I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[MickeyS70]

One thing though is that when we put it into neutral it is very hard to push the car. So I'm wondering if there is some damage to the transmission or motor? What do you think?

With lever in anything but P, (handbrake off) she should be very easy to move around, so it seems you’re right, there is some sort of excessive mechanical resistance. Further down the line you may look at the transmission fluid but for now maybe just jack it up and try moving the wheels in case the brakes are sticking?

After we put the brand new battery in the car display appears nicely after we turn the key.

Battery looks good, but you need DCTs to do proper troubleshooting going forward

But it won't move when put into reverse or forward.

Car needs to be ‘Ready’ before it drives…

 

[Rational]

IMHO you might be better off with HobDrive (paid version) as it is know to work with low cost dongles and can read/clear DTCs.

Thanks. I bought hobdrive paid version today for $8.00 on iphone. Sadly in my haste I misplaced my lelink odb reader I'd prepared to bring with me today. And the other two didn't work at all. Ah well...

I'm going to order a Vgate vLinker MC+ tonight if you say that's the best one to get to ensure success in grabbing DTC codes?

​

 

[Rational]

With lever in anything but P, (handbrake off) she should be very easy to move around, so it seems you’re right, there is some sort of excessive mechanical resistance. Further down the line you may look at the transmission fluid but for now maybe just jack it up and try moving the wheels in case the brakes are sticking?

Battery looks good, but you need DCTs to do proper troubleshooting going forward

Car needs to be ‘Ready’ before it drives…

Okay. Great next step recommendations. Thank you. Will do. I'll share once we have it in hand and am able to confirm.

 

[kiev]

As Mickey said the brakes might be rusted and drag or lock.

There is mechanical interlock on the shifter, key has to be in ON position and brake pedal pressed in order to shift out of Park.

Shift to N, then jack it up at each wheel and spin the wheel with one hand while grabbing the strut spring with the other. If the wheel bearings are good then it will be smooth, but if bad bearing then you will feel vibration at the spring.

The silt and road dust in the engine compartment tells me nobody has been messing with the OBC or MCU--couldn't even see the labels. i use a vacuum cleaner to get most of the loose dirt off, then a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush it looks clean as new.

The problem with the towing is, to what part of the suspension or body was the tow strap or chain attached? People trying to tow might attach to points which flex or bend under load.

 

[MickeyS70]

I'm going to order a Vgate vLinker MC+ tonight if you say that's the best one to get to ensure success in grabbing DTC codes?

I never had much luck (didn’t try hard though) connecting to a triplet using iOS devices, but iirc you need a wifi dongle to have any chance of success.

I rather went the Android route as I had a few old devices at home. Combined with my OBDLink LX Bluetooth dongle I have yet to find an app or car that it cannot communicate with.

 

[Rational]

I never had much luck (didn’t try hard though) connecting to a triplet using iOS devices, but iirc you need a wifi dongle to have any chance of success.

I rather went the Android route as I had a few old devices at home. Combined with my OBDLink LX Bluetooth dongle I have yet to find an app or car that it cannot communicate with.

Yeah, now that you mention it, ios is a PITA most of the time. Got to have the right dongle with the right software to ensure success.

Android just works. I will dig out my old android tablet and give that a try next.

I'd bought the lelink^2 because it was listed as the main one used by the leafspy dev and confirmed to be working with IOS. It is and does. Then I completely lost it today before leaving to check the MIEV!

I will just order the vLinker MC+ on amazon now tonight as it will take a week or more to arrive. Hopefully that will be the most compatible one?

I also can't find my blue/orange wifi obd2 dongle. Gotta look around hard. That one works well with android over wifi usually.

 

[Rational]

As Mickey said the brakes might be rusted and drag or lock.

There is mechanical interlock on the shifter, key has to be in ON position and brake pedal pressed in order to shift out of Park.

Shift to N, then jack it up at each wheel and spin the wheel with one hand while grabbing the strut spring with the other. If the wheel bearings are good then it will be smooth, but if bad bearing then you will feel vibration at the spring.

The silt and road dust in the engine compartment tells me nobody has been messing with the OBC or MCU--couldn't even see the labels. i use a vacuum cleaner to get most of the loose dirt off, then a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush it looks clean as new.

The problem with the towing is, to what part of the suspension or body was the tow strap or chain attached? People trying to tow might attach to points which flex or bend under load.

Oh, sweet rundown! Thank you. Sounds like the perfect path forward I'm grateful for that. Makes perfect sense. Can't wait to get it in hand.

We'll get a flatbed to bring it home as soon as we can. She told us it's been sitting for the last 3-4 months. Maybe 5 now. So might be related.

But she did say it stopped during that 2-ton truck tow and has not worked in forward or reverse since. So still wonder if she burned something out?

Like the transmission or motor? Would a motor seize up like that from burnout? Tranny as well? Or likely some electronics burned up from the strain?

