The Troubleshooting and Repair for On-board Charger (OBC) Thread

[kiev]

PM from @Robert, i only respond to posts in this thread so that everyone can benefit:

@Robert sent this: i have a 2011 peugeot i-on and i have an error (that yellow light with a car and a exclamation). anyway... the car don't start and don't charge. i tried to peugeot representation and they say don't have the software for this car anymore because is too old. i also tried with my teter (is a delphi model a cheaper one) but this tester can't interogate this car. if you can help me to tell me wich is the cheaper tester who i can use for this car to can see all the errors.

is this the same car that was previously having charging problems that you posted here, #993?

Not starting to READY is a different issue than the OBC, but what is the age and condition of the 12V battery?

It's quite strange that the scan tool used by the dealership can't read the codes. Mitsubishi uses the MUT 3, Peugeot and Citroen have the Lexia 3 with Diagbox.

i use an iCarsoft i909 scan tool for the mitsubishi. These use the Launch X431 chipset and are hardwired to just plug in and read the codes--no need for a phone app or blueteeth or wifi. There is likely one for the Peugeot and Citroen too.

i assume that you previously fixed the car and got it running and charging--what did you end up changing/repairing to fix it? Maybe start from there to figure out what might have happened.

 

[kiev]

@Robert Rowe sent PM,
This picture of before repaired.

and

I opened it today. We have discussed that it was serviced in Bulgaria. I will include new photos of new parts What should I check on waffle plate connections Solders -They look ok to me.

/end

The AC relay is now the orange rectangular device; the other dark rectangle is a capacitor.

 

[Robert Rowe]

I wish I could find a simple connection problem. I’m not planning on trying any more de - solder. I can put back together an offer to sell it.
I think the service done has it working but a bad AC to 12v connect problem or computer re set problem. I do not have the tools or code readers to keep on
So. Nice 2012 MiEV for sale. Dc
charges. Runs great.
Rob.

 

[kiev]

it was serviced in Bulgaria.

Did you send the entire unit or just the power board?

 

[Robert Rowe]

Did you send the entire unit or just the power board?

I sent the entire unit Removed coolant. Packed up 27 lb Yes.
Now I need to say
I re assembled all and electro spray cleaned CN. 101 on top board Several times. I now have it AC charging.
It seems to have been a pin connector in plug unit.

 

[Robert Rowe]

This is what I cleaned with CRC. Electro contact cleaner. Worked contact several sprays.
Now AC charge working !!!!

 

[kiev]

That is a great catch to find and solve that problem, thanks for sharing your finding.

Your persistence and endeavor to persevere has paid off and we are glad to hear it.

As far as i know, it's a first time to find that connector as a problem, so i guess it just shows that nothing can be overlooked when hunting down issues of the OBC.

Usually there is a zip cable tie on that connector, but it had to be removed for servicing the boards.

 

[Robert Rowe]

Follow up. I have driven it about thirty miles. Came home and charged again with no problem. Very happy in North Fl.
Note: charge level on left full bars but the. Guess o meter is still reading 000000. I suppose it is re calculating. But no guess coming up , I’ll keep checking
Thank you Kiev and forum .

 

[MickeyS70]

Guess o meter is still reading 000000. I suppose it is re calculating. But no guess coming up

That doesn’t sound right, it might not be right but it should give you an estimate, flick trough the different displays, does it show mileage, brightness, service etc?

 

[Robert Rowe]

It shows milage and trip a / b. Then shows 0000. And-dash light dimmer. Nothing else

 

[Robert Rowe]

Just blank

 

[MickeyS70]

Just blank

That seems to be the service counter, not GOM..

 

[Robert Rowe]

No other display comes up. Key off or on .
Owners manual says may reset Or dealer code reader unit reset. Not hurting operation. Drove again and charged last night ok

 

[MickeyS70]

No other display comes up. Key off or on .
Owners manual says may reset Or dealer code reader unit reset. Not hurting operation.

Strange, did you try disconnecting the 12aux for a few minutes to do a “hard reset”?

 

[ro0ter]

Hello coulomb, kiev, skylogger, piev, everybody else who is willing to lend us a neuron or two...

One of my friends has a Citroen C-Zero from 2012... He's retired, but worked as an electrician his entire life. Retired = really no money for replacing the unit. No, I still have 20+years until I'm off work. I'm trying to do a good deed by helping out. We're in Switzerland, the car is in Aargau.

I'm an electronic hobbyist, I've repaired several car remote keys and few car units (Mercedes, Audi) for friends. I have many tols, lots of microcontrollers and many projects in progress or already done. except a good microscope. yes, I also have a thermal camera.

I've read through this forum for the past few weeks and my lonely neuron started hurting. I know I haven't even started yet with measuring and troubleshooting.. but it's next on Baywatch.

The problem: 2012 Citroen C-Zero not charging either from fast charge or from AC. The car owner drove to a fast charger but his car wouldn't charge, so then he drove home only to find out that the AC charger doesn't charge either. The green charging led on the power brick only blinks green and doesn't stay on and the car HUD doesn't show any signs of charging. The drive battery is now discharged. Otherwise in very good condition (after 11 !!!! years). The 12v battery is fine. It's been on life support ever since the car is suffering, as the DRL are always on and we fought a lot with the diagnose (yes, I have only realized now that we need a MUT... Will try to call on the local automobile club, maybe someone will help). So we have no DTCs.. Sadly, the local Citroen dealer is of no help.

