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Post #5 above…

Yes, almost; charging stops once one cell reaches around 4.1V Yes, that’s to be expected if you have a permanent fault I’m afraid so, but that’s something that can be fixed a lot easier than a HV battery fault.

Thanks for confirming Did you follow the instructions on the video? How many cells does the app report? I think you need the paid version for full functionality, same applies to the Car Scanner app which has been reported to be easier to use btw.

Good to know, any chance you can try it out with all the ‘approved’ triplet apps (CanIon/ODBZero/Car Scanner/Hobdrive)?

Based on the limited information provided, it has been suggested that very likely the issue was misdiagnosed by the dealer and there is nothing wrong with the HV pack, but rather than heeding the advice you keep repeating the same story over and over? Yes, that’s the way it works unfortunately...

Hello and welcome to the forum I’d say they used a degreaser to clean it but didn’t actually lubricate it properly afterwards, but you can do this easily by yourself: Most likely indeed… Mickey

That’s something I always planned to do but never did, what exactly did you use, how long did it take?

Pushing the button on the driver’s door locks/unlock them all, all other buttons work individually…

Yes, but you won’t find it in the BMU screens you posted; it’s displayed in General/Charge and should show above 14V DC when READY. What value are you getting? No need for MUT3, HobDrive has a similar function called ‘Capacity Measure’

I take it you don’t measure the 14.4V OBC voltage across the battery terminals with the car in READY then? Might not be obvious now but certainly worth in the long run, get a new 12V aux and fully charge it externally before swapping it. There is a thread that deals with the OBCs DC/DC circuit...

Their stock app doesn’t seem to be working with a triplet, you’ll need Car Scanner or Hobdrive to read/clear DTCs, check out the videos in link (post 8)

No point in guessing, connect to the car, read DTCs, write them down, then try to clear, whatever codes return afterwards will need to be investigated so just post them here…

If the car was standing for months with the 12V aux connected (and deep discharged) then it’s time for a new one, regardless what the recovery guy says. https://www.gogreenautos.co.uk/how-tos/mitsubishi-i-miev-12v-auxiliary-battery

Early days.. Might just be the battery calibration that’s out of whack after standing idly for so long Smart choice, see great video series by @Rational using an OBDLink LX with various ‘triplet approved’ apps (post #9)...

It’s the High voltage warning light, you need your OBD reader to get the DTC code(s) for further information. The triplets are a bit selective when it comes to OBD devices, unless you have already tried and tested your reader, it may be tricky to get the fault codes.

Hi Not sure about the Peugeot but on my (2011 built) I-MIEV there is no need to push the brake pedal for the car to go READY. One thing to check is that the gear indicator on the dash shows “P” and stays that way. What is normal 12V Aux for you? Any other indicators on the dash light up when...

A brand new battery only has a usable capacity of around 14kWh therefore a reading of 16kWh isn’t realistic..

You’re better off spending the money a dealer is changing you for a once off ‘inspection’ on a suitable OBD dongle/app and check it yourself. https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/

Hello and welcome to the forum The short answer is no if you mean driving at highway speeds. A new i-MIEV had a usable battery capacity of around 14kWh, a lot less than a 1st gen Leaf (22kWh). Mickey

Hi Did you try below? https://citroen-shop.eu/gb/blog/instructions/how-to-find-the-colour-code-of-my-car Mickey