bobakka said:
I know that Torklift has sold at least one to a customer (in the Netherlands, IIRC), so you might just ask Matt or Katie at Torklift Central if they received any user feedback.
support(at)tlcentral.com
Trailer Hitch Installation
- Thread starter sandange
- Start date
Help Support Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum:
I know that Torklift has sold at least one to a customer (in the Netherlands, IIRC), so you might just ask Matt or Katie at Torklift Central if they received any user feedback.
support(at)tlcentral.com
Finally got around to hooking up the trailer lights.
First off, in order not to affect the existing i-MiEV lighting system and to also not bother bringing separate turn signal and brake lights out of the car, I decided to use an electronic buffer/combiner called a Powered Taillight Converter. I bought a CURT p/n 54146 which is good for 3A brake/turn signals and 6A taillights and comes with a standard trailer four-pole flat connector. I picked mine up on Amazon for less than half that listed price.
Next, where to find 12v? My trailer-hitched i-MiEV is installed in Mitti which has the high-power audio amp and thus supplies the amp directly with 12v. The amplifier is located inside the car under the plastic cover above the left rear wheelwell. Simply tapped into one of the two fat red wires (fused by the car at 20A).
While I had that left cover removed, I tapped into the green left turn signal wire. I also noticed a common ground point towards the aft end on the left side so I attached to it using an eye on a length of black 12 AWG wire. Made a neat bundle and zip tied it and brought the three wires over to the right side of the car underneath the threshold at the bottom of the hatch opening.
Removed the right side aft panel and picked up the light green (right side) taillight, the violet brake light (not sky blue like I thought was in the wiring diagram), the blue right turn light, and hooked up all the wires to that converter (the converter comes with wire taps). Attached the converter to the car body above the wheelwell with the supplied sticky foam tape and zip-tied all the wires. Everything nicely located behind the cover plate on that right-side aft panel and the wire is plenty long to bring out from behind that panel and under the tailgate to the trailer connector. Sorry, forgot to take pictures.
Edit:
Photo here: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=26303#p26303
First off, in order not to affect the existing i-MiEV lighting system and to also not bother bringing separate turn signal and brake lights out of the car, I decided to use an electronic buffer/combiner called a Powered Taillight Converter. I bought a CURT p/n 54146 which is good for 3A brake/turn signals and 6A taillights and comes with a standard trailer four-pole flat connector. I picked mine up on Amazon for less than half that listed price.
Next, where to find 12v? My trailer-hitched i-MiEV is installed in Mitti which has the high-power audio amp and thus supplies the amp directly with 12v. The amplifier is located inside the car under the plastic cover above the left rear wheelwell. Simply tapped into one of the two fat red wires (fused by the car at 20A).
While I had that left cover removed, I tapped into the green left turn signal wire. I also noticed a common ground point towards the aft end on the left side so I attached to it using an eye on a length of black 12 AWG wire. Made a neat bundle and zip tied it and brought the three wires over to the right side of the car underneath the threshold at the bottom of the hatch opening.
Removed the right side aft panel and picked up the light green (right side) taillight, the violet brake light (not sky blue like I thought was in the wiring diagram), the blue right turn light, and hooked up all the wires to that converter (the converter comes with wire taps). Attached the converter to the car body above the wheelwell with the supplied sticky foam tape and zip-tied all the wires. Everything nicely located behind the cover plate on that right-side aft panel and the wire is plenty long to bring out from behind that panel and under the tailgate to the trailer connector. Sorry, forgot to take pictures.
Edit:
Photo here: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=26303#p26303
ChaplainBill
Member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 19
I mounted the same trailer hitch product on my Hawaii car, and use it for installing a bicycle carrying rack on the back of the car. Very light load, and no scratches on the roof racks from trying to carry bikes on the roof. Surfboard racks were installed for my kayak, surfboards, etc. I bought a Thule baggage carry bag to attach to the Thule racks, to handle luggage for airport runs. It makes the car so much more practical for my lifestyle.
