Possible to deactivate the Acc Power Auto Cutout function?

[4tun8]

Is it possible to deactivate the Acc Power Auto Cutout function myself (page 3-30 in the manual)? Is it something I can do myself (given the dealer is out of the car's range)?

 

[JoeS]

The underlying reason for this timeout function is that our 12v battery is very small and running the radio or other gadgetry for a few hours will deplete it. Without 12v, our little iMiEV won't wake up when the key is turned. For those who don't have their manual handy, here's what it says -

After about 20 minutes has elapsed with the electric motor switch in the "ACC " position, the function automatically cuts out the power for the audio system and other electric devices that can be operated with that position. When the electric motor switch is turned from the "ACC" position, the power is supplied again to those devices. NOTE: It is possible to modify functions as follows: The ACC power auto-cutout function can b e deactivated by a certified i-MiEV dealer.

Welcome to the 21st-Century world dominated by software. As with many programmable features/quirks of our little car, it requires a Mitsubishi MUT-3 "Diagnostic Tool" which runs on a Windows PC, together with special programming CDs/DVDs.

It would seem to me that this gadget would be a good candidate for a regional iMiEV group to chip in together and purchase.

To answer your question, no. You might see if an independent shop in your area has an MUT-3 with the appropriate iMiEV software. In the meantime, you'll have to keep re-turning the key every 20 minutes as you listen to your audio books (ouch, does that mean you have to find the selection again?)...

Hmmm, has anyone tried back-feeding 12v through the accessories outlet using a 12v battery?

On an associated note, I'm waiting with bated breath as our CAN experts continue their digging...

 

[fjpod]

You could always turn the key to the ready position for a few minutes to recharge the 12 volt.

 

[JoeS]

You could always turn the key to the ready position for a few minutes to recharge the 12 volt.

Ah, the simplest solution is often the best. So... a ~15-minute timer to remind you to flip from ACC to READY (even 30 seconds should suffice, then back to ACC) and you're in business for a few days' worth of uninterrupted listening.

 

[acensor]

You could always turn the key to the ready position for a few minutes to recharge the 12 volt.

Hey, you answered a question I was going to post, but no don't have to, I think:
It was "How does the 12volt battery get charged?"

Should've guessed it was off a transformer/interface to the main battery.

But I THOUGHT I read something about it running down even when the main battery has charge.
?

Alex

 

[JoeS]

Alex,
The 12v battery is charged from the traction battery pack via a regulated dc-dc converter when the vehicle is charging or when the key is turned to READY. The 12v battery can be depleted in a number of ways, the most common being if the vehicle is left unused for a while and the small standby (e.g., alarm system) current simply drains it. Without 12v, our iMiEV will not revive itself. Simply jumping from another 12v battery will make everything happy again, but with some degradation to the 12v battery that had been sitting depleted - this has happened to new cars in a number of instances mentioned on this Forum (dealer had to replace the 12v battery) where the suspicion is that the dealer had not exercised the cars while they were in storage (as fjpod said, all it takes is simply turning the key).

 

[aarond12]

How much power would we really use in Ready mode with the vehicle in park with the fan control off? That would keep the radio going as long as you want.

 

[Don]

It doesn't draw a lot of current, but it's not an insignificant amount either. Many things besides the radio are running when the key is left in the 'Ready' position

When the wife runs in a store for 5 minutes (which always seems to take 15 or 20) I sometimes wait in the car with the A/C running if it's a hot day - You can see the RR dial going down if you do that . . . . one mile every 15 or 20 minutes, depending. It sure beats sweltering on a hot Mississippi day though

Don

 

[JoeS]

Many things besides the radio are running when the key is left in the 'Ready' position...

430W. Here are the gory details:

http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7080#p7080

 

[aarond12]

That would be 430W - 240W (the ACC key position), or 190W. Seems relatively insignificant, especially if you like to eat lunch in the quiet of your car and don't want to keep cycling the key on and off just to keep the radio going. You have the added benefit of being able to put your windows up and down as necessary.

Edit: The 430W number was with DRL. The difference is likely somewhere around 50W.

 

[Don]

That would be 430W - 240W (the ACC key position), or 190W. Seems relatively insignificant, especially if you like to eat lunch in the quiet of your car and don't want to keep cycling the key on and off just to keep the radio going. You have the added benefit of being able to put your windows up and down as necessary.

