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There are some pics and pcb layouts in the thread below, post #422/473 https://myimiev.com/threads/the-p1a15-troubleshooting-thread-no-ready-p1a15-error-condenser-charge-timeout.4225/page-22

HobDrive is a bit tricky to configure, have a look @Rational ’s excellent videos (post#9) https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/

Very true, therefore I’m inclined to think that Jakob was more worried about loosing the battery pack than the support of the chassis..

@kiev is correct, the BMU will automatically adjust the capacity over time doing the ‘native’ procedure mentioned. It has been reported that the BMU only allows changes of +/-2Ah per month, therefore this may take a while. Alternatively you can do this with your OBDLink dongle and HobDrive App...

Replacing cells in a degraded pack is like a game of ‘whack-a-mole’, regardless of how may you replace, different ones will show bad until you have swapped them all, I’m afraid.. Charging stops once one cell reaches 4.1V, but then balancing starts and the highest cells are ‘bled’ to reach the...

Without further diagnostic information (via OBD dongle/app) it’s difficult to recommend a course of action, however if the car doesn’t CHAdeMON charge either, it’s unlikely to be an OBC problem and rather pointing to a HV battery issue as @JoeS suggested. A weak and worn 12V Aux battery is also...

Charging stops once a cell reaches 4.1V, but this will only result in 100% SoC if the energy measured going into the HV battery equals the capacity value set in the BMU. The only way to correct the discrepancy quickly is to to calibration. Max current (foot to the floor) is around 150A...

That seems pretty good for a 2012 I-MIEV, looks like the cells you replaced weren't the ones with the lowest capacity, they just couldn't handle high currents? You may therefore not see a significant improvement of the remaining capacity after a battery calibration.

Car won’t drive, if a CMU has failed completely Good idea If you can’t get a CMU09, you might consider sourcing any 8-cell CMU and change the ID with proven methods (clone ID information, swap ID chip or use MUT3 to re-number CMUs)

In order to deep discharge the battery you need to put the heater on max, turn on AC and set the fan to boost. This will take a long time if you start with cell voltages around 3.9V…

Yes, that is the case when you DC charge a degraded pack, low capacity (weak) cells will increase cell voltage faster They never will, their capacity is limited by the weakest cell in the pack The BMU only starts balancing after the pack reaches a SoC of 100%, therefore best to do the battery...

Yes, I use Diagbox 7.x to do a battery calibration on my 2011 built I-MIEV. IIRC the term ‘lamp’ refers to the charge symbol on the dash, not the battery indicator. Does the car always charge immediately or do you need a few attempts before it starts? If that’s the case check DTCs as this may...

It’s a given that you will see imbalance if you add (a) new or significantly higher capacity cell(s) to a pack, wouldn’t loose sleep over it as you know the reason why…

Hallelujah Have you thought of replacing the complete pack with CATL93? If you’re replacing 18s lead-acid cells with LEV50, you need to measure the UPSs charging voltage to stay within safe limits, 8s (32.8V max) doesn’t seem enough.

Nothing wrong with your English, but you don’t seem to accept that cell numbering isn’t following the electrical connections (as @kiev mentioned multiple times) I understand you need to see to believe therefore I suggest to do this now (or take the risk of having to re-do all the work later)...

Looks like we won’t be able to convince @Juanjo Madrid that the schematics is correct? Unfortunately not much else to do than hope he has a change of heart and swaps the right cells…

Go back to post #256/257, somehow the BMU now mistakenly thinks it has a brand new battery (48Ah) installed, but the car doesn’t do anywhere near 80miles on a single charge.. True, but it can make big changes to the pack’s capacity value in the BMU; (not just +/-1Ah the ‘native’ calibration is...

Yes, but not all of the capacity (50Ah) is actually usable, only about 14.5kWh (45Ah) are, same principle applies to any EV: https://ev-database.org/uk/car/1029/Mitsubishi-i-MiEV

True, but the aim here is the opposite; to correct an impossible battery capacity of 16kWh that the BMU currently calculates with (iirc it was around 10kWh initially)…

Sorry, I misunderstood what you were trying to achieve Yes