Help to get a wrecked car working, clearing error codes

[MickeyS70]

That link you sent seemed to conclude with the guy fiddling around a lot and then it's miraculously working so I'll give it back to the client. Quality.

I was more thinking of a close inspection of E-03 as there could be some contact issues.

 

[tomhanman]

Yep, I've just been checking continuity through there, finding no issues so far.

 

[tomhanman]

So I checked all the contacts through to the internal white connector that I removed from the top obc board without finding any faults. Can't test the other wires that go under the lower board so easily.

Do you know of something I can do / disconnect in the charger that would throw a known obc fault code without causing damage? Then I could, using diagbox, check that the code is being successfully set and sent to the obd system? I think that would be a nice way to confirm some functionality.

Any thoughts on the component pictured in my previous post?

Im the meantime I'm trying to figure out why I can't activate the heater or command the battery cooling duct. In case one of these things are causing the obc to shut off before starting.

Thanks.

 

[kiev]

components in the AC Input section of the charger (fuse, ZNRs, spark arrestor, X2 safety caps, ceramic resistors, etc)

The SA rarely go bad unless it was hit by lightning.

Take pictures of the top and bottom surface of the control board. There is a tiny surface mount fuse on the control board, on the 12V supply, that would disable the OBC if blown.

 

[tomhanman]

Ahhhh yes, that makes more sense.

I've solved the heater and battery cooling flap issues.

The OBC has done 15096Ah of charging from new. The dc charger 72Ah only.

I now have only three fault codes:

U1116 hands-free ecu no coms (lacking head unit)

F303 service config fault
FD86 choice of architecture not defined
(the both come from the autonomous emergency call box being disabled as the car was written off)

So nothing that should be of any significance going forward.

I expect the proper type 1 charger will work tomorrow

 

[kiev]

Check continuity of the little white fuse, F701, located on the bottom surface of the control board,

 

[MickeyS70]

Do you know of something I can do / disconnect in the charger that would throw a known obc fault code without causing damage? Then I could, using diagbox, check that the code is being successfully

You could keep the OBC ‘awake’ by bypassing the OBC relay (i.e. jumper the 12V feed from the DC/DC on E-03) and see if you can access it with Diagbox if your ‘proper’ type 1 doesn’t yield any clues??

 

[tomhanman]

I didn't even try my charger after resolving the battery flap control. Didn't have time, but I'll go straight for a proper type 1 charger tomorrow and see if that does the trick.

If not I'll get on F701.

When I run the diagbox diagnostic with the charging cable plugged in as instructed, the OBC shows as accessible. But as the only thing I can do is read codes, and there are none, it's not totally convincing. That is why I thought it would be good to create an internal obc error code so that I could check it flagged and was reported. I just don't know how.

Thanks, I'll report back on the inevitable success tomorrow

 

[MickeyS70]

When I run the diagbox diagnostic with the charging cable plugged in as instructed, the OBC shows as accessible. But as the only thing I can do is read codes, and there are none, it's not totally convincing. That is why I thought it would be good to create an internal obc error code so that I could check it flagged and was reported. I just don't know how.

You also mentioned that the 12V to the OBC drops very quickly; no power, no communication…

 

[tomhanman]

Charging with an oem leaf evse.

Nothing wrong with the charger, it simply didn't like the type 1-2 adaptor. Fan bloody tastic.

 

[tomhanman]

I've ordered the cheapest Chinese type 1 evse I could find. It has variable current from 8 to 16a at 230v so can maximize the OBC. 60€ delivered. It's from the series I use with my Leaf (only that is adjustable up to 32a). Fingers crossed the Ion 'likes' it!

 

[MickeyS70]

I've ordered the cheapest Chinese type 1 evse I could find. It has variable current from 8 to 16a at 230v so can maximize the OBC. 60€ delivered. It's from the series I use with my Leaf (only that is adjustable up to 32a). Fingers crossed the Ion 'likes' it!

Maybe that was the problem all along, the EVSE looking for a 32A load, or did you try lower settings?

