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Part 3 ‘Man in the middle’ (coming soon) https://5by9.net/prune_batteries/mitm.html File in post #197 seems to be the latest version so far…

I’ll give it a try, how long do you recon I have to wait, does the car need to be charged 100% initially? [Edit] Left the car in READY for two hours and then checked the balancing status with Diagbox, all 88 of them were inactive? The car’s SoC was around 40% but maybe the reason this didn’t...

I did, but a triplet doesn’t balance in READY (according to flags read out with Diagbox), it only starts the process after being charged to 100% with the cable still plugged in. How long it tries to balance before it times out, I don’t know, hence leaving it ‘charging’ 24/7 afterwards is...

Leaving it on a charger 24/7 is pointless, but driving it a bit or turn on the heater to reduce the SoC every now and then, should work..

Water is conductive and just evaporates??

Simple 😂

If you have a consistent offset across the same cells @various SoC levels then it’s most likely a CMU issue. Anecdotal ‘evidence’ seems to suggest that the 4 cells modules are more likely to develop such issues although they use same PCBs (but with less components). I would therefore not rule...

Balancing is only done at the top after reaching 100% SoC, the pauses you mentioned are there to let the BMU determine (no load) voltage based SoC. The two four cell modules are no different than the other ten.

Nice summary, some clarifications: - no need to reset the battery capacity to 45Ah (value is ‘overwritten’ by the CAN bridge) - no CAN termination required as bridge ‘sits’ between nodes (unless your CAN shield provides galvanic isolation) - some clones (post 2012 IOn/CZero) run on 80 cells...

CanIon keeps a record of Ah changes, see ‘Ah history’ tab Turns out this wasn’t a CMU fault and a CAN bridge would not have been suitable to ‘fix’ this.. Looking at your screenshots, it appears that cells #41-43 are higher than the rest and therefore stopping the charge prematurely, balancing...

The CMUs provide cell voltage and temperature Information, while it’s simple enough to extend the lines to measure cell voltages, the (tiny) temperature sensors are actually located on the CMU boards? Had to google what a 1958 Peugeot 203 looks like, gorgeous car…

The I-MIEV stock radio came with a metal frame that fitted nicely into the stock facia, my first idea was to re-use the frame but I ended up modifying the facia instead. But maybe that will work for you (remove the frame from the original radio and fit the aftermarket version into it)?

There is no need for any ‘CAN-bus hoopla’, the stock FW will happily run even with higher capacity cells, only draw back is that one can only use the first 45Ah.. You may want to talk to this guy: https://myimiev.com/threads/i-miev-hot-rod-anyone.5072/

What about regen?

Should you not also be concerned about the main HV battery?

Where is the excessive play: frame/DIN or frame/headunit?

Did your new head unit came with a metal frame to fit into?

Have a read through below: https://myimiev.com/threads/main-traction-battery-upgrade-i-miev.5458/

It’s a tight fit for two adults in the back.. Not realistic expectations for a used triplet, unless you consider upgrading the HV battery to NMC cells If you’re willing to compromise on your range requirements or upgrade the cells, it might work out, otherwise I don’t think a triplet will be...

Are you driving a Mitsubishi PHEV? Although similar to an I-Miev, there are differences, might be best to ask the friendly guys on the Outlander forum..