Help with scanned error codes

[Timh]

Yes I'm aware of that, I just happened to take that pic while i was moving through the gears to check the dash was showing the correct gear as per the shifter.

I'm not getting the ready light, obviously there's still a few errors to be ironed out, just got to work out what they are. Perhaps its time to use the scanner again.

 

[Timh]

For anyone wondering, I managed to get to the "ready" stage after recharging the 12V battery. It seemed to reset the system and cleared the way for everything to work. I couldn't drive it, as it had a flat tire, and the oil had been drained from the trans. I did want to check the motor would turn over, so I put it up on jackstands and put it into gear. I was surprised to hear the wheels turning immediately from putting into D, and then spinning wildly once I depressed the brake pedal (the speedo flew up to 101km/hr!). I quickly shut it down after that. I presume it was trying to do something with the regen?

 

[tomhanman]

Hi, six and a half years later and I'm in a very similar situation. I've purchased a smashed imiev (labelled Peugeot Ion here in France) and I am failing to get it running. It was a front end, high level smash. Both front airbags fired. I have rearranged the front end, wired in a big fully charged 12V battery, lights work, wipers work, dashboard works, but it won't go into ready and I cant get any fault codes except U1111. My gear selector seems to work fine with dash showing all letters as selected. I have removed and tested every fuse I can find from footwell and under bonnet fuse box. Only one was blown - the car stereo one!!

Can the airbag ecu prevent ready mode? Does it prevent canbus comms?

Is there a pyro-fuse in the battery for accidents?

Any help much appreciated,

Regards,

Tom.

 

[kiev]

That is a CAN Buss fault for lack of communication with the ETACS-ECU, which is a major controller for the body, located under the dash on the left hand side.

The FSM has lots of diagrams and steps to troubleshoot, mostly while using the MUT tool, but wiring harness and connector damage can be checked visually.

FSM CAN faults with MUT

---

See attachment for wiring and connector diagrams in pdf

 

[MickeyS70]

Hello and welcome to the forum

Can the airbag ecu prevent ready mode?

Yes, it seems that the SRS-ECU is preventing HV activation (see page 27 below)

https://anyflip.com/cqfwu/chfh

 

[tomhanman]

Wow, thank you so much for extremely useful and speedy replies. I haven't had time to check out the details of the linked pages yet as I'm on baby duty this evening. But I will study and report back.

Many thanks again, and thanks for the welcome,

Tom.

 

[tomhanman]

OK, some research done. Those are both great resources. I had already found the Russian service manual site, but that anyflip document is also very interesting whilst also remaining somewhat vague on details (which is probably why I understand it!).

From page 80 of that document:

If EV-ECU receives the signal of "DC 330V shut off", it makes turn off the main contactor to shut off the DC 330V circuit and out at the DTC P1B28.

Once SRS ECU send the signal of "DC 330V shut off", it continues to output the signal every time while the power switch is on, unless it is replaced with brand new one.

Once the SRS ECU detects the collision, SRS-ECU and the related parts are required to repair/replacement. Make sure to erase the DTC after the repair/replacement of SRS-ECU and related parts, otherwise the DC 330V circuit never be reverted from shut off mode.

So I need to replace the SRS ECU... or have it reset by one of these online companies. I assume that works as it seems to be big business.
And then I need to be able to clear the fault codes in the car, which I currently can't see, let alone clear!

I have tried to access the canbus with my LELink OBD-II BLE dongle that I hae used for a few years with Leafspy, Torque and CarScanner. Is this a problem with the Imiev? I know it is not on the approved list for Canion. I can connect to it, and the car in Carscanner, but then it doesn't manage to scan through the various ECUs, seemingly getting stuck with those U1111 (active), U1101 (archive) and U1100 (archive). I've also got P1A4C (archive). But I'm not seeing the real picture, not even the P1B28 from the SRS.

A quote from DBMandrake: I have a Scantool OBDLink LX which I bought to use with Canion on my Ion, which it does, however out of curiosity I've tried over a dozen Android based OBD-II scanning apps including the one bundled with the OBDLink and none of them will communicate with the car. All of them report that no ECU's are responding.

That reassures me that maybe the problem isn't in the car but in my dongle/apps.

So, I don't want to try troubleshooting the CAN networks before I know I have a compatible dongle. In order to rule out dongle incompatibility, what should I be looking for instead of my (trusty) LELink? I've been reading up... choices seem to be four fold:
VLinker MC for Canion and other Android apps available for 35€
iCarsoft i909 stand alone available for about 100€
Tactrix openport 2.0 clone with hacked software mut-3 software, price (and probably effectiveness) to variable to quote.
One of my old lexia clones from when I had a Citroen C4. I don't have the software installed anymore and not even sure they would be compatible now... they date from 2010/2011. I used one to set the tarmac on fire while executing a regen cycle on my ***!

