Recent content by kiev

i think it is some sort of cho-therm pad, thermally conductive and electrical isolator, such as found here: cho-therm pads With some specs here: chotherm 1671

If the temperature sensor that is being used to adjust the DCDC output happens to be out of spec--it could be thinking that it's cold out even though it is hot as hell. Also how sure are you about your volt meter? Calibrated? Expensive or HF?

Environment--ambient air temperature. The charging voltage is raised a bit in cold weather. But it sounds like your DCDC is putting out too high a voltage.

That's a bad picture, not likely to improve much as the voltage difference is large. May want to return it if the seller misrepresented the car; but they may have been ignorant of the actual cell condition. Charge it up and give it a try to see if you can make your expected trips. Stay easy...

Well replacing the IGBTs "repaired" the broken parts, but why did they fail to begin with is the question? There is some fault that caused them to fail--maybe a shorted winding in the motor, motor winding varnish failure, some fault in the controller to accidentally misfire the gate drives...

Welcome. i agree with Mickey that there is likely a weak cell that drops under high load and triggers the turtle. i have a car like that in which i can make turtle appear by stomping on the pedal WOT. Do the calibration charge using a slow charging rate, L1 or L2. May have to do it a...

i think the monroney doesn't work anymore

It looks like the OEM to me; DDMMYY Oct. 21, 2012 ? Seems about right for a 2013 model. What is the date on the door jam label?

Where are you located? Mod edit: https://myimiev.com/threads/admin-how-to-let-us-know-where-you-are-located.5446/

Intermittent faults are typically due to wiring or connector issues (rodents, corrosion). But in your case i think the 12V battery is old, weak and worn out. The quick rise and fall of the voltage indicates sulfation damage to me and it is not likely to sustain the required loads. That is...

L and R in the old style OBC refer to the wire color, Blue and Red. And the Red is somewhat closer to a pinkish color in my box, a very faint "red" Red is the + positive voltage and Blue is the - negative. The white wire is the 12V output of the DCDC converter to charge the 12V battery. If...

Which wire do you mean? Do you have a picture or description because this is quite nebulous? The fat white wire coming out of the bottom of the OBC, is the 12V output of the DCDC converter and it runs up front to the positive terminal of the 12V battery.

Good eyes Piki, that definitely looks like a failed capacitor or resistor to me. You need to carefully dig out that black rubber potting so you can see down to the board and inspect at the bottom of the capacitor. Look at the pictures on the first page of this thread for examples of failed...

The D-B-C functions are not in the gearbox, but in the sensor circuit and the EV-ECU

Check the waffle plate diode drops--if it is damaged then no point to reassemble.