Also want to get the traction battery down a bit as it's looking fully charged on the GOM and that's not good to sit like that for months, right?

I've appreciate the help so far. You gus are great. So I posted a bunch of pics in case they're MIEV porn for you all.

But yeah, DTC codes first and foremost for the win. I'm on it. Thanks guys.

 

[Rational]

OBDLink LX

Oh, OBDLink LX? Hmmm.. Maybe I should just get this instead then. I can get that in hand tomorrow from amazon japan. Thanks.

Done. Thanks again for the recommendation.

 

[kiev]

OBDLink LX is a superior device in my experience. It uses the STM chip set instead of the ELM 327. Too many cheap fake flaky ELMs and too many reports of them not working.

It also works in ICE cars with it's own app, OBDLink, and has nice dashboard option, dtc, etc. Overall just a great device, and it works on laef spy too.

 

[Rational]

OBDLink LX is a superior device in my experience. It uses the STM chip set instead of the ELM 327. Too many cheap fake flaky ELMs and too many reports of them not working.

It also works in ICE cars with it's own app, OBDLink, and has nice dashboard option, dtc, etc. Overall just a great device, and it works on laef spy too.

Nice. Yeah. I've also struggled with all the cheap knock off ELMs and hate them. It's time to go big as I will be working with EVs like this a lot in the future. Always wanted a really reliable one. I noticed this one had the most reviews on amazon compared to anything else too. So thank you for the recommendation!

Plus it's green so I won't lose it!

 

[miggols99]

I haven't got much to say regarding the technical details, but it's nice to see another i-MiEV owner here in Japan!

Just something I noticed, but I am sure you are aware there are two battery types available in Japan - the 10.5 kWh lithium titanate "M" version and the standard LEV 16 kWh version (base grade/G/X depending on the year).

The base grade came with LED headlights, but it looks like your one has had them replaced somewhere with halogen ones from either the gasoline "i" or the M model. The back lights look like the original ones.

 

[Rational]

I haven't got much to say regarding the technical details, but it's nice to see another i-MiEV owner here in Japan!

Just something I noticed, but I am sure you are aware there are two battery types available in Japan - the 10.5 kWh lithium titanate "M" version and the standard LEV 16 kWh version (base grade/G/X depending on the year).

The base grade came with LED headlights, but it looks like your one has had them replaced somewhere with halogen ones from either the gasoline "i" or the M model. The back lights look like the original ones.

Oh, nice. Thank you for all that. Didn't know. I'll check into getting LED headlights back in it to save some power. I'll also study up on the different packs here soon. Thanks for the heads up.

Whereabouts are you here in Japan?

 

[miggols99]

Oh, nice. Thank you for all that. Didn't know. I'll check into getting LED headlights back in it to save some power. I'll also study up on the different packs here soon. Thanks for the heads up.

Although the M model has a lower capacity, it has kept its value well due to the high resilience battery chemistry.
I mentioned the differences in a reply to this thread - take a look if you're interested!

https://myimiev.com/threads/lithium-titanate-jdm-version.5114/post-45258

Whereabouts are you here in Japan?

I'm nearby Tokyo in Ibaraki!

 

[kiev]

Would yall care to share your thoughts and opinions about the used EV market and used parts, salvage cars and parts, etc. availability and how that is handled over in Japan?

Are there salvage yards that dismantle wrecks and sell off parts, or are wrecked cars sent to the crusher?

i've tried to search and purchase used miev parts such as OBC and MCU, but it is difficult not knowing the system over there in addition to the language barrier.

With the miev being discontinued and not supported anymore over here, finding good used parts will be the only way to keep them on the road.

 

[Rational]

Although the M model has a lower capacity, it has kept its value well due to the high resilience battery chemistry.
I mentioned the differences in a reply to this thread - take a look if you're interested!

https://myimiev.com/threads/lithium-titanate-jdm-version.5114/post-45258



I'm nearby Tokyo in Ibaraki!

Very interesting read on the battery types. I am curious to see what this one has in it. She told us that it has driven now 200,000km 'very smoothly' on this battery and so she wondered if the prior owner had perhaps changed it out at some point. She said she'd ordered it from mainland like last October. Put a new JCI on it in January and then sometime in Jan or Feb is when she towed that 2-ton truck and it stopped working then. So she really only got like three months of driving on it here in Okinawa before it died. She said she only put on like 2-3000 km and was super disappointed as she just got it. It's been sitting since.

Would yall care to share your thoughts and opinions about the used EV market and used parts, salvage cars and parts, etc. availability and how that is handled over in Japan?

Are there salvage yards that dismantle wrecks and sell off parts, or are wrecked cars sent to the crusher?

i've tried to search and purchase used miev parts such as OBC and MCU, but it is difficult not knowing the system over there in addition to the language barrier.

With the miev being discontinued and not supported anymore over here, finding good used parts will be the only way to keep them on the road.

