Can you lock all doors from inside?

Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kamikadzzze

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2024
Messages
11
Hi everyone,
I added insulation to the doors and now I can't remember if locking button(see attachment) inside the car actually locked all doors or just the one.
Maybe I did not hook it up correctly and it needs a bit more adjustment?
If that is the case, how do you lock all 4 the doors from inside? 4 buttons on 4 doors is not an option, because the 5 door (in the back, the trunk, boot door) will be left unlocked.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20241025_172621.jpg
    IMG_20241025_172621.jpg
    58.5 KB
Thank you very much sir!
I will have to re-wire that one until I get it right.
I appreciate you input MickeyS70
and I wish you all the best!
 
Wow, I didn't know about the windows. It's the biggest heat lost for sure. (Or is it the roof?) I have to look at the options for films that can be used for windows. What exactly did you use jray3?

Now that I think about it, here in Bulgaria it wouldn't be very good idea. The low sais that stickers for technical check and insurance sticker have to be on the windshield, and when not valid HAVE to be removed (scraped). So front windshield is out as an option (or at least part of it). Is there a color change when film is applied? Will partial cover be an option? Did you do it to all the windows?

Does anyone have other great Ideas for improvement?

For door insulation I used a chinese sound and heating car insulation (it's what was available here). Cost was about 16 euro per sheet (no delivery).
It is silver on one side and black and sticky on the other (after you peel the glue protection paper film or course). Unfortunately it turned out to be only 6mm thick, so I applied more where I could (mainly on the back doors as they have more room).
Prepare some plastic clips (the one that connect the panel to the door). I had a few broken already, and a few that I broke myself, while tring to be super optimal and cover everything. First door was a nightmare (don't start with driver's door). I made a lot of mistakes and tried about 40 times to puck it back together (there are the broken clips). By the 4-th door all was very good and quite faster:
1) take the panel off, mark where the cables were or locking may not work (like it happened to me)
2) clean panel and the door from dust, stick back the (see-through) plastic to the black glue on the door, use gloves for the last as the black stuff is inpossible to clean.
3) put the plastic panel on some even surface and put the insulation sheet on top of it. (can be done the other way around of course, but apply some logic, or the cutout will be later left for the opposite side door).
4) Use a marker (dark color) to mark out the door panels size and form, but be generous and give it a bit more (at least 1 sm) so it allows for errors later. Mark the position of the clip whole or bolt. Apply the marker on the silver side, as this is the one that is towards you (towards the inside of the car).
5) Use a big scissors to cut the insulation sheet, bit again be generous. Don't cut the marked clip and bolts holes yet. Just have them there as a rough orientation where they should be.
6) If you're doing the back door, and you planned to add speakers there - now would be the time to do it. If you do so, mark the hole for it, but again be very generous - thus making the marked hole a lot smaller than the actual. The cables whole for door handle should be vertical, and doesn't have to be very exact (it can very by a lot). So just make a vertical cut about 5 sm after they come out. Don't cut the horizontal one for the controls handles screw.
7) I started from the top, as it was the only one straight and thus would lead to smaller errors going down. I applied it about 1sm below the edge of the window. You can give it even more room like 2-3 sm down from the edge, as this was pushing a bit on the panel later and made it harder to close. I stick it directly on the metal (the best option). Just try to keep the same distance from top as, even small angle here would lead to bigger errors on the bottom (lucky you were generous and there will be some insulation to cover the error). I peeled about 20 sm down from the top, but left the papper hanging. Then applied (pushed firmly) just the top 2-3 sm right under the window. Be careful from now, as you can peel or rip the small glue area. Now put the cables though the vertical cut you did in step 6. Mark the point where the horizontal one is and the cut horizontal line about 1-2sm above the mark (when you push close to the door it will fit better).
Now peel another 30 or so santimeters before applying pressure on the insulation down, and going from front to the back.
8) Put fresh clips where it's needed and place the panel on the window slot, push it a bit around the frame - this will clearly mark where the clip should be. Take off the panel and with a box cutter cut out around 2-3 sm around the markings.
Put the panel back on and see if it fits well. Now use the marker to trace the panel's frame and cut deeper than the marked lines (now is ok as it is already glued). Tries and additional cuts may be needed if the panel is not very eager to go into it's place.
9) When you think it's all good, connect the cables before putting the panel on. Put the door locking one to exact place you marked in step 1 and test locking before putting bolts and pushing clips in.

PS: I added some insulation to the back (5th door) too, but it was very hard an quite messy.

I tried to be very clear, but English is not my mom's tongue, so ask if you don't understand something.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top