Recent content by martinwinlow

This is (*properly*) called a "Mode 2" charging cable or portable EVSE (pEVSE) or (if you really must) a 'granny-charging cable' - it is *not* a charger. For AC charging, the charger built in to the car is doing the 'charging' ie converting AC to DC so the high voltage (HV) traction battery can...

An update on this - which may or may not prove useful for others... Replacing the 125A fuse on the DC-DC converter PCB (and *thoroughly* - over 2-3 weeks) drying out the PCB has resulted in an as yet apparently fully functional DC-DC converter. The car is booked in with Mitsubishi to have 2...

Wow... lots of confusing info, here. As far as *AC charging* is concerned: The car will not (should not!) go to Ready if there is a Type 1 plug properly plugged into the chargport. This is called a 'interlock function' and is designed to stop the car from being driven when the cable plug is...

I've got 2, too, here on the Isle of Colonsay, Scotland - a 2009 i-MiEV and a 2012 Ion. The island's owner has another 3 (and 2 e-NV200s)...

Actually, I think that's one advantage of using 18650s in that there is a wealth of easy and cheap systems to hold cells together in pretty much any arrangement you desire. It would be joining them up electrically as well as providing appropriate terminal connections that will work with the...

This is a bit of a thread hijack but I was wondering if any battery geek out there has thought of replacing the discrete LEV50's with a 'brick' of 18650's in parallel, 'Tesla-style'? And might this be a comparatively easy yet affordable way around all the problems of sourcing replacement cells...

Nope!

Yes - within reason!

Actually, *pure* water is not conductive at all... which is why early DC-based EV conversions (which often used fork-lift truck motors with exposed brushes) would run immersed in *fresh water* (eg fording a stream, etc) for a short while without serious issue - the same cannot be said for...

Friend reports that there is NO continuity across the 125A fuse. So that’s obviously one reason why it doesn’t work. I wonder why it blew? I'd have thought there would be evidence of it blowing somewhere... That's quite a lot of current even at 14.4V! Maybe the a previous owner shorted...

Well, indeed! I've not come across this as an issue with i-MiEVs before. Have you? It would certainly explain why it isn't happy. Friend says it's quite clear where the failure of the gasket is - tho not from his pics. He said it was very easy to get the lid off once the bolts were removed...

Friend is back... He has opened the OBC box and removed the bottom cover which reveals... 1/ Quite a lot of water.. 2/ Nothing especially 'blown' looking... 3/ A very wet-looking inside of the bottom lid but no black splodges... I have suggested letting it dry out very thoroughly over...

Excellent! It may be the beginning of a life-long - and very rewarding - career in sustainable transport, something I dearly wish I had the opportunity to do when I was an engineering student 40 years ago!

I can't help but feel you are wasting your time unless you use a scanning app/dongle that is known to work *properly* with these cars and whatever smartphone/device you choose. Anything else may simply not reveal the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that are there waiting to be read... and thus...

Well, Hobdrive is a much simpler interface than MUT3-SE and, in my experience, what Hobdrive gives you is generally all that's needed to fix the common issues on these cars. MUT3-SE is pretty awful in terms of user-friendliness. It is also very slow - but that may be more down the the old...