I've seen various reports on various options, but not a lot that is specific enough to direct me to a purchase, any ideas?

Oh, and eventually if all (or anything) goes well I'd like to replace the LEV50 cells with the modules from an MG HS hybrid which basically has the same 50Ah capacity just in a rather smaller cell size. They are 90S, but I'll lop off the two spares. This would require getting the bms to relearn capacity or have it programmed... a need to take into account.

Right, I hear a baby crying, have a great Sunday all; and thank you,
Tom.

 

[MickeyS70]

It may be worth trying out below with your current dongle:

https://myimiev.com/threads/evutil-a-new-tool-supporting-the-imiev.5712/

If that doesn’t work to get DTCs, then try using your current dongle with the paid (Android) version of HobDrive.

The app is known to work with almost any Bluetooth dongle and is capable of reading/clearing DTCs on any triplet.

Setup isn’t very intuitive but check out @Rational ’s video below (post #9)

https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/


If you’re planning a battery replacement, then the MUT3 is highly recommended, potentially you could even use your old lexia cable as a VCI or resurrect Diagbox altogether.

 

[martinwinlow]

I think you may be over-thinking this and taking yourself off into all sorts of dead-end rabbit holes.

You *must* get a reliable DTC scanning setup working - I recommend Android Hobdrive and OBDLink LX as a minimum.

For what it's worth, *every single time* (must be at least a dozen times now over 4 or 5 different cars) I have interrogated a defective clone/triplet - either with Hobdrive or a Chinese MUT3 - I have had the U1111 reported, despite the fact that everything other than whatever was wrong with the car works normally. Ie, I think the U1111 is completely irrelevant as to why you can't get to 'Ready'.

 

[Rational]

U codes don't matter really compared to P codes.

U1111 just means you don't have the factory radio head unit connected anymore. Ignore it.

Follow my guide on how to get the dongle and car scanner connected to the car. It's the best app for getting and clearing codes.

Once through that, get your lexia clone going again with Mut3 if you still need it.

OK, some research done. Those are both great resources. I had already found the Russian service manual site, but that anyflip document is also very interesting whilst also remaining somewhat vague on details (which is probably why I understand it!).

From page 80 of that document:

If EV-ECU receives the signal of "DC 330V shut off", it makes turn off the main contactor to shut off the DC 330V circuit and out at the DTC P1B28.

Once SRS ECU send the signal of "DC 330V shut off", it continues to output the signal every time while the power switch is on, unless it is replaced with brand new one.

Once the SRS ECU detects the collision, SRS-ECU and the related parts are required to repair/replacement. Make sure to erase the DTC after the repair/replacement of SRS-ECU and related parts, otherwise the DC 330V circuit never be reverted from shut off mode.

So I need to replace the SRS ECU... or have it reset by one of these online companies. I assume that works as it seems to be big business.
And then I need to be able to clear the fault codes in the car, which I currently can't see, let alone clear!

I have tried to access the canbus with my LELink OBD-II BLE dongle that I hae used for a few years with Leafspy, Torque and CarScanner. Is this a problem with the Imiev? I know it is not on the approved list for Canion. I can connect to it, and the car in Carscanner, but then it doesn't manage to scan through the various ECUs, seemingly getting stuck with those U1111 (active), U1101 (archive) and U1100 (archive). I've also got P1A4C (archive). But I'm not seeing the real picture, not even the P1B28 from the SRS.

A quote from DBMandrake: I have a Scantool OBDLink LX which I bought to use with Canion on my Ion, which it does, however out of curiosity I've tried over a dozen Android based OBD-II scanning apps including the one bundled with the OBDLink and none of them will communicate with the car. All of them report that no ECU's are responding.

That reassures me that maybe the problem isn't in the car but in my dongle/apps.

So, I don't want to try troubleshooting the CAN networks before I know I have a compatible dongle. In order to rule out dongle incompatibility, what should I be looking for instead of my (trusty) LELink? I've been reading up... choices seem to be four fold:
VLinker MC for Canion and other Android apps available for 35€
iCarsoft i909 stand alone available for about 100€
Tactrix openport 2.0 clone with hacked software mut-3 software, price (and probably effectiveness) to variable to quote.
One of my old lexia clones from when I had a Citroen C4. I don't have the software installed anymore and not even sure they would be compatible now... they date from 2010/2011. I used one to set the tarmac on fire while executing a regen cycle on my ***!