Maximising the current on an old OBC may not be wise, use a lower setting instead…

 

[tomhanman]

Hi, no, I was using an delphi 10a fixed type 2 charger with 2-1 adaptor. Then I tried my variable one set to 8a also with the adaptor. Neither got past the initial checks and neither left any error codes behind, helpfully. Both of these evse work perfectly with our MG ZS type 2, and with the adapter on my Leaf type 1.

Maybe I didn't say my prayers right.

Oh and indeed I'm quite happy to charge slow when time allows, but nice to have an alternative when required.

 

[MickeyS70]

Maybe I didn't say my prayers right.

I’ve see this ‘hack’ on a German forum, symptoms: newer type 2 public EVSEs wouldn’t work with older clones using type 2 to type 1 cable/adapter.

Might be worth a try to modify the car, no need for a reed switch in your situation.

 

[tomhanman]

Well I went with the super cheap Chinese option and it is fantastic. 60€ delivered, it feels like very nice quality. Has a tiny white on black oled screen displaying power, current, energy, time. Also has a timer built in. The type 1 plug is really solid in hand with a metal release mechanism. Enacting that stops charging as is expected, so no nastiness on unplugging. And the variable current from 6 to 16a. All round a much nicer unit than oem.

A bit chilly here for further progress now, but I'm very happy, and grateful to have got to this point of fully functioning wreck! When it warms up I'll let it do the diagbox battery capacity measurement. Then next stage will be to see what can be removed and what can't (there is already some knowledge on this available, anyone know what happened to 318iev?). And then I just have to learn canbus and programming over a weekend and I can get on with the rest.

 

[jray3]

I hadn't been reading this thread- fantastic collaboration, and a great example of the value of this forum. @tomhanman , do I detect "An American in Paris"? I spent 5 years as an expat in Norway, but was disappointed to find very little interest there in keeping older EVs alive when I visited a couple years ago...

 

[tomhanman]

@jray3 you are right, I should probably have given more thanks and appreciation for the help received, so thank you all again. But don't go anywhere because the project still has a long way to go!!

No Americans in Paris here... More like 'English man in New york' except that the tiny little village in southern France that has been my home for 20 years is very definitely not New York.

The whole electric car to save the world idea has been totally scuppered by the manufacturers' money grabbing short sightedness, the dealerships' ignorance, the gouvernements' (here in Europe) crazy health and safety drive, and the publics' need to have the latest of everything.

Here in France there are literally no ev batteries for sale in the second hand market. The rules and regs lead to all damaged EVs being scrapped with the batteries being sent to 'specialised' companies for recycling. So we're literally scrapping brand new perfect batteries from accident damaged cars, mulching them and then sending them to China for refining and... Ev battery fabrication... that Europe then imposes tarifs on when they come back to us in a new EV. It is mind blowing.

 

[Franco Vecchi]

I’ve see this ‘hack’ on a German forum, symptoms: newer type 2 public EVSEs wouldn’t work with older clones using type 2 to type 1 cable/adapter.

Might be worth a try to modify the car, no need for a reed switch in your situation.

Hi, i have some problem on many AC public charger (made by enelx primary that are the most in my country) : the charge starts but after few seconds goes in "stanby".
The modification you suggest can solve the problem?
Diodes must be fitted inside the connector of the cable or best in the socket of the car?
I live in Italy

 

[MickeyS70]

Hi, i have some problem on many AC public charger (made by enelx primary that are the most in my country) : the charge starts but after few seconds goes in "stanby".
The modification you suggest can solve the problem?
Diodes must be fitted inside the connector of the cable or best in the socket of the car?
I live in Italy

If you use your own type 2 to type 1 adapter/cable to charge on a public EVSE, then yes, this may help, do the mod on the adapter/cable

It may not make a difference If the EVSE already has tethered type 1 plug, but you're welcome to try. Another forum member disconnected the 12V aux briefly and got it charging after connecting everything again??

 

[Franco Vecchi]

If you use your own type 2 to type 1 adapter/cable to charge on a public EVSE, then yes, this may help, do the mod on the adapter/cable

It may not make a difference If the EVSE already has tethered type 1 plug, but you're welcome to try. Another forum member disconnected the 12V aux briefly and got it charging after connecting everything again??

Thankyou, but the switch reported in the schematic how must be handled?