Need suggestions for design of a charging circuit

[alohart]

After a year's trying to get approval for my building permit to install a charging circuit in my condo parking space, my application was finally approved! The installation of my charging circuit is tentatively scheduled to start in early September so that I should have a functional charging circuit when I return to Honolulu in late October. Hurrah! No more dependence on increasingly busy public charging stations. But now I will have to pay for the electricity that I use to drive This is no small matter with electricity costing around 30¢/kWh.

I will be using my EVSEUpgrade'd Mitsubishi portable EVSE, so I won't be installing a wall-mounted EVSE. Instead, I have approval to install one 208 v. L6-20R and one 120 v. 5-15R outlet in my parking space. A concern that I have is that my parking space isn't totally secure in that anyone could enter it and take what's not secured. Realistically, this is pretty unlikely, but it's something to consider. I would like to leave my Mitsubishi EVSE in my parking stall at all times, so how do I secure it? It is designed to hang from a hook by a cord. Maybe I could have an eye rather than a hook installed and somehow install a lockable cable instead of a cord on the EVSE body. Or maybe I could have a small lockable cabinet installed so that I could lock my EVSE inside the cabinet, with cutouts that would allow the power cord and charging cord to exit the cabinet. Any suggestions?

Also, it would be nice to have the power on a shut-off and timer. I want to shut off the power when I'm not charging so that no one else could use my outlets. I would like to be able to set the power to turn on and off so that I could easily control the charging time. Maybe a water heater timer would work. Any suggestions?

 

[jray3]

After the expense of running power, won't a $400 permanent wall-mounted EVSE like the Clipper Creek LCS-20 be worth the price?
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/charging-station-lcs-20-level-2/
A good (new) steel cabinet will cost as much as the EVSE, and a NEMA-rated stainless box to withstand the salty air would cost more than the EVSE.

 

[JoeS]

alohart, when I use my Mitsu EVSE in a questionable location I basically keep the EVSE in the car and only bring out two cables through the almost-closed window. You could rig up an old mechanical timer and also keep it inside the car, but that wouldn't solve your problem of having someone use your outlet - though, inside your condo, would that really be an issue? Guess you could get an outlet box with a bottom feed and a padlockable cover.

 

[Barbagris]

Your problem is common in my country.
The cheapest solution is a lock box:

It is not difficult to add a clock if required.

The best one, perhaps a EVSE with cellular communication (if there is coverage in the garage)

 

[PV1]

I would say pick up a JuiceBox. They have options for Time of Day control (so you probably could lock out other EVs from charging) for timer-based charging. The thing is, though, they use a 50 amp outlet.

Like you want to, I opted to use my EVSEUpgrade unit for home and road charging, since I don't really have the wall space for an EVSE, though the cord is small enough to fit on the wall in the garage. I installed an L6-20R face-down so the cord goes straight from outlet to box, and the EVSE hangs on two nails. The cord runs straight down the wall and out under the garage door to the car. I have a small box for the J-plug outside to keep it out of the weather with a hole cut in the bottom for the cord. The outlet is wired up to an On/Off switch and a 3-way switch so I can change between 120 volts or 240 volts with one outlet. Everything is rated 120/240 volt, 20 amps. Since the EVSE is the only thing we have that has a twist-lock plug (and it stays plugged in 99% of the time), I don't have to worry about something else getting plugged in (my family leaves the setup alone anyway). I also have a EKM meter on the lines to measure energy consumed by the car.

I think for your situation that a regular outlet might not have the protections you're looking for as to unauthorized use and theft (especially at 30 cents/kWh, ouch! That's almost $5 per full charge). It's a little tricky plugging a cell phone into an EVSE .

Joe, I do the same when using a wall outlet while charging in public, except I route my cables under the hatch. Last time I did that, though, was with a 14 gauge, 15 foot extension cord with the stock EVSE (8 amps).

If nothing else, you could invest in a padlock for the EVSE so that it can't be unplugged from the car.

 

[Don]

I would say pick up a JuiceBox. They have options for Time of Day control (so you probably could lock out other EVs from charging) for timer-based charging. The thing is, though, they use a 50 amp outlet

For an iMiEV, it would work just fine with a 15, 20 or 30 amp outlet - You only need a 50 amp outlet if you want to get more than 30 amps of charge current, and since we can't make use of any more than about 13.5, a smaller breaker would do just fine

Don

 

[RobertC]

I have approval to install one 208 v. L6-20R and one 120 v. 5-15R outlet in my parking space.

After the expense of running power, won't a $400 permanent wall-mounted EVSE like the Clipper Creek LCS-20 be worth the price?
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/charging-station-lcs-20-level-2/

I would also recommend purchasing an inexpensive wall-mounted Level 2 EVSE for several reasons:

1. The National Electrical Code (NEC 2014 Article 625.44(B)(1)) requires that the outlet for an electric vehicle be nonlocking. The NEMA L6-20R that you are proposing is a locking type outlet. A safety issue with a locking EVSE plug and outlet occurs if the EVSE cable gets pulled and pulls out the locking receptacle leaving exposed energized wires. All EVSE's are required to de-energize when exposed to strain. Portable EVSE's, like the one that came with your MiEV, are not required to de-energize when they are exposed to strain because they all have straight blade plugs, not twist lock plugs like the EVSE Upgrade. The new TurboCord comes with a straight blade plug. Tesla's portable EVSE comes with a straight blade plug.
2. If you install a wall-mounted EVSE for your parking space you won't have to worry about anyone else using it.
3. The EVSE Upgrade is not listed as required by the National Electrical Code. Licensed electrical contractors and electrical inspectors are required to follow the National Electrical Code.

