Peugeot ION multiple problems

Hello,
I bought Peugeot ION with defective charger/inverter . I ordered second hand charger and I change it.
After that I did the procedure for Water pump actuate (Manual) from this link:
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2012/14/html/M114200120001700ENG.HTM


The car is running now but I'm having a few problems:
1. When I tried to charge it for the first time today with the home charger, first the green light ready lighting, after that showing charging for 3-4 seconds, I can hear some fans started inside and light charging is gone, only ready remaining.
2. On the dash board lighting two warning lights when I start the car - red icon with battery and yellow car with exclamation mark. I took the battery to charge it home tonight, so I will write a results tomorrow.
3. With Delphi diagnostic coming 3 errors:
U1113 -Ignore Fault code - Permanent,
P0A09 Converter Fault - Intermittent,
P1A12 Vehicle charging fault - Intermittent

4. When I start the car I can here on the back side buzzing/spinning sound of pump or looks like pump, but its not the same which I used in the procedure for coolant change. So I don't know what is this equipment for, but looks like pump other than this used to move to coolant in the engine department.

I assume it may have no coolant in the electronic block I changed, so that's why charging start and stops. Aslo 12V battery failure.
Can somebody tell me what is that pump with buzzing sound, is it normal and how to fill the system there, if any procedure.
Did somebody have an experience with stoping charging after a few seconds.
In general appreciated any help, I really want to be Green and drive Ion.

Thanks in advance!

Links:
1. The buzzing pump, which sounds something wrong:
https://ibb.co/h1wOyA


2. Changed charger/Inverter
https://ibb.co/ikA8yA

gera4ko said:

The car is running now but I'm having a few problems:
1. When I tried to charge it for the first time today with the home charger, first the green light ready lighting, after that showing charging for 3-4 seconds, I can hear some fans started inside and light charging is gone, only ready remaining.

Click to expand...

If you're referring to the green READY indicator on the dashboard, this means the car is "on", ready to drive. You cannot start a charge while the car is in ready mode. Also you must have the car in park. Turn the key off, make sure you're in Park and try again.

When you start a charge the following should happen:

Fuel gauge appears on the dashboard, red charging light flashes. You will hear a fan run under the rear of the car for a few seconds.

The fan will then stop and the red charging light should go to solid red indicating charging has commenced. If it continues flashing there is a problem with charging. If it goes out either the car is fully charged or there is a problem.

2. On the dash board lighting two warning lights when I start the car - red icon with battery and yellow car with exclamation mark. I took the battery to charge it home tonight, so I will write a results tomorrow.

Click to expand...

The red icon probably means the 12v battery is flat, check and charge it separately.

The yellow icon is a general fault code indicator for both critical and non critical faults relating to the electric drive related ECU's such as EV-ECU. A flat battery is likely to trigger the yellow warning as well.

3. With Delphi diagnostic coming 3 errors:
U1113 -Ignore Fault code - Permanent,
P0A09 Converter Fault - Intermittent,
P1A12 Vehicle charging fault - Intermittent

Click to expand...

Have you cleared the fault codes since you replaced the charger ? If not, after you have charged/replaced your 12v battery, clear the codes then check if they come back again.

4. When I start the car I can here on the back side buzzing/spinning sound of pump or looks like pump, but its not the same which I used in the procedure for coolant change. So I don't know what is this equipment for, but looks like pump other than this used to move to coolant in the engine department.

Click to expand...

The pump you posted a picture for is the vacuum pump for the brake servo. It will run for a few seconds when you turn the car on and then stop, and will run again if you pump the brake pedal.

I assume it may have no coolant in the electronic block I changed, so that's why charging start and stops. Aslo 12V battery failure.
Can somebody tell me what is that pump with buzzing sound, is it normal and how to fill the system there, if any procedure.
Did somebody have an experience with stoping charging after a few seconds.

Click to expand...

What does the dashboard show when it stops charging ? One cause of charging stopping I have seen is AC voltage too high.

During storm weather last winter the AC voltage at our house went up to 249 volts for a whole day - this is still within the UK standards (which allows up to 252 volts) but the car will refuse to charge if the AC voltage is above 247 volts, (red light continues flashing instead of going solid) making the car non-compliant with EU/UK AC voltage ranges.

So check your household AC voltage isn't above 247 volts.

What country are you based in ?

Updates and comments:
First tanks for the prompt reply DBMandrake !

After delete the errors in workshop and we plug the charger it comes immediately P1A12 error.

The result with charged 12V baterry - Negative! Battery is fine
Again red icon for battery stays all the time when the car is started with yellow car with exclamation mark.

When I'm trying to charge it, (of course in off position, not ready with key out from dashboard):
1. In the charger is comming a light charging for few seconds.
2. The fans inside the car start spinning for 2-3 seconds
3. On the dashboard showing red charging plug,
4. Start showing yellow car with exclamation mark and red plug symbol start blinking. Fans are stoped and external charging cable shows only green ready.
5. The car is charging from fast charger without any issues and its drivable as well.
6. The air is removed after DC converter change from the cooling system.
7. The connector seems to be fine, because the car recognise the charger once plugged, but also this I can check...

I'm living in Norway and the electricity is in the range you specified as normal.

PLEASE HEEEEEELLLLLP!

