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I struggled with this one myself recently - a couple of months back there was a snap when I opened the J1772 hatch and most of a clip fell to the floor, followed by the rest of it. I found a new MB642442 (corrected) clip on eBay which matched the broken bits, but could not work out how it...

FWIW, I'm using a similar arrangement. I got my friendly sparky to install a new 15A outdoor power socket on separate wiring back to a 20A contactor in the distribution panel. In operation I activate the contactor through my home control system at 11pm each night (when the EV discount rate kicks...

OK, between travel to NZ, another round of COVID, and then all of the associated catching up from both sets of downtime, my iMIEV debugging has taken a back seat. However I spent a little time over the weekend and built up a test rig with a bucket of water (less messy than coolant to clean up if...

My coolant was blue, and I replaced it with this one from Penrite which appeared to match the Mitsubishi spec from the manual. I think the Nulon is equivalent too.

I'm also considering running up the original pump on the bench with a bucket of coolant and some beverage tube - would be interesting to see how it behaves in comparison to the one currently on the vehicle.

It makes a difference when you've got someone to report to. :) Today I spent some more time on the P0C73 problem, and discovered a few things. I confirmed that full battery voltage is present at the coolant pump pin 3. 12.7V with ignition on and 14.1V after "start" when the battery charger...

Fascinating! I've got the same problem with my 2010 iMIEV - have had it for some weeks now. From cold the trouble light comes on after about 10-15 minutes driving - though not affecting actual vehicle operation as far as I can tell. My scanner tells me code P0C73 is active on those drives where...

I just saw my name drop above. The epoxy removal info is actually there in the following few posts. Alas no magic was found, so I had to fall back on elbow grease. I used a Dremel grinder initially, then switched to Kenny's suggestion of spot heating with a hot soldering iron and scraping -...

Thank you. The potting compound is very similar to the original one used for the upper board, other than the colour of course. It hardens into a silicone rubber which can be dug out fairly easily. I was surprised how well it worked.

This morning I soldered the module back together again, then put it back in the vehicle. I ran a charging test for about 5 minutes, just long enough to feel comfortable that I hadn't broken anything else. I then pulled the module out again, put the plastic wall back in place on the top board and...

I'm making progress on the slow road to proper reassembly. I'd hoped to solder a chip capacitor in place of the original destroyed one, but a couple of hours of widening the pit in the waffle board and attempting the job convinced me that it wasn't going to work - at least at my soldering skill...

From my reading this evening the failed capacitor is there primarily to bypass high frequencies from the boost converter, and so reduce EMI. The design guides I read also suggest a low ESR cap, and this may be why a pair of them were used. I'm now thinking I'll replace the failed capacitor with...

Good point, and it raises several questions. Do you think it reasonable to assume that both capacitors (in parallel) were the same value? I presume the total capacitance required would depend on characteristics of the FETs and possibly the bridge diodes, all of which are buried deep in the...

So, I soldered it all back together again, leaving the pit in the waffle board as pictured above. I did proper joints rather than test tacking as the desoldering gun works very well with leaded solder and its slightly lower melting point. I put the boards back in, bolted the power board down...

Good questions, should have thought of them myself. The remaining capacitor measures approx 3mm long by 2mm wide - from the x-ray its cremated neighbour was identical. Capacitance reads as 47-48nF.

Another evening of mining. I used the Dremel, as well as working the epoxy with a old flat bit in the soldering iron (this was a good suggestion, thanks Kenny). I'm now thinking I may have done enough. I've removed all of the carbon and enough epoxy that I can see clearly where the failed...

First evening of mining complete. I've struck board, and dug out fair amount of carbonised epoxy and/or capacitor in the process. Heres a close up of the pit. I've been using a Dremel with some very fine grinding bits, a soldering fan to draw anything airborne away, a desk magnifier to...

Kenny, thanks very much for the markup of the x-ray image. I had it under way myself but you've done a much nicer job. Based on your schematic from the later units on page 1 it looks to me like the possibly smoked capacitor performs the same function as the 1uF (105K) device that is external to...

Looks like it might be a capacitor? One of the components in the middle of the bridge looks a little hollow, and that's where the crack and smoke are located.

On the positive side, at least I now know why there was a smell of electronic death when I originally opened up the charrger. The resistors seem to fail without emitting smoke, so in hindsight it was obvious there was still a mystery to be solved. I just forgot about it in the excitement of...