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It might turn out that way, however just as an example, below turned out to be a CMU fault.. Maybe a quick way to verify is to do a load test, ODBZero keeps a log of cell voltages, so take her out for a spin and put the foot to the floor a few times, then upload the log file and compare cell...

You’re referring to a ‘classic’ LTC chip failure where no cell data is reported on a particular CMU that causes a voltage spike on CanIon. I have also seen CMU failures with less dramatic effects (e.g. a constant offset), but you’re right, too early to tell which way this swings…

Anothper possibility (or is it?) is that the IGBTs blew twice, initially because of towing a 2 ton truck and again just now on the replacement inverter because of the sticky brakes (similar to what happened to @Neo5)? Might be worth having a visual inspection of the current IGBTs just in case…

Let’s summarise then: Motor unit: The turning resistance was caused by the ‘sticky’ disk brakes, AC voltage measured between phases U,V,W when turning the wheel manually seem identical, which indicates similar coil resistance and no short to chassis. Connecting two or more phases together...

That’s promising, balancing might improve things significantly I’d say material cost for a CAN bridge are about half of your estimate, also bear in mind that cold weather will reduce current range significantly Balancing times out after a while, so I suggest to fully charge it, then drive it...

Measuring coil resistance is a static test, need to set the DMM to it’s highest sensitivity (mOhm)

This is an AC motor, need to set your DMM accordingly Don’t think so, has to be in P to start. Don’t forget to do below and while you’re at it measure resistance between U/V/W: kiev said: If the motor has a shorted winding then spinning the wheel may be difficult as if the brake is holding...

Things to consider before swapping MCU/Motor

If you look at the schematic below you will see that there are actually 6 IGBTs / rectifier diodes. They seem to be physically arranged in 3 blocks inside the inverter. What it also shows is that the output is directly connected to the motor unit, therefore if you disconnect G-07/G08/G09...

Probably not, but see what happens. In the meantime did you re-check the DTCs; have they changed after replacing (all?) IGBTs?

You could still swap it, your original DTCs should be replaced with VIN mismatch errors if the original contoller board is also defective

What do you mean by ‘good’? OBD data has already determined that it’s a 88 cell 16kWh battery, what would be interesting to know is when it was built. I gather you couldn’t find the label mentioned in post #14 but based on indicated range and current capacity it could well be the original...

The various screenshots don’t show much of a voltage difference in general, therefore maybe try to get the good ones down to around 3.7V and check on the outlier but so far it looks promising for a CMU fault. Yes, in a nutshell the Arduino is intercepting all CAN communication from the CMUs...

Hello and welcome to the forum This issue is most likely caused by a CMU (cell management unit) problem i.e it’s not reading cell #7 voltage correctly. To test this theory, take screen shots at various SoC levels and compare #7’s reported voltages to the others, if the difference remains...

Well done, looks like fuse 13 also supplies the “regular charge port lamp” feeding into the the ETACS-ECU…

Good news, after a FW update the adapter now works with both versions…

To keep this thread focused on NMC conversions, I have moved discussions regarding LFP cells to https://myimiev.com/threads/the-aftermarket-cell-replacement-saga.4403/

LEV50s are most likely LMO chemistry LEV60F cells simply aren’t suitable as a direct replacement; while the voltage difference could be managed, they won’t fit physically (see @Jiminy ’s post #247) Regardless of what the chemistry’s upper/lower limit is, the native BMU will stop charging once...

According to link below there is such a thing as OEM LEV61 cell, given that it seems to match the dimensions of the LEV50 exactly and the BMU is capable of dealing with 60Ah cells these would be literally plug and play, no hacks required, just a bit of patience...

It seems a bit too convenient showing an apparent ‘empty’ tank and no charger to verify that the car actually works? Not saying it’s a scam but the same symptoms could also be the result of a faulty OBC and some issues with the HV pack (CMU errors) As @kiev mentioned a new 12V Aux is a must...