I've seen various reports on various options, but not a lot that is specific enough to direct me to a purchase, any ideas?

Oh, and eventually if all (or anything) goes well I'd like to replace the LEV50 cells with the modules from an MG HS hybrid which basically has the same 50Ah capacity just in a rather smaller cell size. They are 90S, but I'll lop off the two spares. This would require getting the bms to relearn capacity or have it programmed... a need to take into account.

Right, I hear a baby crying, have a great Sunday all; and thank you,
Tom.

 

[tomhanman]

Hi, brilliant everyone. Whilst you were all giving clear and concordant advice I was reading through the full 15 pages of the topic on battery capacity increase as well as some other choice articles. Very impressive work. So I had rather excitedly encountered the advice to ignore U1111. Nice to have it confirmed, thanks Martin.

I definitely don't have the factory radio installed, it was ejected in the accident and impacted halfway up the rear seat. Lucky there were no kids back there.

I will study Hobdrive and your instructions Rational. I have downloaded the playstore version on my Samsung S21 Ultra, and it is the only app I've ever encountered that can't run. I click on it, it fills the screen, then within a second dissapears, no messages, nothing. I have other androids, I'll try those.

My thanks.

 

[tomhanman]

I realise I have viewed your video and advice several times already Rational. I did it just like suggested, to no avail. My adaptor is Bluetooth Low energy, I wonder if that is an issue. I also have a real cheapo from Aliexpress, standard bluetooth that works fine with my wife's MG ZS EV and Carscanner, but not with Leafspy. Couldn't get any joy with that either.

I'll try again with different Android, then I'll have to plump for a third dongle!

 

[MickeyS70]

I realise I have viewed your video and advice several times already Rational. I did it just like suggested, to no avail. My adaptor is Bluetooth Low energy, I wonder if that is an issue. I also have a real cheapo from Aliexpress, standard bluetooth that works fine with my wife's MG ZS EV and Carscanner, but not with Leafspy. Couldn't get any joy with that either.

I'll try again with different Android, then I'll have to plump for a third dongle!

Don’t forget, @Rational is using the tried and tested ODBLink LX dongle that works with all the verified triplet apps.

As mentioned before (post #28), HobDrive is your best bet with ‘low cost’ dongles.

 

[tomhanman]

Yep, I have ordered the VLinker MC which is a clone of the OBDLink with supposed rave reviews - recommended for Canion by the developer.

and I just followed this link...

https://myimiev.com/threads/hobdriv...ic-control-units-reset-errors.4101/post-51143

And found that the linked version of Hobdrive demo works fine on my phone, but when I "update" it using playstore the new version crashes instantly.

And the paid version, wow, ios pricing on Android, that's nice, plus to Russia too. Now my granny was born in Russia, and lived in Ukraine, so it is all confusing, but I do find it hard to just carry on as normal while what is happening is happening. I'll Try and find a way forward without that if at all possible.

 

[hjdlsnbc]

I recommend Android Hobdrive and OBDLink LX as a minimum.

Why should someone want to spend about 80$ on OBDLink LX and about 20$ on Hobdrive just to get Hobdrive working? This is a cost of about 100$ for a fraction of the functionality of what you can get with MUT3-SE or Diagbox. Getting MUT3-SE and Diagbox working cost each less then 100$.
With original quality adapters it cost more, but it is also by far more worth it then spending that much money for some third party software named Hobdrive
Here the overview:
https://myimiev.com/threads/overvie...ters-their-functionality-and-the-future.5719/

 

[tomhanman]

Made made some progress

I failed with all the android apps, sometimes I had a fleeting moment of functionality followed by nothing. I have noticed that there are some 11.9 ish voltages around the ECUs at the rear. They all seem to have good 12.5v as well, so I don't know if this is by design, I'll have to check pin diagrams. Made me wonder if they weren't playing up from 'low' voltage although really that should still be well within spec.

So I made sure the battery was fully charged and on trickle. Contacts good, earth good, then I went and tried the Diagbox 9 install I have just downloaded from French PSA diag super forum. And it worked! With a chinese half chip dongle that has been hanging around in my shed for over a decade. And yes hj... I did indeed end up with quite a powerful tool for absolutely nothing (although a donation to psa-diag is in order). A good day!

