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I believe it was 14.7 when I measured. 15.5 really sounds much. Extremely low temperature during charging could explain it probably. But I believe it is the same circuit that charges the 12V battery when the car is in the ready mode and when the HV battery is charging, so it sounds strange...

So you didn’t change anything, only new battery solved the issue, right?

It was obvious visually that both of them were gone. The one on the external board leaked some brown liquid that left deposit on the board on the right side in the picture. Also, grey plastic leaked on the right side, similar color as yours. The one on the lower board was less obvious, it was...

The fuse was intact. What do you mean regarding the relay? I see you have already checked it since you wrote resistance with the relay on and off. I did the same way and got similar values

I took these ones. Note the location of the pins, you need to be extra careful in those areas when you remove the old cap so you don’t damage the pins, since you want to solder to it later https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/R533R422050P0K

Yeah, that cap is shot. It is however unclear how it affects the charger, as discussed previously in the thread. If it burns open it should “only” cause a higher electromagnetic interference and if it burns closed the fuse should blow. Might be that it burns halfopen and causes excessive heating...

Can you make a better close up picture of that area? The color of “puke” looks similar to what leaked from my X2 capacitors

Regarding the obd tool your only option is Car Scanner ELM OBD2, but it requires the expensive OBD-link dongle. There is also Hobdrive paid version but that is not an option, because russian Удачі з пошуком поломки і ремонтом!

It looks to me as if the X2 capacitor is blown. I had the same issue and change it but not 100% sure if it was causing the charging problem, had also a bad contact to the 12V battery, as identified later. If it is blown may be worth to change it before assembly. But the 12V battery needs to be...

I am following this thread with a big interest. Good job everyone involved! Regarding the update of the battery max capacity due to degradation with time: can't the maximum capacity be updated from comparing the decrease of SOC between several measurements and how much energy was used according...

I think the author of the original post refers to using a timer for starting the charging after midnight, not terminating it in the middle. So I don’t think there is any risk of using a timer for this application. It would be the same as to connect the cable first to the car and then to the...

Update: Replaced two X2 caps with new ones. Was hard to desolder from the small "external" board even with a soldering station, lots of thermal mass around (and also a wrong soldering iron tip). At the end ripped the X2 apart and thought to practice before doing the same with the lower board in...

https://finndel.no/bildeler.aspx?dk=0233&bk=3728&srt=0

I see there are several user OBC units in Norway for around 800$ but that would probably cost a fortune to send to US (I guess you are located there)

Thanks for the advice. I did check for dry solder and bad joints but will check it again. As I said, I opened the OBC just to check if some obvious failure was there. Though blown X2 capacitors should in theory do not lead to the charger not working, it doesn’t feel right to just close it and...

The ZNRs and the SA look ok to me, no visual signs of damage Hires 3 I am a bit reluctant to change lots of stuff not knowing if it causes any issues but it is probably the only way forward dealing with intermittent failures. I should have checked the error codes before starting the repair...

I see that the pictures were attached as low resolution images, here are the links to the same pictures in high res Highres 1 Highres 2

Here are two pictures of the board. No continuity between L and N. But it might be that after running for a while the cap gets hot and shorts those contacts briefly and that is what turns it off. Hard to diagnose an intermittent failure…

I get 9.7 Ohms without energizing the relay and 0.2 when energized. So the resistors seems to be ok. One of them is discolored due to the cap exploading on it, but probably it is fine. So the next step is to exchange the two caps and assemble everything back if there are no other suggestions.

Ok, so just so I get it right, the top board has to be connected to the bottom board by the ribbon cable. All other cables to the boards can be disconnected, e.g. the boards already removed from the case? I measure the resistance between the cable terminal you showed and the four solder joints...