Search results

Naah... Still no. I'm not worried though. All I ever wanted was a nice battery pack. Better if it was still running on its own wheels. Since it didn't, I just used the battery pack instead and gave the old donor even a worse pack.

See hiina puhur pigem mata maha, pole kuigi efektiivne. Been there, done that. Ainsana töötab sellel aparaadil vesi-diiselpõleti, kui korralikult ära kaabeldada. Welcome to the club - how much is the SOH on that thing?

Yeah probably last for some time. In my mind, the syatem doesn't like 0 current. So... just connect the 1kw line under the 2kw one and it should work just as well.

Decided to forfeit the search of the cause. Swapped the battery pack (soh 84%) from that one to one of my other one that had a pretty worn 55%.

Most probably the heater elements are dying. The heater should consist of three(!) heater elements - 4kW, 2kW and 1kW. The car starts up with 6kw (4+2), as it warms up, just a 4kW stays on. After that 3kw (2+1) and probably will idle at 2kw for some time. If it starts heating and at past some...

The code dissapeared from the dashboard, once the charger was replaced. I erased it later on myself and didn't reappear. But all-and-all it doesn't make any difference whatsoever if the car is isn't physically charging.

Does it have like... some contactors on the way from 220V charge socket to the OBC? The 220V charger clicks three times as if trying to send the juice but the car does not have the ability to take the juice.

Dc converter replaced, fault codes dissapeared from the dash. I cleared them from the MCU and they didn't reappear after the replacement. 12V charge is now OK and the car recognizes that there's a charger cable attached. Bad thing though is, I still cant get a charge from the socket. Replaced...

Yeah I checked both "floors". There's nothing bent, burnt, swollen. No markings of heat. Also there are signs that it has been opened before, I can see any sealant in between, the fuses seem okay, I will test them all later on.

Right now... the main fuse has no resistance... 0,03Ohms. To me its not the cause. Seems to work fine. I've remove the whole cover of the DC-DC converter, no burns, swells or explosions there. The machine moves, 12V works, it doesn't charge @ 1phase charger and it doesn't charge DC->DC...

Hmm... i did not seem to get any extra volts up front last time. It had only 10.8V left when I towed it home (a 3hr tow from a fully charged state). And I would not bet that the fast charger would work either. The 12V battery is just replaced brand new 35ah. I was betting all on the majn fuse...

Hello all, before I get my hands dirty and approach the miev from under... I have a error code P0A09, I have no charge on the slow 1-phase factory charger and the main battery does not charge the 12V battery (the red light is lit when in ingnition). I've bought a new 12v battery, the car starts...

China naturally

Getting my scanner soon, same issue on one of my Mievs - battery is half full and pushing flat out the turtle appears. Range is a mere 50kms only. First of trying to get a better view with the scanner of how many of the cells are out of order and how many are nearing their life cycle. Planning...

Good, thanks for rooting to the topic I think the most reasonable thing is to replace just the whole pack with 50Ah cells, as it was and gain back the original range ;)

Yeah well... there isn't that much money into it. The full amount of cells needed to construct the whole pack cost some 2500€. The only thing that's a bit worrying for me is the BMU side - if the BMU does not recognize the batteries at once after replacement. T h a t may be a time consuming effort.

So its pretty much straight forward - replace the cells and gain access to the BMU stating that you have changed the cells and the capacity from now on is as follows... right?

Are these 60Ah cells worth trying? I'm looking possibilities to replace a whole battery pack (all 88 cells). The battery prices have really gone down these days and worth trying with minimal hassle :D