I had dozens of faults to start with, but after clearing and reconnecting all components I am down to U1116 for handsfree access (which I believe is irrelevant) and SRS/BTA faults only. Which is what I'd hoped for.
I have been able to view all battery cell info, all cells between 3.95v and 4.00v which is nice... sadly they are apparently down to 31Ah capacity. I haven't seen how to reset their capacity though, and I'll need that for the MG cells.

I can't clear any of the faults in the SRS unit with my Diagbox. I guess thats normal?

From the online service manual I gather that;
B1476 and 1477 are simple power loss codes from when the 12v battery was removed in the accident, they will be recorded but not cause fault status.
B1697 is of no significance because the imiev doesn't even have this facility. The Ion does, but I'm hoping that it is not considered vital by the SRS.
B1499 and B1698 are the biggies indelible except for people with hands on chip reprogramming skills.

So the question that now arises, can I get a used ion SRS module and just stick it in? Or do I have to get mine reset by someone clever?
That question is made slightly cloudy by the fact that this SRS module part number is actually from the imiev (8635A227DPSBCW2T67472 or 8635A386 or 8635A387DPSBCW2T68182) and NOT from the Ion (8635A387DPSBCW2T68182). Which is a bit odd , is this already a replacement?

Bearing in mind I wont be having any airbags in the 203 (although I could keep the collision detection system for HV shutdown in the even of an accident), this is just to get the system up and running again, any thoughts much appreciated, Tom.

 

[kiev]

Great news, good to hear you are making some progress.

i don't recall many posts about reviving a wreck with airbag deployment, so you may be the pathfinder for this.

The air bag module likely does a squib check looking at the resistance of the ignitor. It might be possible to put a resistor in the circuit for testing purposes. If squib is blown the circuit is open and no resistance measured, and throws a DTC.

 

[tomhanman]

Hi Kiev, thanks. Yes, I have already replaced all active srs devices (the two airbags that were triggered, the two seatbelt pretensionners, and the two curtain airbags) with 2.2 Ohm resistors... they're much lighter and will do wonders for the km/kWh .

The codes remaining are not for any faults with the crash sensors or airbags, simply the recorded into non accessible memory facts that a crash has occurred and the HV has been disabled.

There are plenty of companies offering module resets (particularly cheap in the US) so I guess I'll take a punt on that for double the money here in France!

 

[MickeyS70]

So I made sure the battery was fully charged and on trickle. Contacts good, earth good, then I went and tried the Diagbox 9 install I have just downloaded from French PSA diag super forum. And it worked! With a chinese half chip dongle that has been hanging around in my shed for over a decade. And yes hj... I did indeed end up with quite a powerful tool for absolutely nothing (although a donation to psa-diag is in order). A good day!

Good to know that the ‘half chip’ VCI is also working with a triplet.

sadly they are apparently down to 31Ah capacity. I haven't seen how to reset their capacity though, and I'll need that for the MG cells.

The battery calibration procedure can be found in ‘Repair/BMU/Maintenance… but won’t work until the HV system is good to go again.

I have already replaced all active srs devices (the two airbags that were triggered, the two seatbelt pretensionners, and the two curtain airbags) with 2.2 Ohm resistors... they're much lighter and will do wonders for the km/kWh .

How did you decide on the 2.2 Ohm? Is there a standard or did you measure it on a working car?

The codes remaining are not for any faults with the crash sensors or airbags, simply the recorded into non accessible memory facts that a crash has occurred and the HV has been disabled.

If the communication between SRS and EV-ECU is via CAN (just a guess) a bridge could be used to filter the relevant PIDs

There are plenty of companies offering module resets (particularly cheap in the US) so I guess I'll take a punt on that for double the money here in France!

Might be easier to just replace the whole SRS ECU…

Edit: Actually I have managed to clear the airbag lights with HobDrive, however the airbags weren’t activated, just forgot to connect the cables under the passenger seat before reconnecting 12V aux..

 

[hjdlsnbc]

I can't clear any of the faults in the SRS unit with my Diagbox. I guess thats normal?

Because i have tested this twice with two different setups in can give answer to that:
SRS error clearing with Diagbox software and original PSA interface: works
SRS error clearing with MUT-3 SE software and original OpenPort 2.0 interface: works

You could disconnect the G-sensor, wait for the error to appear, connect the sensor again and try to delete that sensor error to try to find out if the opened airbag error code is different from the point of clearing it.

If the communication between SRS and EV-ECU is via CAN (just a guess)

I am not sure about that. It could also be k-line. I have already find out that the communication to SRS is a bit different then with other devices in the car. When i have fixed my ETACS task, i would maybe look at the raw signals and what wires they are using when doing such SRS communication.