2012 iMiev charging problems. New problem

Hi! Just bought a broken EV. I have read almost all the topics with headings like Miev not charging, charging problems, and so on. Also, I have checked fuses. The car has been sitting for almost 6 months without charging and now has no READY light.
Does anybody have some ideas? I am using home charger EVSE 10A

Diagnostic faults:
B1A39 Fault on the traction battery charge status.
B1A30 Voltage fault in the cells of the traction battery.
F1A5B Traction battery controller 10 cells

charger adapted and ignition on
https://youtu.be/K49ALVfbze8


Charger adapted and ignition off
https://youtu.be/pdr4mlhIs70

Images with faultcodes and videos:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13LA_9NHNGwp8nqnfQMcp2zKTQY8xUlnm?usp=sharing

Howdy EF and welcome to the forum,

Did you replace the 12V starter battery and charge it fully before installation?

Do you hear any clicking or clacking sounds from relays and contactors when you turn the key to START, or when plugging in the EVSE to charge? i didn't hear any in your videos.

What tool are you using to read out the DTCs? There are no B or F codes, likely these are P codes. The only code i could find was P1A58, which indicates that there is a low voltage cell in CMU #10.

Good luck to you and hope you can get it sorted out.

Hi!
Thanks you


Anyway, when I plug in, it makes relay clicks, and also vent goes on for about 2 seconds, and then everything is quiet. I have an old diagnostic tool and I had to try another car (Peugeot) for getting these fault codes. But it seems that the voltage is too low for some cells and it will not charge. 12v battery voltage was 12,4 when ignition on.

Did you happen to check the 20A fuse under the little access cover plate of the Motor Control Unit (MCU)?

That fuse sometimes blows when there are issues inside the On-Board Charger (OBC) and would prevent charging, but it appears that you have a Cell Module with a low voltage cell that is preventing both charging and READY.

Hi! Actually, I have checked all these fuses inside the OBC. also dc-dc (I measured the resistance). And there are no blown electronic components, they are nice and clean.
I think the problem is the HV battery, like DTC says, it has too low voltage and it is impossible to start charging. I think I should take off the battery pack and check the voltages manually

When I connect the EVSE charger then I can see that dc voltage rises a little bit, because the interior light goes a little bit lighter So I assume that electronics are OK. The previous owner told me that it worked before they left the car to a standstill for several months. (He said that before there was a problem with charging that they couldn't charge more than 6_ %, and not using the car for several months made the broken cells even more broke

I just hope you agree with my assumption.

Hi! I have not solved the problem, but I think I have found it
The new battery is on its way and the battery box needs some refresh, it is so rusty that it need sandblast and new colour.
But meanwhile, You can see the pictures of what have I done :O

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=360267246123868&set=pcb.360267859457140

EF600 said:

The new battery is on its way...

Click to expand...

Do you mean one new cell, or a complete replacement high voltage battery? I assume you mean one cell.

That photo with the 0.45 V cell tells a story. You will have to balance the cells carefully before re-assembly.

I'm surprised that you are able to get the contactors to come on at all, with that really bad cell. Perhaps the clicks that you reported earlier were other relays, perhaps for cooling fans or the like, not the contactors inside the battery box.

coulomb said:

EF600 said:

The new battery is on its way...

Click to expand...

Do you mean one new cell, or a complete replacement high voltage battery? I assume you mean one cell.

That photo with the 0.45 V cell tells a story. You will have to balance the cells carefully before re-assembly.

I'm surprised that you are able to get the contactors to come on at all, with that really bad cell. Perhaps the clicks that you reported earlier were other relays, perhaps for cooling fans or the like, not the contactors inside the battery box.

Click to expand...

Yes, I meant a new cell I hope to get the cells next week and maybe at the weekend I can start putting the car back together. And new ones are already balanced with the same voltage as the other cells (4,01-4,02V). The seller had this special charger, so I´ll get plug and play cells.
They might be the other relays yes.

Hope it’s not a faulty CMU that drained the cell so low, might be a good idea to connect a different cell where the faulty one was and monitor its voltage regularly (while you wait on your replacement cell). Might save you taking out the pack again…

Excellent photos, thank you! Yes, he's got one stone-dead cell at 0.45V while the others appear healthy. This is the most common failure mode that triggers a pack replacement under warranty in the USA. I would think it worthwhile to swap cells around on the same BMU and watch the results if you have time, but I'd bet that the salvaged cell will get you going again.
Good Luck!
-Jay