Edit: The 430W number was with DRL. The difference is likely somewhere around 50W.

The DRL's draw 13 watts each

Don

 

[aarond12]

The DRLs draw 13 watts each

Math and I don't get along. Okay, the tally is now at 164W. I think. :|

 

[4tun8]

Thanks for all the valuable info. I am hoping to use an inverter on my i-miev's 12v battery to run my fridge... during a power outage. Can anyone tell me the best way to do that? The traction battery will need to be continuously charging the 12v battery - and it cannot cut out every 30 minutes. Should I disable the Acc power auto-cutout function or will that just kill the 12v battery?

Thanks again,

Robert

 

[PV1]

If the i-MiEV is plugged in and charging, the auto cutout is disabled.

To use the i-MiEV as a battery, hook your inverter to the 12 volt battery either directly out through the outlet on the dash. You need to leave the car in READY so that the converter is on and powering the 12 volt system. We're stuck with this route until Mitsubishi brings the MiEV box to the US, if they do.

 

[BarryP]

Thanks for all the valuable info. I am hoping to use an inverter on my i-miev's 12v battery to run my fridge... during a power outage. Can anyone tell me the best way to do that? The traction battery will need to be continuously charging the 12v battery - and it cannot cut out every 30 minutes. Should I disable the Acc power auto-cutout function or will that just kill the 12v battery?

Are you talking about your regular kitchen fridge? Say it takes 600W when it kicks on (be ready for a 1200W surge). Then 600W / 12V = 50A that your cabling needs to handle between your AC inverter and your battery. That’s assuming 100% efficiency. But allow for efficiency of 80% so choose a cable that can handle 60A—maybe 6AWG. So don’t go through the 12V outlet since that will pop our little 15A fuse so fast. It needs to be a direct-connect. Can our iMiev inverter handle that? I don’t know. Sounds risky. I see other options:
1. Invest in a propane generator. I prefer propane since a gas engine would shellac the generator with periods of no use. Also propane burns cleaner, more efficient, stores indefinitely, and cheaper than gas.
2. Move your critical fridge items to a 12V fridge that CAN be powered by a cigarette outlet: Coleman 40-Quart PowerChill Thermoelectric Cooler. This would put a 12V x 4A = 48W load in addition to the nominal iMiev load on the traction battery (depending how your key switch is used).
3. If you can get the 600W fridge idea to work remember the iMiev is burning another 300W. So you would have 16kWHr/(0.6kWhr + 0.3kWhr) = 18 hours minus another 10% of inefficiency or 14 hours of fridge time of which you could intersperse through a few days of not opening the fridge.
-Barry

 

[PV1]

Depending on the size of the fridge, 600 watts seems a tad high. Our old bear of a freezer only pulled 300 watts...it's replacement, 80 watts. Although, these are the frost-type freezers that don't circulate air, they only run the compressor and rely on convection inside and out.

It would be a good idea to make a trip to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a Kill a Watt meter. This handy little box plugs between the outlet and the appliance of your choice (I use one to meter my car's consumption when I'm level 1 charging away from home) and tells you voltage, amperage, wattage, power factor, and frequency, as well as total energy consumed.

Also, if you haven't yet invested in an inverter or have one on hand, your fridge will run much better on a pure sine inverter, vs. cheaper mod-sine inverters.

The i-MiEV's DC-DC converter puts out 80 amps, though I wouldn't want to run anywhere near that much current for too long.

 

[BarryP]

Depending on the size of the fridge, 600 watts seems a tad high. ...and pick up a Kill a Watt meter. ...

Yea, it’s probably marked on the back of the fridge. The govt estimates an average of 725W http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/estimating-appliance-and-home-electronic-energy-use. It might be 1300W https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070905001132AAVZMuE

Using a Kill O Watt meter is a good idea. If you can get a VA reading and not kW reading that would be closer to what your dc to ac inverter power is needed. For example, my dehumidifier in IL consumed 700W but used 1200VA. I don’t think my power company appreciated that Thus I would have to have a converter that can handle 1200 ‘VA’ to run my 700W dehumidifier.

-Barry

 

[PV1]

Yes, the kill a watt also shows VA. Just press the watt button twice.