My only problem now is the range going down on my batteries. I have a sound from the front wheel, driver side that the local tire shop says is a bad bearing. Will take the car to the dealership next week for their investigation, hopefully a warranty item!?
Aloha!
My only problem now is the range going down on my batteries. I have a sound from the front wheel, driver side that the local tire shop says is a bad bearing. Will take the car to the dealership next week for their investigation, hopefully a warranty item!?
Aloha!
nikalex
Active member
Just thought I would share my experience with the Torklift Ecohitch for the I-MiEV.
Just installed my 2" receiver hitch that I preordered and picked up from them.
Great quality product. Heavy - yes but solid.
Bolts to sub-frame (one bolt per side - 1/2" UNC on one side and 3/8UNC on the other) plus uses the 4 x 10mm shank diameter rear bumper assembly bolts (2 per side) as well.
This is not my first trailer hitch installation.
Their instructions are terrible, written by a non installer I would guess.
But if you are reasonably mechanically inclined and have basic tools (including torque wrench) one person can do it safely in an hour.
I had to grind down the large rectangular backing washer a fair bit to get it to fit through the sub-frame access hole.
All in all a great product. An aluminum version would be fantastic. My cost was US$290.00
Cheers, Roman
Just installed my 2" receiver hitch that I preordered and picked up from them.
Great quality product. Heavy - yes but solid.
Bolts to sub-frame (one bolt per side - 1/2" UNC on one side and 3/8UNC on the other) plus uses the 4 x 10mm shank diameter rear bumper assembly bolts (2 per side) as well.
This is not my first trailer hitch installation.
Their instructions are terrible, written by a non installer I would guess.
But if you are reasonably mechanically inclined and have basic tools (including torque wrench) one person can do it safely in an hour.
I had to grind down the large rectangular backing washer a fair bit to get it to fit through the sub-frame access hole.
All in all a great product. An aluminum version would be fantastic. My cost was US$290.00
Cheers, Roman
I discussed my trailer light hookup here: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=22683#p22683
Here's a poor quality photo showing where I mounted the Powered Taillight Converter:
The long wire leading to the trailer nicely tucks in aft of the wheelwell. If I had to do it over again, I would route the wire bundle going into the Converter up from in front of the wheelwell, as the plastic wheelwell cover presently pushes slightly against those wires coming up and might eventually chafe through.
Here's a poor quality photo showing where I mounted the Powered Taillight Converter:
The long wire leading to the trailer nicely tucks in aft of the wheelwell. If I had to do it over again, I would route the wire bundle going into the Converter up from in front of the wheelwell, as the plastic wheelwell cover presently pushes slightly against those wires coming up and might eventually chafe through.
For completeness, here's the link to Ben Nelson's great video about installing the trailer wiring harness into his i-MiEV:
http://300mpg.org/2016/09/12/imiev-trailer-wiring-installation/
For my own installation, for +12vdc I picked up the already-fused high-power wiring going to the audio amplifier located above the left wheelwell (two fat red wires fused by the car at 20A) in my SE Premium, as for me it was easier than stringing a wire all the way to the battery.
http://300mpg.org/2016/09/12/imiev-trailer-wiring-installation/
For my own installation, for +12vdc I picked up the already-fused high-power wiring going to the audio amplifier located above the left wheelwell (two fat red wires fused by the car at 20A) in my SE Premium, as for me it was easier than stringing a wire all the way to the battery.
Check your bolts from time to time. That big vertical frame bolt on the passenger side loosened up on me; it must not've been torqued tight enough due to the spinning nut up inside the frame. I'll see about welding a nut on top of a rectangular washer that's better-sized for the slot.
Jay, how did you notice it?jray3 said:
JoeS said:
Uh, when removing the hitch prior to pursuing a warranty claim for drivetrain vibrations... :roll:
You just had to ask!
