Gearbox removal

[Ezz2433]

Hello!

In the process of removing the gearbox on a MIEV 2011 mod, and have some questions that I hope someone can help with.

Is it the case that the damper and spring must be removed before the drive shaft can be dismantled as stated in the MMC? Or does it hold with nut "4" and push the drive shaft out? Tried knocking on it from the wheel hib side, but seems to be stock. It should just slide out from the hub towards the gearbox right?

 

[jray3]

Yes, removing the lower bolt for the damper (shock absorber) is necessary to pull the axle out, but not before popping loose both ends while the suspension is loaded such that the axle is level. I knocked axles out of the hubs with a wood block to cushion the mallet blows, not having the special tool, but took care that the axle wasn’t bottomed out in the gearbox. The coil springs come out very easily at full droop, specially if the damper is disconnected, so maybe a good option to level the driveshafts, depending on your lifting/ Jack stand options. Removing the shock absorber/ damper will allow maximum suspension droop (the spring will practically fall out), which provides more wiggle room to get the drive axles out. Of course break the axle nut loose before jacking at all.
I had a hard time getting the driver’s (left side) axle to pop out and chipped a tooth in the process, having overlooked the instructions to keep the axle level but it popped right out once properly aligned.

Good Luck!

 

[Ezz2433]

Thank you!

Just a little question. What do you mean with "but not before popping loose both ends"? Both ends of the shock?

 

[Ezz2433]

Yes, removing the lower bolt for the damper (shock absorber) is necessary to pull the axle out, but not before popping loose both ends while the suspension is loaded such that the axle is level. I knocked axles out of the hubs with a wood block to cushion the mallet blows, not having the special tool, but took care that the axle wasn’t bottomed out in the gearbox. The coil springs come out very easily at full droop, specially if the damper is disconnected, so maybe a good option to level the driveshafts, depending on your lifting/ Jack stand options. Removing the shock absorber/ damper will allow maximum suspension droop (the spring will practically fall out), which provides more wiggle room to get the drive axles out. Of course break the axle nut loose before jacking at all.
I had a hard time getting the driver’s (left side) axle to pop out and chipped a tooth in the process, having overlooked the instructions to keep the axle level but it popped right out once properly aligned.

Good Luck!

RH drive shaft end is now loose from the axle. However i dont understand how to get it out from there. Should the whole shaft slide into the transmission to get it out from the axle?

 

[jray3]

I’m not sure what you mean, so sent the PM invitation to call. The manual at http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2013/27/html/M127100330068601ENG.HTM
Is decent, and if you already removed the driveshaft/output shaft out of the transmission, removing it from the wheel hub should be the easier part. IIRC, I got it out of the wheel hub before the tranny. Take note that the axle can separate from the tranny output shaft (stub that goes into the CV) which shortens the assembly and may help, but I didn’t realize that till the whole assembly was removed. The manual shows pulling the output shaft from the CV/axle only after removal.

 

[Ezz2433]

Had to pull out the angle grinder. Threads got damaged anyway. New gearbox is in and the new problem now is getting the new drive shaft in again. Feel like they are to «long». They are pushed all the way into the axle hub, but still I am unable to get them into the gear box.

 

[Ezz2433]

Cant get it far enough to the right... something major i just dont understand.

 

[kiev]

Can the axle assembly be pulled laterally to the right and lowered 60 - 100 mm below the bottom shock mounting hole (or jack up the car), along with lateral compression of the LH joints ?

Otherwise it seems that the RH inner joint would have to be place onto the stub shaft first before the outer joint, OR the RH rear control arm needs to be loosened to allow the rear hub to move laterally enough to get the inner joint over the stub.

 

[Ezz2433]

Damn i feel stupid... As soon as you wrote lateral I know I've missed something. Lateral rod disconnected and shafts are in place.

Thank you.

 

[jray3]

We all deserve a self-induced dope slap when wrenching. Sorry to not mention the lateral rod.