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Okay. Lunch break is over. Going to continue. I guess I'll reconnect the UVW leads and see if the errors reappear after having been gone before. I wonder if I can start the car in N and see if it won't error and actually spin the rear wheels?

Here are the results of the tests between the UVW leads. Between G-07 and G-08. Between G-08 and G-09. Lastly between G-07 and G-09.

Here's a short video of me testing the rear tire turning ability in order to test the motor and reduction gear for damage.

Just sharing some initial findings this morning. I've disconnected the three motor wires from the MCU: G-07/G08/G09. At first it was still throwing the same check engine light and P1A2A error codes when shifting from P to R. On 2-3 attempts and clears. BUT, when I put it into N and cleared...

Oh, interesting. On a used motor that paper factory tag containing the initial phase angle is long gone I'm guessing though right? So I wonder how to obtain it? Looks like I can get the current phase angle from my current motor somewhere in the "service data" when doing an OBD reading with...

Yes, I do want to make further progress today so will also run these tests so as to give more information on the motor condition. These are excellent recommendations and should give some insight into those components at least. One question on this though. Why disconnect the big cap? Will things...

Yes, I'm also suspecting the old/original MCU control board at this point. I also thought last night that perhaps the control board got damaged during the surge that damaged the IGBT. It's not intentional nor desired on doing extra work. I'm just trying to make progress during the daylight I...

Yes. The car starts to ready mode without issue. It is not on during the initial start. Yes. The yellow car with exclamation mark comes on only immediately after I shift it into R or D. I have cleared codes many times after the error lamp shows up and the DTCs are identical to this: Same...

One curious thing I found in Car Scanner under the all sensors page is that only two of the IGBT temperature sensors read full temp. The other one reads a very low temp. Do you guys also see this when you run it on your cars? IGBT 1 temperature reads -1.67 C. Yet IGBT 2 temperature reads 29...

Funny you should mention this page. I was just looking at it in the online manual. But I wasn't realizing I could disconnect the three motor wires and see if the codes remain or not. So that's a good test then if so. I could disconnect the main fuse and make sure there's no voltage inside...

Oh, I hadn't noticed prior screenshots had said it was 16kWh. I only noticed the 88 cells up until today. What was leading me to believe it was only a 10 kWh battery was the OBDZero page showing it as only 10.5 here: Is this a default I need to change or something for it to show accurately...

Yes, here above is what I got during the first scan after replacing the MCU. Then after clearing the codes and trying to move the car in reverse and drive. Then this is the result after clearing the codes again. But it still throws an engine exclamation point light and the P1A2A errors...

Okay. Well in that case, I have a second MCU inbound still as I ordered two. I guess I could just swap that in as is, unopened and see what codes show up. Car won't move though right if the chassis numbers don't match? So I'll have to reprogram it if so before it will move? Man.. I hope my...

I'll have to raise my diction I see. I should have said, "Is the 16kWh model seen in my picture here one of the 'better' chemistry formulations that comes with the miev?" E.g. I thought it was standard that these came with 10kwh batteries, not 16kWh as seen on the label, right? So I was...

Well, it didn't fix it. :( It's doing exactly the same thing as before. So I guess it's one of three potential causes: 1. The new MCU has blown IGBTs as well. (Unlikely. But I'll check). 2. The original controller board is also damaged. So the problem followed it into the new MCU. 3. The motor...

This a good battery model? Label says 16 kWh 9498D531. Edit: Actually I think it is 9499D531. Is this all the info I need to determine the battery info or is there a better label somewhere?

Well, it’s on now. By the way, Dont over tighten the bolts. I sheared one off very easily with just moderate force. Now to figure out how to open the hatchback… Later edit: I just connected the 12v aux battery and it opened right up. I don't think it really threw any new DTCs when I finally...

Thank you for that. Looks like all I can get right now today is threebond 1215 gray. I’m about to apply it now. This work in a pinch? I’ll get some of the stuff you recommended above though on order right away. Thank you.

The MCU has arrived. Time to get it installed. Muwahahahahahaha........ Sadly the threebody 1073f sealant is not here yet. Hmmm... I don't want to install it without the sealant only to have to remove it again later to do the sealant. Is there some other sealant I can use instead?

Man... hasn't been much I can do while waiting for the replacement MCU to arrive. Also been busy with work and stuff. But I hope to see the first MCU arrive perhaps today. If so I'll get right on swapping it out! :) Gotta get the trunk open first though... :P I might just connect up the 12v...