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There seems to be a possibility to use a full chip Lexia cable with MUT3 (post #1) https://myimiev.com/threads/using-the-lexia3-pp2000-diagbox-hardware-adapter-as-a-universal-j2534-adapter.5594/

You’re not finished with the original yet, it being left sitting for months means the BMU’s capacity value might be way off, a battery calibration would be a good way to test your Lexia/Diagbox setup…

If one is to use ‘combined’ bus bars then there is no need to upgrade the NMC cells to M8 terminals either…

Have a look here, section 90 Circuit Diagrams http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2017/index_M1.htm That’s a real possibility given that your worse off now then when you started See link above In a bus system all nodes are connected in parallel, the 120Ohm resistors are...

One of the functions of these tabs is to transfer the “heat” of the cell to the tiny temp sensors on the CMUs. Therefore best to have these (if you’re still running with this) on the underside but as some are used ‘mirrored’ you need to introduce type “C” again

At first glance definitely, but you can easily offset that expense if you sell your old cells for solar storage and charge extra to include the original bus bars..

If you look at @phebbler ’s design back in post # 236 you’ll notice “C” is not required, it’s just another “B”…

Great stuff! Very possible, although you need to fully test the car before you’re certain… That’s the reason forums like this exist, well done. Mickey

If the the fault is within controller board 1 then this is expected Try MCU2 with controller 2 and clear DCTs or MCU3 altogether

It’s the “cheap man’s” version of the Mitsubishi dealer diagnostic tool MUT3 https://myimiev.com/threads/i-miev-and-lexia-3-and-diagbox.4042/

Always a good idea, just make sure you charge it overnight before replacing it As @kiev mentioned, you need to remove and open the battery pack to correctly diagnose the problem. In order to be able to fix the issue on the spot, you need a ‘new’ CM01 and a LEV50 cell (with the same or larger...

Cell G certainly looks like it's closely tracking the others in CMU01, therefore CMU fault or cell failure?

Another option, if you feel adventurous, borrow an A-Frame from a garage and tow it home yourself… https://myimiev.com/threads/towing-the-i.177/

Try the current lexia cable when you have Diagbox up and running Sorry, don’t have any experience with MUT3, someone else might jump in here.. Shouldn’t be a problem with auto detect, hopefully diagbox is only looking for 17 digit VIN when entered manually

The Lexia cable is designed to work with Diagbox, don’t use the CDs delivered, they contain malware. Try the images posted on the PSA website (your post #60), there is also tons of YouTube videos. Diagbox seems to work slightly different to MUT3 as a lot of functions are combined and found in...

Sound, will have a closer look tomorrow but if you want to have a go at it yourself compare module 1, cell G to the rest..

What @kiev refers to is best illustrated in the schematic on page #145, each of the 3 IGBT modules seems to contain an upper and lower gate each with a freewheeling diode across. For more details on how to test an IGBT with a DMM check out video below

Hello and welcome to the forum Congratulations I would bring a fully charged 12V aux battery with you: https://www.gogreenautos.co.uk/how-tos/mitsubishi-i-miev-12v-auxiliary-battery You may also need to charge the HV battery before before taking off or along the way, for Rapid charging look...

Take your original key apart and swap the transponder chip into the newly cut key. If that not possible, bring your new key and second working key to a locksmith ($$) or a dealer ($$$) or get a Lexia/Diagbox clone ($) and program it yourself, (takes some effort/time but you’ll end up with a...

These PIDInt_xxx files contain all CAN messages transmitted (hex codes converted to integer) but there should be corresponding Cells_xxxx which contains cell voltages only, if you could post these also…