Also, it would be nice to have the power on a shut-off and timer. I would like to be able to set the power to turn on and off so that I could easily control the charging time. Maybe a water heater timer would work. Any suggestions?

Home Depot sells an indoor water heater timer http://www.homedepot.com/p/Intermatic-40-Amp-240-Volt-Electric-Water-Heater-Time-Switch-WH40DL3/203557614#specifications that would work.

For your 120V outlet, the National Electrical Code requires it to be ground fault protected, weather resistant, and have a weatherproof cover. This while-in-use cover from Home Depot can be locked to prevent others from using it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Dot-1-Gang-Extra-Duty-Non-Metallic-While-In-Use-Weatherproof-Horizontal-Vertical-Receptacle-Cover-with-Wasp-Guard-CKPL/203984751?keyword=CKPL

 

[alohart]

I would also recommend purchasing an inexpensive wall-mounted Level 2 EVSE for several reasons:

The circuit installation is going to be very expensive as is. I don't want to increase my cost by purchasing an EVSE that I don't really need.

1. The National Electrical Code (NEC 2014 Article 625.44(B)(1)) requires …

These are some of the issues that delayed the approval of my building permit. In the end, the building permit I have is to install a 120/208 v. circuit for general use. If I choose to plug in my EVSEUpgrade'd EVSE or any other non-UL-approved device, that's a risk that I assume. I have indemnified my condo association for any damage that might result from this circuit, so everyone seems to be satisfied.

There have apparently been quite a few EVSEUpgrade'd EVSE's sold to EV owners with no serious problems that I'm aware of. AFAIK, a lockable plug has always been specified for Level 2 charging, and this EVSEUpgrade'd EVSE will never be UL-approved, so I guess electrical contractors would never be satisfied with them. I intend to leave my EVSE plugged in almost always, so I prefer a lockable plug. The i-MiEV won't start while being charged (or maybe if the J1772 plug is inserted - anyone know?), so the risk of my driving away with my EVSE plugged into my car seems minimal.

Home Depot sells an indoor water heater timer http://www.homedepot.com/p/Intermatic-40-Amp-240-Volt-Electric-Water-Heater-Time-Switch-WH40DL3/203557614#specifications that would work.

It would work, but the timer and outlets will be installed below waist level in a low light area. Setting the mechanic start and stop trippers prior to charging and removing them after charging if I don't want the EVSE to be powered every day thereafter could be inconvenient. I hope there's a better solution like a timer that operates only once rather than repeating the set schedule daily.

For your 120V outlet, the National Electrical Code requires it to be ground fault protected, weather resistant, and have a weatherproof cover. This while-in-use cover from Home Depot can be locked to prevent others from using it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Dot-1-Gang-Extra-Duty-Non-Metallic-While-In-Use-Weatherproof-Horizontal-Vertical-Receptacle-Cover-with-Wasp-Guard-CKPL/203984751?keyword=CKPL

Thanks for this suggestion! I don't know how my electrician plans to install both my L6-20R and my 5-15R outlets, so I don't know whether both could fit in this box. I think the outlets would need to face down (vertical) rather than out (horizontal) so the rather stiff power cord could exit the bottom of this box.

I need to be able to secure my EVSE at all times as well, so I like the idea of a lockable cabinet large enough to contain the outlets, the timer, and store the EVSE like the example that Barbagris provided.

Unfortunately, I'm halfway around the world from where this installation will occur, so I won't be able to be as involved with the installation as I would like.

 

[PV1]

The i-MiEV won't start while being charged (or maybe if the J1772 plug is inserted - anyone know?)

The i-MiEV will not start (though it will shift out of park) if the connector is plugged in, even if the cord isn't plugged into the wall. If the i-MiEV is READY, and you plug the connector in, it will come out of READY. This is good to know if someone tries to drive off in your car when you're unplugging from a charging station, just plug the connector back in and they aren't going far :lol: .

 

[Don]

There have apparently been quite a few EVSEUpgrade'd EVSE's sold to EV owners with no serious problems that I'm aware of. AFAIK, a lockable plug has always been specified for Level 2 charging, and this EVSEUpgrade'd EVSE will never be UL-approved, so I guess electrical contractors would never be satisfied with them. I intend to leave my EVSE plugged in almost always, so I prefer a lockable plug. The i-MiEV won't start while being charged (or maybe if the J1772 plug is inserted - anyone know?), so the risk of my driving away with my EVSE plugged into my car seems minimal.

I'm aware that the NEC says it shouldn't be a 'lockable' plug, but the lack of common sense here is just . . . . incredible! - Leave it to the government!! Laws require that the car can't be started if it's plugged in . . . . and then the laws require non-locking plugs so the cord will fall out of the outlet if the car is somehow driven away while plugged in

This is what you get when 'experts' who have no direct knowledge of the subject at hand are permitted to write the rules

It is apparently perfectly OK to supply an EVSE with the car which has no built-in means to hang it and equip it with a 5-15 plug which will FALL OUT of the outlet if slightly jostled hanging from the plug, but heaven help us if we use a plug/socket which is actually capable of supporting the weight of the unit hanging from the cord

Thank HEAVENS no professional electrician (or anyone representing the NEC) is ever going to inspect my garage

Don

 

[alohart]

It is apparently perfectly OK to supply an EVSE with the car which has no built-in means to hang it and equip it with a 5-15 plug which will FALL OUT of the outlet if slightly jostled hanging from the plug, but heaven help us if we use a plug/socket which is actually capable of supporting the weight of the unit hanging from the cord

My Mitsubishi EVSE has a couple of eyes on the power cord end through which a cord is threaded forming a loop that is designed to be used to hang the EVSE body from a hook. Nevertheless, I agree with your amazement that a lockable plug would violate code. EVSEUpgrade, I, and you apparently don't agree with this requirement.