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I charged the aux on the bench last night using my house inverter set for lead acid open cell, 20A charge rate in stage 1 til it got up to voltage, then held at 14.4 V with controlled amps for an hour, then float for about 15 mins. It was reading 13.1V this morning after being plugged in all...

Back to square one .. Car was still charging when I went to bed (about 2 hours in) but gauge showed zero bars with flashing pump. Got up this am charger had kicked out but only 3 bars showing. Hooked up my RC LIPO charger to aux and it read 14.2V. Checked charger again it had clicked on while I...

Charged aux out of car, put it back, car is now taking a charge. But if dc-dc box is shot then aux will not be charged thru main while charging or driving right? And it will run down leaving me stranded even if main is still good? Car purchased in FL is in Bahamas voiding Mits warranty...

Well the new aux was sitting for about a month before install but I figured it would charge with the main pack. And yes I probably ran it down some when I had the lights on. So I removed aux and have it on a charger now. When it's fully charged I will put it back in car and see what happens...

Well after starting a charge cycle, the charger kicked out after a few minutes and now it will only stay in charge mode for a few seconds. Each time the charge starts normally .. The Orange and green are on, the cooling fan comes on, then after 30 secs or so the charger goes into ready mode. So...

Due to an illness and then a hurricane, I let my car sit in an enclosed garage with what I thought was a full main batty and a disconnected aux battery for over a year. Replaced aux battery, car went to ready status ok, but fuel gauge showed no bars. Put car on charge, charger kicked out within...

I have it all rigged up and tested (with lights only ... and for some reason they come on and off, something to do with a load sensing feature on the inverter and the fact that most of our lights are LED) .. I have not tested it under load and have not really had a reason to. My one concern is...

My problem is my car is at vacation home on an island in the Caribbean. No Mitsubishi dealer there. Bought a blank "chipped" key off Ebay and tried to get it cut. No go. Island locksmith says he can't do it. Texas locksmith says he won't do it. Mitsubishi dealer says "you have to bring the car...

It just scrolls through the list of codes. I am trying to ascertain what they mean and then to reset them. I drove the car 50 miles and pulled the codes again with the same result

The car runs fine. I used an "Oxgord" scan tool I bought off eBay. It seemed to function as it should reading the instructions. Only the reset codes came back with a "fail" message and the check engine light is still on.

Bought a scanner and pulled codes: u2821 c2584 p0000. Tried to erase got an "erase fail" My table does not list these codes. Any help would be appreciated.

Well we are going to find out what this big battery/little battery setup can do. I may put a second lead acid battery in parallel with the car's 12v battery to provide for some surge demand but in the final analysis the average draw has to be under 80A at 12V otherwise the dc to dc transformer...

I am not familiar with that device/software but it sounds like something I should have as there is no dealer in the Abacos.

Batty went flat because vehicle stood for 3 months at vacation home. Next time I will disconnect or leave on trickle charge. Is there no way to reset?

12v battery went dead. Jumped it and left key in ready for 30 mins. Then completed charging with ext charger. That all went fine. Plugged main charger in and in a mental slip turned key to on then to ready. Check engine light (stop car and call dealer light came on). Switched key off and...

My inverter will support 3000W continuous, 9000W for 20 seconds. It is also a solar controller so I could do the solar trickle thing (which would also recharge the IMieV 12v battery if the ignition was off) but realistically that only makes sense if you are using solar power all the time. Using...

I figure as long as I stay below the current limit on the on-board DC converter (I believe it's 80A), I can tap the car's 12V battery to power emergency circuits in the house. This yields about 1000W I think. Small surges should be possible as the battery will support several hundred amp load...

Using this in Bahamas for backup only... the power goes out a lot and I need to keep fridge, TV, water pump and some lights (all on a separate emergency panel) on for up to five days ... and you can't sell power back to the grid in that country so no point in gearing up for that. At some point I...

Mitsubishi says they are working on a US version of the powerbox, or at least trying to figure out whether there is any demand for it. Meanwhile I am going to try to draw up to 1000W through the 12V circuit (hook up to the 12V battery) and see how well that works.

can this diode/whatever be disabled and at what risk?