The nut is inside the frame? That's unusual. On most hitch installations the head of the carriage bolt plus it's special washer is up inside the frame where it cannot turn and the nut is below on the frame of the hitch
I would have one of these on one of our cars, if they weren't $300. I just installed a very heavy duty Curt Hitch on my Transit Connect last week. The hitch is rated for 3500 pounds and a tongue weight of 500 pounds and it cost $125 with free shipping
I also installed the +12 volt powered tail light adapter for the trailer lights. The one I bought it made for the car and plugs in to the tail light harnesses, so the only wire you need to hook up is the +12 wire
Don
I would have one of these on one of our cars, if they weren't $300. I just installed a very heavy duty Curt Hitch on my Transit Connect last week. The hitch is rated for 3500 pounds and a tongue weight of 500 pounds and it cost $125 with free shipping
I also installed the +12 volt powered tail light adapter for the trailer lights. The one I bought it made for the car and plugs in to the tail light harnesses, so the only wire you need to hook up is the +12 wire
Don
PV1
Well-known member
Bear got hitched :mrgreen: !
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rum86mvah02d8wa/AAA7Y55HHknhCOk91FW-K_0Oa?dl=0
Some notes from the install:
1. The directions are out of order. Taking the four bumper bolts out before doing anything else makes it much easier.
2. When lifting the hitch into place, only attempt lining up the upper bolt on the L bracket. Put the other bolt in once the bumper screws are holding the hitch (leaving everything threaded but loose until all but the last bolt is in). If you try lining up the lower bolt, the hitch will hit the frame and won't go into place.
3. The last bolt, which goes through the sway arm bracket, required a ratchet strap to line up (as another member posted). Once it was in, i could only fit one flat washer and the lock washer on the nut side.
4. I had to file the opening a bit larger for the plate washer to fit into place (the B hole in the directions).
5. Having a second person is a must. A car lift is pretty nice, too.
6. Wear safety glasses. If road debris doesn't get you, the bolt fishing wires will.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rum86mvah02d8wa/AAA7Y55HHknhCOk91FW-K_0Oa?dl=0
Some notes from the install:
1. The directions are out of order. Taking the four bumper bolts out before doing anything else makes it much easier.
2. When lifting the hitch into place, only attempt lining up the upper bolt on the L bracket. Put the other bolt in once the bumper screws are holding the hitch (leaving everything threaded but loose until all but the last bolt is in). If you try lining up the lower bolt, the hitch will hit the frame and won't go into place.
3. The last bolt, which goes through the sway arm bracket, required a ratchet strap to line up (as another member posted). Once it was in, i could only fit one flat washer and the lock washer on the nut side.
4. I had to file the opening a bit larger for the plate washer to fit into place (the B hole in the directions).
5. Having a second person is a must. A car lift is pretty nice, too.
6. Wear safety glasses. If road debris doesn't get you, the bolt fishing wires will.
Hey PV1 - what luxury having a lot of indoor workspace and a car lift in your winter environment! Thanks for the notes and photos. Hmmm, wonder if they incorporated the notes I had sent them after doing my own installation? As you might have noted, I moved your post over to this more on-topic thread.
Two general comments:
1. Originally I had hoped that the hitch would be easily demountable, as lugging all that hitch weight back there all the time wasn't my cup of tea. Sadly, not to be, as that's too much work. I DO use the hitch at least once weekly, but mostly for trivial tasks.
2. Pity that the manufacturer still has not produced a hitch in aluminum. As it is, we're lucky to have this hitch at all for our limited-production car.
Two general comments:
1. Originally I had hoped that the hitch would be easily demountable, as lugging all that hitch weight back there all the time wasn't my cup of tea. Sadly, not to be, as that's too much work. I DO use the hitch at least once weekly, but mostly for trivial tasks.
2. Pity that the manufacturer still has not produced a hitch in aluminum. As it is, we're lucky to have this hitch at all for our limited-production car.