We've looked inside the BCM (Battery Charging Module) but we found no blown capacitors in neither the EMI filter doghouse nor in the doghouse above the wafer plate. All the fuses are fine, even the one in the motor controlling unit, even the LittleFuse SMD one below the top BCM board.

There were indeed some skorch marks on the BCM metal cap (the wires have "shadowed" the skorch marks, I tend to believe it's just HV and dust), but it's exactly above the wires and fat inductors (towards the motor control unit). There's nothing fried (afaik/see). There is however a persistent electronics smell, so I suppose THERE MUST actually be something fried, it's just that we haven't found it yet.

The relays under the hood were all tested. No problem there.

The labels of the BCM and MCU attached.
I can attach some more photos, but you already have them all on this forum .

Thing is, I don't know what to put my hand on. The car is a bit further away from me, and any drive requires 1h (30 min each way). I'm still working and besides I also have some dinosaurs that must be take care of and provided for, plus delivered to and extracted from all their after school activities.. So my free time is below 0..

I haven't yet tested the thermal fuse cemented in the ceramic capacitor, but will do. I'd hope not too have to desolder the waffle plate, but if nothing else works, "I'll do it, «and I'll definitely do it again»".. some laughing won't hurt..

I don't know what fan should start and what relays should click when turning ignition, I haven't paid to much attention, but I could hear the water pump regularly working for many seconds then pausing for few minutes while we were digging with elm, obd and vcds cables in the car..

Questions:

1. Any advice on what should we test/measure with the boards still in the car?
2. Anything I should check at the car while I'm there?
3. Does removing of the BCM boards entirely (including the waffle board but without its box) require the emptying of the coolant installation? I'm thinking to get them to my home so that I could conduct the investigation work during the night.

Thank you and much obliged!

I'll continue reading and I'll keep you updated on the progress.

 

[MickeyS70]

Hello and welcome to the forum

The problem: 2012 Citroen C-Zero not charging either from fast charge or from AC.

Can you clarify what you mean by ‘fast charge’? That’s usually referring to a public 7kW AC Type 2 EVSE; which would make ‘AC at home’ the ‘granny’ lead?

 

[ro0ter]

Hello and welcome to the forum

Can you clarify what you mean by ‘fast charge’? That’s usually referring to a public 7kW AC Type 2 EVSE; which would make ‘AC at home’ the ‘granny’ lead?

Hello MickeyS70,

Yes. Fast charge = public 7kw charging, the plug on the left (driver) side of the car. Slow charging = charging with the 2.3kw adapter from 220v mains, plug on the right car side, it has a brick with 4 leds between the mains cable and the cat cable.

 

[MickeyS70]

Hello MickeyS70,

Yes. Fast charge = public 7kw charging, the plug on the left (driver) side of the car. Slow charging = charging with the 2.3kw adapter from 220v mains, plug on the right car side, it has a brick with 4 leds between the mains cable and the cat cable.

Sound, is there a CHAdeMON rapid charger nearby to check if that works?

 

[coulomb]

I haven't yet tested the thermal fuse cemented in the ceramic capacitor, but will do.

That's most easily tested (along with a few other components) with this handy photo:

The "½Ω" refers to when the pre-charge relay is on; that's a little more difficult to test. All the details are available via the index (first few posts) of this thread. I just happened to come across this photo in a recent thread, so I thought I'd post it here.

1. Any advice on what should we test/measure with the boards still in the car?
2. Anything I should check at the car while I'm there?

DTCs! See below. Otherwise, not that I can think of. I don't own an iMiEV, so I nearly only see chargers out of the vehicle.

Does removing of the BCM boards entirely (including the waffle board but without its box) require the emptying of the coolant installation? I'm thinking to get them to my home so that I could conduct the investigation work during the night.

No, it can all be removed from the case without taking the case out of the car. It's awkward, but doable. Disconnect the 12 V battery before removing the HV battery disconnect under the front seat.

The 12v battery is fine. It's been on life support ever since the car is suffering, as the DRL are always on

Does the DC-DC charge the 12 V battery when in ready mode? You say that the motor controller 20 A fuse is OK, so the DC-DC should be getting battery voltage.

I have only realized now that we need a MUT... Will try to call on the local automobile club, maybe someone will help). So we have no DTCs..

? But you can get DTCs with an OBD-II dongle and suitable software on a phone. Definitely try to extract those before removing the On Board Charger PCBs.

 

[Robert Rowe]

That is a great catch to find and solve that problem, thanks for sharing your finding.

Your persistence and endeavor to persevere has paid off and we are glad to hear it.

As far as i know, it's a first time to find that connector as a problem, so i guess it just shows that nothing can be overlooked when hunting down issues of the OBC.

Usually there is a zip cable tie on that connector, but it had to be removed for servicing the boards.

Today is Sept 9 My MiEV is going strong. The guess o meter is back on after recalculating driver operation I charged it last night on slo charge It says 69 miles.
All working , calculating , charging.

thanks forum , Kiev and good blessing from my spirit helper to find this .