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Well, it isn't always that much. (EVgo can cost that, if you don't get one of the higher-level plans.) But I believe his point was just, that even at those rates, it would take a long time for the portable CHAdeMO unit to pay off (~400-500 sessions), if you look at that as the alternative. For...

AFAIK they're the same year to year. It would be down to individual differences (CHAdeMO or not, Nav or not, mileage, etc.).

My understanding is that the i-MiEV has much better battery cooling than the Leaf, and consequently fewer problems of this nature. But I'm just going by forum comments.

Heh, well, I don't think they "created" anything but the paint job; it's just a regular i-MiEV. But, that's the beauty of electricity -- so many ways to generate it. ;)

Even if you did hit a sensor error near the time of the inspection, surely you could remedy it before taking the car in? This just strikes me as an unlikely problem. It is that way here in Maryland -- one inspection when the car is brought into the state; otherwise nothing but emissions tests...

Goofy. I haven't had a problem with my 2012, with at least four different models of CHAdeMO chargers . Edit: Ooh, I found this statement on the EVrus web site: "The EV Express 25 kW is equipped with a CHADeMo connector, which is common for Nissan Leaf, Kia EV Soul, Mitsubishi i-MiEV, Toyota...

Maybe I'm too picky, but I'd really prefer a lead-free design.

On the contrary, to me this looks totally compatible with the trash-bagged cars we've seen.

So, kinda basic, but... any advice for getting the bracket off of the positive terminal? I got the negative line off easily, and loosened the screw on the positive line so it turned left and right, but I couldn't get it to move up and off. I tried prying it up with a screwdriver a bit (saw...

Where do you find those in the wild, though? I mean, apart from Tesla-supplied equipment. And are there yet any non-Tesla cars that can charge at more than 40A AC? It seems almost like a theoretical part of the standard more than an actual one.

I'm the pessimist on these things, but I don't think that will be totalled. I can't even see any damage in that pic. I'm sure it's all scraped up, though.

Yeah, but the SUV is more "manly". No, really, that's why people buy SUVs. <sigh>

They're almost certainly going to declare it totalled. :( Maybe you can find some help here: http://www.pluginnc.com/

So tiny, the wheels...

L2 charging is more efficient than L1 (i.e. it takes less overall power from the wall to achieve the same state of charge). And my L2 EVSEs (first OpenEVSE, now JuiceBox) have never gotten warm to the touch (although the temperature reported by their internal thermometers does rise, but it...

Just because you lost 3 miles on the Range Remaining indicator, doesn't mean you actually lost any range. Get more accurate readings (from e.g. Canion) before you do anything drastic, at least.

I've been told that it's 16 amps. Not verified by me. 16 amps is also supposed to be the max for Level 1 charging according to the j1772 specs. But apparently that limit is widely ignored.

Clipper Creek offers the same models with 6-50 plugs, so I doubt that the 14-50 versions rely on having a working neutral. "CC is a trash charger" is, shall we say, an extreme outlier opinion. Clipper Creek is the most reputable EVSE manufacturer, period. (I say this despite not having owned...

It's possible that most of that "notch" was already gone when you started. Plus we know the gauge is non-linear. I think you'll need a more accurate way to measure the car's charge. (Canion?)

Curious, these differences between the LHD and RHD versions. I'd have thought they'd just flip everything.