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My esteemed friends and colleagues... it is fixed. I noticed the other day while sitting despondently in the cockpit that, huh, neither the overhead lights nor the radio work, key in or not - and the headlights do not come on unless the key is on. So I decided to fix that, starting with the...

It's part #1 on the below diagram, or connectors G-03, G-12, and E-03 on yours. Yes - no change.

Another data point gained over the weekend - I temporarily swapped the J1772 harness (between charge plug and OBC) from the bad car into the good car, which then charged without incident. This narrows down the problem area to, I guess, somewhere battery-side of the OBC.

Yeah, the B1108 makes absolutely zero sense to me, yet it shows up consistently. I use an Autel MK808 scan tool since it's what I have in the shop and allows me to communicate with all modules. Certainly open to making a Diagbox setup but haven't grokked what the best cable/version would be...

Oddly, the good car does charge fine with the bad car's EV-ECU, or battery control unit, or body control unit, installed. Didn't expect that, for a couple reasons.

I initially wanted to swap OBC's because the initial diag (no relevant DTC's) led me to believe the OBC was faulty. That's doing it for a reason, IMO. I should probably have just swapped them, because in fact the OBC was fine. I did list the DTC's in post #28 but again it seems like there are...

They're almost identical - the good car doesn't have CHAdeMO but the bad car does. Anyway, I'll give this a shot - good thinking on putting the bad ECU in the good car.

That's correct - OBC is known-good now. I do get about 14.4 across the battery in ready mode. Does anyone know if it'd be safe to swap EV-ECU's between cars? I'm less concerned over whether it's VIN coded, more concerned if I have a strong risk of bricking the EV-ECU from the good car or...

Spent some time on this just now - 1) Connecting the EVSE to just the car (and not the wall) and trying to start the car shows the red charging symbol on the dash instead of going to READY mode. 2) Checked, good 3) Checked, good 4) That I'm still working on. There is no obvious damage to any...

Well, that's what started this - there are no relevant codes as far as I can tell. B1108 - electric heater fail 1 U1104 - SAS CAN timeout/Not equipped U1111 - Display CAN timeout/Not equipped U1113 - MiEV Remote CAN T/o /Not equip U1116 - KOS CAN timeout/Not equipped C1912 - Tyre air pressure...

My lovely partner helped me drag the sick car a few miles with the good car and we got enough charge in the pack that the battery gauge now shows one flashing bar. I monitored cell min/max voltages and they showed a reasonably consistent spread of 0.03 or so as we charged it, now up to 3.71 or...

True... I'll give that a shot when I can recruit a friend. I checked over all the relevant relays and fuses last night and everything checked out good. My latest theory of the case is that it's a low (again, 3.47-3.51 cell voltage) SOC and thus charging is prevented. The J1772 socket is clean...

Well, I finally reassembled this OBC because I couldn't find anything wrong with it, swapped it into the good car, swapped the good car's OBC into the bad car... the good car charges with the "bad" OBC, the bad car doesn't charge with the "good" OBC. I think I may try towing it to a Chademo...

Cell voltages across the pack range from 3.47 to 3.51 - very low state of charge.

I haven't yet - I did load up all the cell voltages with my scan tool and they were all consistent to a couple mV. The pack is at a very low SoC though, so I wonder if that could be preventing a charge if one of the CMU's is intermittent as you describe. @alviseven thanks for sharing your...

The car does go into Ready mode and can move so I doubt the CMU specifically is bad - but I'm not finding anything wrong with the OBC either.

Finally got around to checking the diodes in the upper right and upper left parts of the OBC... and everything seems to check out according to coulomb's diagrams. Starting to think it may be time to swap OBC's and see if I'm barking up the wrong tree entirely with the OBC, here

Oh, jeez, I get it now - I'm dense. Those boxes are the solder connections. Will check those - thanks!

Okay, the black wire to the (correct) L trace does have continuity, thanks for catching that! I'm struggling on how to check the diode drop voltages. I don't have a means of pushing voltage to the board (and I'm not 100% certain where it'd go) but I did find this image which matches my...

I'm trying to access the full size image but the original "does not exist anymore", is it available somewhere else?