Search results

Hi Coulomb: Your details regarding extreme situation that can occur across a fuse that is not rated to 450v, probably explains also what is happening with the 2x 1000pf caps in the dog house that are exploding. The caps are across the same high DC voltages in the output circuit that the fuse...

Hi Electropusher: The Mitsubishi part number for the original fuse is: #9499A656 I bought this from the local Mitsubishi dealership for $24 There was no stock in WA but there is some stock in SA, it it may day a few days to get to your location also. While I was waiting on the original 450v...

Hi KIEV / Coulomb: This second charrger that I am now working on, has all of the symptoms that the first charrger had. The 20 AMP 450V Fuse in the MCU was blown, and the SMD Caps on the vertical pcb in the dog house were blown up. I've de-soldered the verticle pcb and replaced it with two...

Just got a phone call from another AEVA Member here in Western Australia that said her charger has also died in here 2010 I-MIEV. Looks like these are dropping like flies. She will be sending me a photo of the top of the charger so I can check the part number and see if its same version as the...

Electropusher: The charger label on your charger has the same Mitsubishi part number 9481A092 as the charger that I just repaired. Both are in 2010 I-MIEVs here in Australia that were built in Japan. You also have the vertical PCB with blown caps in the dog house, VS the older style that had...

Hi Electronpusher: <edit> just read your other thread Are you able to determine if the 20 amp fuse is blown that is under the small cover on top of the motor controller box to the left of where the charger is? The fuse contains sand, so you can't just look at it, you have to use an ohm meter...

I've run the repaired charger now for a few days, and it seems to be stable, so smoke has come out so far ;-) Now that I have a working charger and a test bed, There are a few things I am interested in testing. 1) I've heard several people say that the charger will run even with a DC Voltage...

So I decided to bit the bullet, and re-install the charger back into the car and test it out. Once I got through fitting it, I turned the key and car went to "READY" with no errors on Dash. I checked the 12v battery and could see it was sitting at 14.4v so it looked like it was charging ok...

Hi KIEV: "The output current is read across R232 which is near the base of the output cap, C115. It looked scorched to me in one of your photos." The writing on the part looks like BL 00 What value do you think this resistor should be?

Coulomb: I like your saying " Endeavor to persevere " reminds me of the Clint Eastwood movie where the old Indian had the piece of red rock candy that was not for eating, it was just for looking at. With all this amount of hours between you and Kenny and myself, don't want to get too anxious ...

Hi KIEV: While checking over your drawings you just sent, I was looking over the section on the bottom PCB next to CN1 Connector. I spotted a resistor that was a bit diagonal and when I checked from the pin of the IC to the VIA I found it was open. one side was not making contact to the pads...

Maybe the CHGP Signal is like a dead mans switch. If any of the pulses on the input of the 123 are missing, then the CHGP Signal goes away, and the EV-ECU Turns off the OBC Relay 12v supply. That is why I could get the EV-ECU to switch on the OBC RELAY when I connected my ohm meter to the CHGP...

I did a test, where I connected 240VAC Mains to the terminals on the top pcb, then checked the voltage across the three big electrolytics, same as before, and measured 344.6vdc I then connected the 12v supply to pin 7 of CN101 and measured the voltage across the electrolytics again, and it was...

[EDIT]: Just as I posted this, I just noticed KIEV has just traced out the same CHGP Signal, so my post is a bit redundant. I've just made a discovery by accident. All of the below checking is with charger out of the car. I measured the resistance between the Earth Ground Pin, and the...

I finally got things setup to look at the pins of TR310 on the bottom board with the scope: So this looks like TR310 is chopping ok, now I need to pull it apart and find out what test points to test for the other supplies.

Hi KIEV: Yes, my TOP Board appears to be same Version/revision as your picture. Starting with the charger on Bench with nothing else connected, I've made up a cable and I'm supply 13.0v from a motorcycle battery to Pins 12 and 7 of CN101 with ground connected to pin 6. I still have the wires...

When I first checked the fuse, I thought it was blown, but then I scratched the end/pads because they looked like conformal coating, and once I cleaned up the end, it showing 0R so the fuse has not been blown on my unit. That conformal coating can throw you off if not cleared off.

Here is a drawing showing the signals from the rest of the car through the E-03 Connector outside of the charger box, to the CN101 Connector that plugs onto the top PCB. I have two chargers, one a Late 2010, and one an Early 2010. The CANBUS Comes in on E-03 pins 6 and 13 and runs to CN101...

Hi Kiev: It's amazing your tracing across the fine pitch 50 way connector. I've run a few test so far, at a snails pace, disconnecting the top board, standing it up vertically so i could solder wires to the pins on the two white strips, that run to a block of screw terminals, then put it all...

KIEV: Thanks for all those VIN numbers, with all of these, surely the 2nd hand parts places should find a database match. are all of those 2012 models or are they different year models? COULOMB: Looks like creating a test circuit is way harder then I thought. Maybe when the charger is...