Sure. Yahoo auctions japan is the most common place to order parts that I know of. I ordered my 30kWh Leaf pack for my 2014. Paid like $600 for it delivered from mainland to Okinawa by ship. Took two weeks.

I'd like to do the same for the miev. I see lots of cheap packs there. But I also wonder how best to find and evaluate packs on yahoo auctions. With the Leaf it's a bit easier because they usually take a picture of the GOM and post it with the pack. Based on the current charge level you can kind of glean the pack range. Doesn't seem to be the case with the miev.

I'd tried to figure out where the label is from the left rear wheel but still don't really understand the angle and location I need to maneuver with my camera to get the picture. Wished someone had made a youtube video of how to do it. It would be interesting if it had SCiB batteries in it.

They also have used car websites here in Japan that list all the current offerings throughout the country. You can sort by make and model and price as well as location. Very descriptive and a reliable process from what I hear. Being Japan it's very trustworthy. Same for yahoo auctions.

You can use google chrome to translate the webpages into English so it's easy. But yahoo auctions requires you to set up a bank account with them here in japan before you can sign up. So there are a few websites that handle foreign English speakers and also have their own website that filters it into English for you. They also do all the liasion work for you to ask questions and don't charge all that much. A lot of guitar collectors use these sites to get great deals. Same for JDM cars and parts.

https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search...rce&ei=utf-8&aq=-1&oq=&sc_i=&p=i-miev&x=0&y=0

 

[Rational]

https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search...rce&ei=utf-8&aq=-1&oq=&sc_i=&p=i-miev&x=0&y=0 Main Japanese yahoo auctions site.

https://www.jauce.com/

https://buyee.jp/yahoo/auction?lang...OBff3yLLaHTb8KAlfxN6AAkxrEVhaLzTxgS_rjoitYxAu

https://yahoo.aleado.com/0-catlist.html


A lot of anime toy collectors also use these sites.

For example if you search on "MIEV battery" here are the results:
https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search...q=-1&oq=&sc_i=&exflg=1&p=miev+battery&x=0&y=0

Great prices. Perhaps you can help me evaluate what would be a good condition battery pack based on the pictures shared? Or is there not really enough information without screenshots from an OBD2 app? If so, most sellers aren't savvy enough for that. Or too busy.

They just rip them out of cars that come to their junk yards. Either from being in accidents or just because they de-registered them because of age or problems.

Some sellers do provide some obd scanner screenshots though at times. Like this one for example for a pack removed from a MIEV van:
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r1133920716

In those cases you can see codes at least. But I'd need more experience with these miev cars and packs to see if I could evaluate battery condition with such limited information being posted. It's a gamble though.

Sometimes they show the odometer and car year so that helps determine if it's a cream puff perhaps.

 

[Rational]

Here is one of the main used car sites here in Japan.

https://www.goo-net-exchange.com/php/search/summary.php

 

[Rational]

I got the LX dongle today. Bluetooth version. Got the apps to connect and say OK. But I don't have the MIEV in hand yet and it seems these apps are specifically for the MIEV.

I tried it with my Prius and Leaf but not really working. Hot sun is killing me. So overheated and frustrated. Taking a break. Think I need to find the right app for the right car in order to get readings.

Hobdrive also doesn't have the Nissan Leaf in their list, nor will it update the profiles even when connected to the internet. Bought the full version of hobdrive android too for $21 and nothing appearing in the app for metrics yet.

Wasn't working with my leaf either with leaf spy. But neither was my Lelink which was before. Hope I haven't broken them all or something. Stepping away for a bit...

Wondering if the WIFI version is better? Should I have bought that?

Trying on an old android 6 tablet and my current IOS iphone 8. No dice yet.

 

[kiev]

Did you purchase it from the scantool.net website, or a verified distributor?

What type of screw head is used on your LX? There are counterfeits out there and they use a different screw and the guts of it use the ELM chipset--total fake out.

They have an app for ICE cars, OBDLink, and it also works with the app, Torque.

i've used it with leafspy on my 2012 laef.

The Blueteeth radio has to "pair" to another device; you should be able to "see" a list of devices it finds when the radio is turned on.

 

[MickeyS70]

In those cases you can see codes at least. But I'd need more experience with these miev cars and packs to see if I could evaluage battery condition with such limited information being posted. It's a gamble though.

Sometimes they show the odometer and car year so that helps determine if it's a cream puff perhaps.

The most basic information required to give you an idea of pack ‘health’ is age and mileage, another hint is that from about mid/late 2012 cars manufactured (not sold) were equipped with the much improved (as far as degradation goes) LEV50N cells.

Unfortunately there is no definitive way to determine the performance of a pack until you run a battery calibration which requires a working car and about a day to do.

It’s possible to read out CMU data (cell voltage/temperatures) of a removed pack similar to a Leaf but that gives no clue about its remaining capacity.

You might be better off going for a NMC upgrade in the long run:

https://myimiev.com/threads/main-traction-battery-upgrade-i-miev.5458/