PV1
Well-known member
Ah, forgot about this thread. Thanks for moving.
It's better that the hitch is made of steel, as it won't corrode with the car's steel construction. It does seem overbuilt, as it is mainly four 12 mm bolts that hold most of the hitch in place. I'd almost rather the hitch fail than the frame of the car.
Being indoors was nice, but the other day when I originally planned on installing the hitch, it was 60 F outside and sunny. Too bad I was up quite early that morning and was too tired to install it. This was at my friend's shop (he does solar installs and eBike sales out of the building).
I can PM you a copy of the install manual I received with the hitch. I'll be sending them my recommendations, as well. Removing those bumper bolts was a pain with the hitch hanging in the way. It can't really hang from the L bracket, either, as the far end comes to rest on the plastic bumper cover.
I figured with the new vehicle warranty long gone, I could install the hitch with less hassle from the dealer. Of course, if I do have motor or battery problems, that thing is coming off before the car goes to the dealer. I don't have a light harness, so there's no way I could legally tow a trailer regardless. It's an "accessory hitch" .
It's better that the hitch is made of steel, as it won't corrode with the car's steel construction. It does seem overbuilt, as it is mainly four 12 mm bolts that hold most of the hitch in place. I'd almost rather the hitch fail than the frame of the car.
Being indoors was nice, but the other day when I originally planned on installing the hitch, it was 60 F outside and sunny. Too bad I was up quite early that morning and was too tired to install it. This was at my friend's shop (he does solar installs and eBike sales out of the building).
I can PM you a copy of the install manual I received with the hitch. I'll be sending them my recommendations, as well. Removing those bumper bolts was a pain with the hitch hanging in the way. It can't really hang from the L bracket, either, as the far end comes to rest on the plastic bumper cover.
I figured with the new vehicle warranty long gone, I could install the hitch with less hassle from the dealer. Of course, if I do have motor or battery problems, that thing is coming off before the car goes to the dealer. I don't have a light harness, so there's no way I could legally tow a trailer regardless. It's an "accessory hitch"
.blackheart
Well-known member
I'm hoping to get one of the Torklift hitches after tax time. Too many things going on this winter and only have outdoor installation possibilities. But looking forward to it.
Either that, or may end up designing a slightly lighter weight version myself.
Either that, or may end up designing a slightly lighter weight version myself.
I must relay an amazing customer service experience this week. Though Torklift has many long-term employees, they lost the two young ones that I began this odyssey with, so when I showed up to buy a truck part- a staffer that I didn't know gleefully exclaimed "You're driving an i-MiEV; our engineer has been looking for one of those!" After a re-introduction as their first i-MiEV hitch customer, they requested an opportunity to inspect and re-fit my hitch, as one had recently been returned by a Midwestern US customer due to poor fitment, and they wanted to double-check the design. SO, my hitch was inspected and re-installed with new bolts, all free of charge so that they could continue to guarantee the fitment of a rare hitch for an out-of-production car. (though there's a glitch with their online hitch finder right now, contact them if you want one.
(877) 343-6933
support-at-torkliftcentral.com
Makes me wish I had something else that needs to get hitched! Of course, I do, but its not quite ready yet.
(877) 343-6933
support-at-torkliftcentral.com
Makes me wish I had something else that needs to get hitched! Of course, I do, but its not quite ready yet.
iwatson
Well-known member
I just bought one for one of my imiev’ s and it was delivered about three weeks ago but I haven’t installed it yet. Every weekend it’s been cold wet and yucky, so I’m procrastinating until better weather arrives.
blackheart
Well-known member
iwatson said:
Here I am, another winter with my imiev, wanting to make some longer trips - and still don't have a trailer hitch installed, so I haven't thought any further about a pusher trailer either.... Let us know how your hitch installation goes!!!
blackheart
Well-known member
blackheart said:
And - to my dismay - Torklift has discontinued making the trailer hitch for the iMiev ;-(
