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ChristoferFR: It's a good thing Coulomb pointed out that you have the battery polarity wrong. Connecting it the way you show, will blow the diode, and that particular diode is a bit hard to identify. I think we might suggest putting a resistor in series with the battery in future...

Electronpusher: Probably the reason you are having difficulty with desoldering the riser PCB is that you have to remove solder in 8 places, not just 4. Out of each of the 4 holes coming out of the main PCB, there are 8 pins, 2 pins come out of each hole. One pin solders on top side of...

Hi Electronpusher: From the photo you just posted, it looks like you have all the screws removed, but have not unscrewed/removed the four hex standoffs. Even though it looks like the standoffs do not make contact to the PCB, They actually mount the heat sink to the box below, and since the PCB...

Quix: It sounds like the dealar has changed out the fuse but it may have blown again since they did not fix what causes the fuse to blow. You cannot just look at the fuse to see if it's blown, because the fuse is filled with sand. You have to use an ohm meter and check for close to zero ohms...

Electronpusher: When I ran into problems getting the original 20 amp fuse, I bought the 10x38 fuse type that you showed in your last post. To be able to use it, I also bought a DIN fuse holder, and ran wires from the fuse holder with small ring terminals that would screw down to the original...

Footswitch: When I cut one of the CANBUS lines, I was busy checking that the LED that I added to confirm that the doghouse relay was closing (which it did not do) so I was standing at the back of the car. I was able to hear the contactors and fan go on, so I knew that AC input was detected, but...

On the second OBC that I just finished working on, I've been told that the charging failed during a night that there was a storm and heavy rain. This could point towards a blackout, brownout, or power surge as the source of the falult. The 12v AUX battery had been replaced 2 years ago by RAC...

One really annoying thing that I have is the fact that so far, we can't get a OBC to actually run on the bench, without being re-fitted in the car. I've supplied the two 12v supplies to the top pcb, and 240vac to the input of the OBC, but the OBC sits there doing nothing. In particular, I see...

Hi KIEV / Coulomb and other distinguished quest: It looks like I've been able to successfully repair this second OBC that I have been working on. So the list of TRUE faulty parts were the 20 AMP fuse in the MCU, The two 1000pf snubber caps in the doghouse, The Relay, and one of the 4.7R...

Hi Coloumb / KIEV: I mentioned earlier that during the testing of the relay in the doghouse, that I accidentally blew up the protection diode on it's coil by putting wrong polarity during the test. I found a simular diode in a piece of scrapped equipment and replaced it with that while waiting...

Hi Christophe: The fault with your charger might be a bit different to the ones I am working on. It sounds like DC-DC is still working which means the 20 amp fuse has not been blown. It also seems to detect when AC is connected. "The apparent diagnosis: when I plug my charging cable, the...

Hi Electropusher: If you look at Ohm out the riser vertical PCB, you will find as per KIEV's schematic, that the SMD Caps emulate the two original through hole caps, which connect to the main board by four holes. I thought these were in series with each other, but the track routing on the main...

Did a really lengthy post about answering some of Electronpushers questions, but took too long and the form timed out and I lost it all. So heres an abbreviated version "Do we need to remove the black stuff in the dog house, or can we mount the new snubber caps on the riser (I know the...

Hi Coulomb: I'm glad we have these little chats, Too bad I did the relay test, before I discussed with you what I was going to try. I did see that the relay coil (on the relay itself) was not polarized, and I had the top PCB disconnected, and the waffle board removed, so I did not think...

Hi KIEV: All of my posts from 29th of August onwards are regarding this 2nd OBC 17 SKYLOGGER#2 that I've been working on. The first OBC 13 had the Twisted 39k resistor, blown 2x 1000pf caps in the doghouse and the 20 amp fuse in MCU Blown. That was all that was required to get it running again...

For the 4.7R resistor that I found blown in the doghouse, I found a DIGIKEY A102487-ND This is rated at 7 watts, and has same axial 5mm pitch mounting and 14mm width so it looks quite simular to the original part. For the relay, I found a DIGIKEY Z6355-ND Which is an OMRON G2RL-1AE-ASI I made...

electronpusher: I had same problem with fuse, I placed an order with Mitsubishi Dealership here in WA, But they said it would take a week to get the stock from SA. Maybe I grabbed the last one in stock in WA. So I did not want to wait for that to arrive to start testing, so in the meantime...

I've come across some faulty componens now. These have probably just blown up due to me jumping the gun and not taking Coulomb's advice and using a current limited powersupply during testing. Since the charrger has now stopped detecting AC comming in, I decided to check the AC input part of...

Hi KIEV: You can add this second Charrger that I am working on as #17 on your Index on this thread. I've used Coulomb's suggestion, and I've replaced the 20 amp fuse in the MCU on the I-MIEV that I am using as a test bed with a fuse holder and a 1000v rated 20 amp fuse that is commonly used...

Hi KIEV: As you suggested, I've been checking the small components around T501 And T502 I've noticed that around T501 is the Q502 with Diode D505 Across pins 1 and 3 of the transistor. I have my meter set to DIODE checking mode, and I am measuring 0.068 in BOTH directions across Diode D505...