Why is everything coming on when hook up charged 12v battery

[floridamiev]

… that depends on how much $$$ you want to spend, if it’s a faulty OBC the dealer will just replace it, DIY repair is way cheaper if you have the skills to do it, for guidance check out below

https://myimiev.com/threads/the-troubleshooting-and-repair-for-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/

They told me that they think it is the module above the big battery. (Pcm) i think they said but they are not sure. Estimated cost $4000. I highly doubt this as the car only has 14,000 miles. Do you know approx how much it is to replace an on board charger and where it is?

 

[floridamiev]

That’s likely a blown MCU fuse for the on-board charger. The red battery light means the 12 volt battery isn’t charging, so better keep a trickle charger on the 12 volt battery and not drive the car right now (or just disconnect the 12 volt).

In all likelihood, this is your original problem and all the shenanigans with the 12 volt battery were symptoms.

 

[floridamiev]

They told me that they think it is the module above the big battery. (Pcm) i think they said but they are not sure. Estimated cost $4000. I highly doubt this as the car only has 14,000 miles. Do you know approx how much it is to replace an on board charger and where it is?

 

[PV1]

The charger is under the floor behind the rear seats. Open the rear hatch, lift up the carpet, and remove the metal cover. It’s the box on the left side near the coolant reservoir.

Mitsubishi’s insane pricing for replacement parts is why there’s a detailed thread on repairing the charger, and also why existing cars are getting parted out.

 

[floridamiev]

I found this letter from Mitsubishi online that described the problem with this part and extended the 2012 imiev warranty on this part for 10 years. Unfortunately i was not notified of this, when i bought the car, I had a charging problem and thought it was the external charger. At that time it was still under this warranty. If i had known, it could have been resolved for free.

 

[kiev]

They should have sent it out to whoever was the owner of record as of that data, but it doesn't always work out. i have gotten notices for other cars and OEMs about recalls. It's unfortunate for you, however we have been able to troubleshoot and repair lots of these OBC over the air with online help.

Even if you don't solder you can remove the board leaving the OBC in place, and take it to a cell phone or tv repair shop and they solder and fix it. You can do it, we can help.

 

[floridamiev]

Thank you, i cannot do much in the way of auto work but i can find help. Just spoke to service guy at mits dealer again and he said that it is the on board charger. I said i know, did he open it up to see if it was a bad capacitor?He got flustered and said that he didnt know. Any more questions I should ask when i go to get the car back?

 

[floridamiev]

The charger is under the floor behind the rear seats. Open the rear hatch, lift up the carpet, and remove the metal cover. It’s the box on the left side near the coolant reservoir.

Mitsubishi’s insane pricing for replacement parts is why there’s a detailed thread on repairing the charger, and also why existing cars are getting parted out.

What do you need to do before this to make sure it is safe to work on apart from disconnecting the 12 v battery?

 

[coulomb]

What do you need to do before this to make sure it is safe to work on apart from disconnecting the 12 v battery?

You need to remove the mid-pack disconnect. It's unfortunately not easy to get to, in Australia it's under the passenger's (left) seat.

IF you decide to remove the whole on-board charger from the car, you may want to pinch shut the coolant pipes, to minimise fluid loss.

 

[floridamiev]

You need to remove the mid-pack disconnect. It's unfortunately not easy to get to, in Australia it's under the passenger's (left) seat.

IF you decide to remove the whole on-board charger from the car, you may want to pinch shut the coolant pipes, to minimise fluid loss.

Ok. Thanks.

 

[kiev]

PM sent, check your forum inbox

 

[floridamiev]

[Mod edit] Copied over here from PM

Hi Kiev, we spoke a while back about my car not charging and not wanting the dealer to fix it, so a local mechanic agreed to get the card out for me. He found two small boxes that had melted but we are not sure what these are, he posted them on my page. Wanted to find out what they are called, and where to look for new ones please.

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[kiev]

Click on the search tab and put in "Troubleshooting (OBC) thread" in the search box, and "kiev" in the member box, hit search button. There is thread with that in the title.

[mod edit, copied over from PM]
Those are safety capacitors on the AC Input section. One in the EMI filter box on top, the other inside the OBC on the power board. Should be able to de-solder and replace.

The OBC would function without the EMI filter box. It seems to be an additional filtering added externally as there is the same circuit inside the OBC.

Also check the AC input portion located on the top board in the OBC. There is some lightning surge arrestors and transient suppressors on that board from where the AC enters across to where it drops down to the bottom board.

 

[floridamiev]

from PM:
if we remove the other filter element box what should i do with the wires? should i scrape out all of the potting and remove the heat sync from the back of the board?

i have contacted some repair places some ignore me and one told me that was above their capability. could i send it to you?

@kiev reply:
You can send those boards to me and i can put in new capacitors. i can make measurements of other components to try to rule out other damage, but i don't have a way to test that the boards will charge a car--you would have to reinstall the boards and try to charge to verify they work.

Recent activity after replacing capacitors:
@floridamiev sent PM:
Hi there. After all your hard work, board went back in and all looked good. Plugged in overnight but didnt charge, so assuming rest of board was messed up. Any suggestions? Or should i just sell the car for parts? I believe main battery is good. The mechanic gave up!

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[kiev]

Moving from PM to forum thread:

Sorry to hear that. Does the car start to READY? Are there any other weird or odd things happening in READY mode? What does the voltage of the 12V battery do before and after starting?

If those are the latest DTCs, then it is indicating an issue with the DC/DC converter which is a circuit board in the lower plenum of the OBC unit. The HV power lines for it come from the OBC board over in the far left corner, on the large pink and blue wires with ring lugs that screw to the OBC terminals. They are somewhat hidden when laying all those faston lug wires into place, but i assume those were connected properly?

The other code is the U1111 which indicates that some CAN Buss signal is missing, which is usually due to either a wiring harness damage, connector contact corrosion, or low 12V supply voltage to some ecu.

Nothing here implicates the OBC except if the CAN Buss signal from the OBC to the EV-ECU were missing/damaged, but if so then it would have registered an OBC DTC.

When i looked back at the posts about your car it was showing strange behavior when the 12V was connected all the dash lamps would light up. Was that ever resolved?

Was the large black connector with the fat white wire coming off the "front" side of the OBC possibly disconnected, or in need of inspection? That is the output of the DCDC that runs up to charge the 12V battery. There is a large fusible link/fuse on the positive terminal of the 12V underneath that big red cover, maybe check all those fuses.

What do you see and hear when you plug in the EVSE handle to AC charge the car? Relays and contactors clacking, lamp on the dash blink, leds on the EVSE, etc? Does it try to start a session but then clacks off after a short time, or never tries to start, etc?

Have you removed the back seat and inspected the wiring harnesses and connectors for damage, etc. that is where the EV-ECU resides and controls the DCDC converter.