The Troubleshooting and Repair for On-board Charger (OBC) Thread

Exhausted76 · Feb 14, 2025

kiev said:
Take a look at this post and the few following it, there is a pictorial of the steps to replacing the snubbers when soldering to the stubs is not possible.

https://myimiev.com/threads/the-tro...r-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/post-39234

Hi,

Can I please just check that the capacitors themselves are just sat in free space and are not 'mounted' in any way other than the legs connecting into the upper part of the board (N0/P0) as pictured (i.e. not connected to C122/C121).

kiev · Feb 14, 2025

Note: be careful when bending the wire leads of the caps to not break the "blend" of the ceramic/porcelain cover to the leads. Hold the wire with pliers so no force is put into the blend.

That is correct--no connection to the C122/121 solder joints (cover them with sealant such a Permatex Ultra Gray Form-in-Place Gasket FIPG maker, non-acidic calcium carbonate filler).

Solder your new caps directly in parallel to the N0/P0 solder junctions. The wire leads and held by the solder and the sealant acts as vibration damper and provides some additional support. They are just floating in free space as you say.

The side fence wall could be removed completely if it makes it easier to route the leads and make the soldering, just insulate everything to avoid any issues later.

DBMandrake posted about the repairs with a couple of video links here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/the-tro...r-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/post-39902

Exhausted76 · Feb 14, 2025

kiev said:
That is correct--no connection to the C122/121 solder joints (cover them with sealant such a Permatex Ultra Gray Form-in-Place Gasket FIPG maker, non-acidic calcium carbonate filler).

Solder your new caps directly in parallel to the N0/P0 solder junctions. The wire leads and held by the solder and the sealant acts as vibration damper and provides some additional support.

DBMandrake posted about the repairs with a couple of video links here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/the-tro...r-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/post-39902

Massive thanks

kiev · Feb 14, 2025

See note added about the "blend"

san004 · 2025-02-21T00:42:31-0600

hello forum members. I am the owner of a Nissan Leaf. but I'm writing here because this branch is the most active on the Internet for the so-called waffle maker. I have a Nissan Leaf Zeo 2012 charger that does not charge from a 220 volt network, but from a charger it charges without problems. I have already partially disassembled it, measured the resistance of T1, T4, P1, N1 and all the closed circuits, the resistance is zero. that is, that node burned down. it remains to desolder the wafer (I know it's difficult), but I have many years of soldering experience. but I am more afraid of the compound (epoxy glue). I read that it is successfully used with a dental drill. but I think nothing else takes it? for example, if you soak it in a solvent for several days, I have seen reviews that it (in other spaces) can be heated up to 200-300 degrees Celsius with a thermophone. what do you say about this?

kiev · 2025-02-21T07:45:09-0600

san004 said:
measured the resistance of T1, T4, P1, N1 and all the closed circuits, the resistance is zero

Did you try using the diode check function of your meter? And swap the direction/polarity of the meter probes?

i'm working on one right now that appears to measure okay but i can see blown chunks of black epoxy rattling around and exposed transistor leads in the lower right quadrant of the plate. So we may have to figure out additional measurements to assess the condition.

Was there any issue with your 12V battery, e.g. old, weak or worn out, related to your car charging session when this happened?