The Troubleshooting and Repair for On-board Charger (OBC) Thread

[Serhiy2192]

So you didn’t change anything, only new battery solved the issue, right?

Actually yes, recently i have charged main battery, but measured up my auxiliary battery in the end of charging cycle and it was 15,5 volts,I pretty sure that it is too much for it. Frankly,the charge was not finished yet,i decided to complete the charge, since the indlicator showed full. After a night, the voltage was 12.9 volts,it's ok.when car is in "ready" it shows 14.2 v,pretty good,like on non-electric cars.How many volts on auxiliary battery during charging by network do you guys have on it?

 

[Piki]

Actually yes, recently i have charged main battery, but measured up my auxiliary battery in the end of charging cycle and it was 15,5 volts,I pretty sure that it is too much for it. Frankly,the charge was not finished yet,i decided to complete the charge, since the indlicator showed full. After a night, the voltage was 12.9 volts,it's ok.when car is in "ready" it shows 14.2 v,pretty good,like on non-electric cars.How many volts on auxiliary battery during charging by network do you guys have on it?

I believe it was 14.7 when I measured. 15.5 really sounds much. Extremely low temperature during charging could explain it probably. But I believe it is the same circuit that charges the 12V battery when the car is in the ready mode and when the HV battery is charging, so it sounds strange. Heck again when charging next time

 

[Serhiy2192]

Ok,got it.i'll check the voltage in the beginning of charging.yesterday i measured the battery after driving it was near 14,3 V.but ignition was OFF
What do you mean extremely low temperature?where?

I believe it was 14.7 when I measured. 15.5 really sounds much. Extremely low temperature during charging could explain it probably. But I believe it is the same circuit that charges the 12V battery when the car is in the ready mode and when the HV battery is charging, so it sounds strange. Heck again when charging next time

 

[kiev]

Environment--ambient air temperature. The charging voltage is raised a bit in cold weather.

But it sounds like your DCDC is putting out too high a voltage.

 

[Serhiy2192]

I am in Florida,here is hot like in hell)
So,yeah,it is pretty weird
I have a 8 amp charger , i will try to charge somewhere

 

[kiev]

If the temperature sensor that is being used to adjust the DCDC output happens to be out of spec--it could be thinking that it's cold out even though it is hot as hell.

Also how sure are you about your volt meter? Calibrated? Expensive or HF?

 

[TheDexter]

I have spare parts for cap replacement in the Dog House and a few (should be working) OBC's in Denmark
And I can do the cap replacement. Done 2-4 of them by now.
Also have the OBD II Dongle for canIon, that via another app (Car Scanner) will reset codes.

And my 2011 I-MiEV is currently for sale, but I am not quitting this forum any time soon,
as I am great support for the Danish Ion, C-Zero, and i-MiEVs on Facebook.

Hej, hvordan får jeg fat i dig kunne godt være interreseret i stumper eller hjælp til rep

 

[Serhiy2192]

If the temperature sensor that is being used to adjust the DCDC output happens to be out of spec--it could be thinking that it's cold out even though it is hot as hell.

Also how sure are you about your volt meter? Calibrated? Expensive or HF?

Hello there, sorry for long answer
Now it's alright, i have normal voltage during charging, I don't know what it was, just kept going charging and once i left charging overnight, charging stoped by itself, and battery was full.i have another interesting issue. As i have an old main battery, car has approximately 30 miles range, but sometimes when it remains 6 miles i can't accelerate normally,top speed is 15 miles/h and "a tourtle" appears.but today i did already 35(!) miles range ,it remains 3 miles,but acceleration was good and tourtle appeared at 40 miles/hour.not big deal, just wondering why it happened

 

[coulomb]

sometimes when it remains 6 miles i can't accelerate normally, top speed is 15 miles/h and "a turtle" appears. But today i did already 35(!) miles range ,it remains 3 miles, but acceleration was good and turtle appeared at 40 miles/hour. Not big deal, just wondering why it happened.

I'd say that your cells are dissimilar in capacity. That means that one will get low first, usually when accelerating because that's when the load is the highest. The BMS should eventually learn about that low cell and reduce its estimated range to be more realistic. There isn't much that can be done about dissimilar capacity cells, other than replacing the worst ones. When dissimilar, you can balance at the top and have ragged bottom (early turtle), balance at the bottom and have ragged top (some cells can't accept regen).

 

[coulomb]

2) As for the MOVs, do their specs have any bearing on what GDT to use? The originals in my charrger are Panasonic ZNR V20471U, which seems to have been replaced by ERZV20D471, shown here: https://www.digikey.com/en/products...31?s=N4IgTCBcDaIKYCcBeBaAbmADAEwCwHYBGEAXQF8g .

I finally figured out the varistor part numbering. The lead spacing (R for 7.5 mm and D for 10 mm) is in the manufacturer's part number, but missing from the number on the device!! So the above seems to be the correct part number, as the boards have 10 mm pad spacing and 3.5 mm offset (pads are at the corners of a 10 x 3.5 mm rectangle).

So the full Panasonic part number is ERZ-V20D471, and the DigiKey part number is P7234-ND. For Australian readers, the link is P7234-ND .