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Hi All, One of our i-miev clone fleet has suffered a broken spring that opens and keeps open the AC charge port open (when unlocked) and I can't find anything on line about it other than... Without it, f you close the lid properly, it is v difficult to get it open again when unlocked...

Indeed - Interesting that this is the second one to fail on this 2009 car (29k km).

Just noticed I wrote '2024' as the last time I fixed this car in my OP - it was actually 2020... and ~5000km later. I also re-visited the thread on spekev (https://www.speakev.com/threads/i-miev-with-failing-battery-another-cmu-ltc-chip-failure.144620) and see that the 'confused' screenshot of...

(Hi Gary - We had drifted a bit off topic - I'm interested in the CAN bridge thing generally but agree that a 'proper' fix is the best route, if practical). So, I tried a new and topped up 12V battery and it made no difference (as suspected but you never know!) I also tried again with the...

Do you mean Bowden cables?

Excellent, thanks for the link. Is this the same technique that others have used to get much bigger HV packs (using new cells) to supply their full capacity to converted cars?

Thanks, Kiev. I'll try a new 12V battery next. Do you know how Canion calculates the total HV battery voltage (same question ie by adding all the individual cells or reading it as you suggest from somewhere else)? I agree about the MUT3 but it is *really* tedious to use and all the data is...

Is the overall HV battery voltage just summed from the individual cell readings or measured separately? Just wondering if I were to add up all the cell voltages and it does not equal the pack voltage that that might suggest one sort of fault rather than another... I tried it again this morning...

Thank you. The fact that the car (which is a very early 'pre-production' version - one of its quirks is that its AC charging is 'dumb' ie it does not conform to the 62196 standard) has had a previous incidence of a failed chip on one of the HV battery module BMS PCBs (the CMU LTC chip I...

My poor old (SSE liveried) 2009 i-MiEV has developed a fault again having been my daily driver since I fixed its CMU LTC chip failure back in 2024 when I first bought it as a non-runner. It won't go to 'Ready' and nor will it charge AC charge. If I try to start it, the HV battery fan comes on...

Hi, How do you actually do this with a European version of the i-MiEV/clone? Just supply 110VAC to the AC charge socket?

If you want to match EV charge rate to PV output, there's also: https://store.openevse.com/collections/all-products/products/advanced-series-48a-level-2-nacs-assembled Again, a min of 6A applies.

A classic issue with Type 1 (J1772) plugs is that if the plug is dropped on its 'nose' (ie the latch), it gets bent towards the plug sufficiently that the latch does not drop down fully reliably when plugged in to the EV's socket. This means the plug's internal microswitch does not operate and...

Don't press the button when inserting the plug...? It only needs pressing to remove the plug.

US versions have different bodies (wider - can't think why...?). So be careful...

Given how well this issue has been covered here and on speakev, I would recommend just doing the resistor fix anyway. If it does not work, you have only put in 12p worth of resistors and a couple (ok, maybe 4 if you haven't done it before) hours of your time. I've done 2 now and both have been...

"...dangerous resistor bodge" - What's 'dangerous' about it?

eBay it! I've been following used i-MiEV/iOn/C-0 prices for years (I first bought one 10 years ago and run 2 with another 3 here on the island including my original now with a different owner) and it still staggers me how well they have held their value (since they dropped below 10k at least)...

Where are you? The likely cause of the issue may be related to your location (country) and that country's type of wiring/socket design. The key question I suspect will be how heavy is the wiring supplying the socket/outlet as the ability to carry current without overheating is 100% related to...

I have done 2 different cars now with the resistor fix and both continue to function nominally. Why waste time and money on a different solution that may not work?