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Under what conditions? If it's pushed up by the DC-DC or by an external 12 V battery charger, then that means nothing.

Yes. Hopefully the link will be fixed soon. In the meantime: https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=6753

Arrgh - there is a bad link to the good image, and now I can't edit it. Here is the good link: https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=6753 @kiev, could you fix the link with your new moderator powers? The page in question is here; bad link at the top right. [edit: i think it's fixed...

It's possibly not a fuse at all, just the weak auxiliary (12 V) battery.

Yes, check the SMD fuses first, as per this post. Edit: You could also do some easy sanity checks on the LTC chip: You will need to power up the board for the voltage test, obviously. But checking for around 10kΩ in the two places indicated will often tell you if the chip is melted or not...

Yes, you could connect the inner or outer pair with a piece of wire. Or you could just put the capacitors side by side, and crimp the leads to the other capacitor's leads. Or just share the same solder blob. I'm sure there are a dozen ways to do it. Those capacitors are not essential for...

The two capacitors are in parallel. The two closest leads connect, and the two outer ones. I'm pretty sure you can find where the capacitors connect to elsewhere, without having to access the under side of the board (and hence desolder 72 pins to the Waffle Board™). So no need to discard the old...

I think you're just going to have to put an oscilloscope on the control pilot wire (maybe not so hard with the reconnection?), and figure out why it's not getting to state C (charging). https://openev.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/6000052074-basics-of-sae-j1772 Perhaps check that...

I've often wondered. My vague impression is that each ECU has a number of "settings" or "parameters", and you can change those. I don't think that you get access to the actual firmware binary image (which is what I'd want, for poking around in). As an example, the dashboard firmware might have a...

Perhaps "4B11T turbocharged I4" or variations thereof? The "10" may not refer to 2010, but to the submodel X (near the end of the Wikipedia page). Maybe this subtlety is to avoid bots or some such.

I happened to come across this; it may be of use to someone. You are supposed to use some special tool test harness, but I think if you start a charge, you should see the PWM signal on pin 2 of some connector associated with the battery cooling fan. From...

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, but do you do it by throwing the breaker at the side of the EVSE? No, but if you did, that would be a mechanical break, interrupting the power supply with an air gap. What you probably do is press the button on your J1772 plug, or use your key fob to unlock your...

One of the non-power wires to the battery fan seems to be labelled FPWM, that sounds like Fan Pulse Width Modulation. That presumably sets the fan speed. The other is hard to read, and I can't quickly find the original, but it seems to be labelled FRWM, the W might be warning or similar. So I...

This seems to be some sort of third party device of unknown quality. DigiKey only drop ship it; it's not a standard part. So testing would be really good. Not trivial to do safely though. Maybe 60 V from a dual 30 V power supply would be enough for a rough test, and assume that it's linear.

And a quarter of the price that the real device was sold for (in the end anyway; perhaps the price escalated as they became scarcer). But it would be great for someone to verify that they seem to me made professionally and work at least on the bench.

These appear to be clones, made by someone or some company to fill the void left by Analog Devices no longer making them. Well done, as long as they work as advertised and are suitable for automotive applications.

I'd say that the capacitor is toast, whether caused by a bad solder joint or not. Edit: I had completely the wrong capacitor earlier. This is C7, a 1.0μF film capacitor. I can't quickly find a voltage rating, but 630 VDC would be about right. It actually sees just rectified mains, so 310 VAC...

I note that the 2M resistor makes a bigger difference when placed in parallel with another resistor. So it's possible that the 2M "overcorrected", and either it fixed itself, or the 6.8M brought it within specification.

There can be many faults, but a very few are far more common that all the others: * Exploded snubber capacitors; these can be diagnosed by examination * Blown pre-charge resistors; these can be checked with a multimeter * Oozed mains X capacitor; these can also be checked by eye. These are all...

I finally figured out the varistor part numbering. The lead spacing (R for 7.5 mm and D for 10 mm) is in the manufacturer's part number, but missing from the number on the device!! So the above seems to be the correct part number, as the boards have 10 mm pad spacing and 3.5 mm offset (pads are...