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i was thinking the cell voltage of 2.10 is the indication of a "zero" or no signal, based upon the PID calculation?

What was done to repair the P1A15 ? Does the car now go to READY? Is the fuse under the access cover on the MCU intact or blown? That fuse supplies the DCDC Converter which charges the 12V battery when in READY mode.

Yes that would throw a code that i think requires a MUT tool (dealer) to clear. But someone who has dealt with that code would know more. Yes again if you can't easily slide those in place then start over because something is jammed into the wrong hole or slot. The HV Interlock consists of 2...

That is a great catch to find and solve that problem, thanks for sharing your finding. Your persistence and endeavor to persevere has paid off and we are glad to hear it. As far as i know, it's a first time to find that connector as a problem, so i guess it just shows that nothing can be...

Did you send the entire unit or just the power board?

He did that before swapping out all the boards, etc. Not able to read anymore after that.

@Robert Rowe sent PM, This picture of before repaired. and /end The AC relay is now the orange rectangular device; the other dark rectangle is a capacitor.

So did you finally figure out that the 12V was weak or worn out and decided to swap, or was there some other event? Was the key OFF when you swapped it? If the 12V failed while driving or charging then there is a good chance that something important was damaged by the abrupt shutdown, e.g...

There are flats on the screw also, maybe those could be held while loosening the nut. Or hold the lever firmly with vise grips and then loosen the nut.

Hold the bracket steady with some vise grip pliers, then loosen the nut on the shaft.

PM from @Robert, i only respond to posts in this thread so that everyone can benefit: is this the same car that was previously having charging problems that you posted here, #993? Not starting to READY is a different issue than the OBC, but what is the age and condition of the 12V battery...

Here is a link to zombieron's issues copied over to the OBC Troubleshooting thread at post #1355; a link back to this thread was also added there to avoid repeating this content, suggest you continue discussion there. zombieron's OBC issues

Detailed discussion related to your OBC can be found at this link: (see post # 1357) rob's obc problem

reply to Rob: From your pictures i can see that the little blue snubber capacitors in the fenced area with the black potting were blown; also the white ceramic resistors in the same fenced area have scorch marks and may have cracked or burnt open circuit. If you would have a nearby DC fast...

From Rob Rowe's PMs: I have owned a little white Mitsubichi 2012 Miev For two years. It has been great. My car had a replacement Battery pak and run battery replaced before I bought it. It runs and acted like new. Charges at 67 mile . Then it stoped charging . Its last charge quit at 39 miles...

Actually this is the place to post for troubleshooting an OBC problem--it's easier to make references here rather than jumping back and forth to separate threads. Here is a link to zombierons separate thread, but i will no longer be repeating information from this thread in any other separate...

Great videos Gary, thanks for sharing and best wishes on getting those CMU boards repaired. i like your scissor plate jacks, never seen those over here other than tiny versions in an optics laboratory.

Have you tried to measure if there is any continuity, resistance, diode drops between the control sockets and the ground socket in the handle of the charging cable--might give some clues?

Yes

The label on the OBC might have some clues. i have only seen the 9499xxxxx OBCs that use the black box EVSE to charge. i had a later gen2 model installed to replace the original, and it had a different part number, 9481xxxxx. It would be interesting to find the part number for 2010 that use...