going on after turning key to ready position. I left link for video here earlier.
Ok, that would do it! Sorry, I somehow missed the video links earlier.
It seemed to get to 338 V, which is only 12 V short of the battery voltage of 350 V, and is 97% of the way there. You won't get a lot better than that, it seems to me. But then it plummets to 70 V before the timeout and the main positive contactor never comes on. I note that the contactor status flags sometimes lag, e.g. there was over 200 V on the capacitor while the negative contactor was still listed as "off" (which is of course impossible). So perhaps the exact timing and sequence of events can't be totally trusted. But the fact that it did get to 338 V at one point, and was at 70 V on the next sample, suggests that something is draining the capacitor before the capacitor is declared charged.
I wonder how they prevent the DC-DC from using any charge (apart from charging its own capacitors), and whether that delay (from initial power-on to actively drawing power) could be too short. You might be able to test this theory by temporarily removing the combined DC-DC and OBC 20 A fuse; at least it would isolate the problem to either the DC-DC or OBC, or something else (e.g. motor controller, flashover, air conditioner, heater, one of the battery contactors).
BTW, what diagnostic software is that? (Pardon my ignorance there).