Gera4ko, sorry to hear of the ongoing trouble. Your symptoms sound like when my charger failed. Did you replace the 20 amp fuse that is inside the inverter assembly? That fuse is both the high voltage input to the DC-DC converter and the output fuse for the main battery charger!
Lots of details in this thread: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4075&hilit=MR+BEAN+will+not+charge
Lykke til!

My impression is that the charger isn't getting high voltage DC. What is the voltage of the 12 volt battery both with the car turned off and running (READY illuminated on dash)? This will tell for sure if the charger is getting DC power from the drive battery, as the 12 volt converter and main battery charger are both contained in the same enclosure.

As you suggest me (most probably I have to do it long time ago) I checked the voltage to 12 battery.

When the car is in off state 12.4V
Once I start the car - ready to go position no any change in the voltage. Looks like the main battery did not charge the 12V.
Any ideas?

Open the small inspection cover on the Motor Control Unit (aka Drive Inverter) and verify that the fuse is blown. Chances are high that the On Board Charger/DC-DC Converter unit has internal damage also if the fuse has blown.

Opening the cover

High Voltage Precautions

You need to charge up your 12V Aux battery with a regular car battery charger, or replace it if it won't hold a charge. 12.4 is a worn out battery voltage, but maybe it is low because it is not being re-charged by the car due to the blown fuse.

kiev said:

Open the small inspection cover on the Motor Control Unit (aka Drive Inverter) and verify that the fuse is blown. Chances are high that the On Board Charger/DC-DC Converter unit has internal damage also if the fuse has blown.

Click to expand...

Surely the high voltage needs to be isolated before opening the cover or attempting to measure the fuse ? I wouldn't be relying on the contactors alone for safety, especially on a car with probable high voltage faults... I'd suggest removing the fuse under the front left seat before taking the cover off the inverter.

(It makes me very nervous seeing casual advice like "check if the fuse is blown" on a high voltage circuit without describing necessary safety steps to be performed first - not everybody knows enough to work safely on high voltage systems without guidance...and even if the target of the advice does, other people reading along with a similar fault may not...!)

You need to charge up your 12V Aux battery with a regular car battery charger, or replace it if it won't hold a charge. 12.4 is a worn out battery voltage, but maybe it is low because it is not being re-charged by the car due to the blown fuse.

Click to expand...

12.4 volts is fine, if it has been standing for a few hours that represents approximately 70-80% SoC. So not fully charged, but certainly above 50%. 100% SoC is about 12.6 to 12.7 volts depending on temperature. 12.2 volts is about 50% SoC and 11.6-11.8 volts is fully discharged.

While the fault is being diagnosed I would periodically put the 12v battery on an intelligent charger to ensure that the battery is kept in good health and also to allow the ECU's to be powered correctly for troubleshooting as the ECU's will start to malfunction and produce spurious fault codes if the battery gets too low.

When the car is switched on to READY mode (or plugged in to charge) the battery voltage should immediately rise to about 14.2 - 14.4 volts, the fact that it doesn't shows that the DC-DC converter is not working.

Hello again,
Today I connected the car with Lexia (china version, but working good) and inside was a lot of errors for delete. All deleted!
Tried to charge, same behaviours - start charging for a few seconds and stops.
Sone errors came back which I'm posting a link with pdf showing the full result.
(PLEASE HAVE A LOOK AND IF YOU FIND SOMETHING INTERESTING I WILL APPRECIATE IT!)
https://files.fm/u/32e8heyv
https://files.fm/u/32e8heyv

or

http://www.filedropper.com/print_15
http://www.filedropper.com/print_15


The line which catch my attention is:
Air conditioning compressor supply request - Not functional
Also after that I tried to execute actuator tests on everything on that function.
All passed ok, except 2 relay tests:
1. "ACTIVATION COMPRESSOR/HEATING SUPPLYRELAY"
2."ACTIVATION OF THE COOLANT PUMP SUPPLY RELAY"

Observations:

A. I Can not hear any relay clicking for both relays when actuators tests are running.
B. When I plug the charging cable I can hear the relays in front clicking, but not sure which
C. The pump relay tested and found OK with 12V on the line and clicking...
D. A/C relay is not tested, because of darkness and late today... But I can start the A/C inside the car... So should be fine if its a same CAN line.
E. When I start manual procedure for air bleeding the pump is running the cooling water, as suppose to be (12 times x 30 sec) and the water is moving visible. So the pump is working, if its one. Maybe is another one, that I don't know.

So I'm very, very confused how to proceed further more...

PLEASE HELP ME!

I just tried the Aircondition on cooling and wiring pretty well. The a/c compressor also sounds pretty well. Start and stops as it should be.
I’m very confused.
Please advise me something...

i looked at your printout file, and it seems that a power supply voltage is only showing 1.40 volts. i would expect to see 12V, since all the ECUs have a power supply feed from the Aux battery.

What did you ever find out about the 20A fuse in the MCU?

Hi,
the 20A fuse is OK.
Thats not the problem.

Please heeeeeellllppppp!

It's not clear but does the car run and drive as normal? Does the 12V aux battery stay charged up or does it get drained while driving?

In your printout, The EV-ECU voltage is only showing 1.4 Volts. It should be at least 12 Volts. That is a problem. It tells me that some relay is not being commanded to provide power.

Also in the printout it shows that the AC relay is not activated, so the EV-ECU has not turned on the relay inside the On-Board Chargger. But of course you know that because it is not working. But the EV-ECU must be powered and working before it can control the OBC.

Maybe the issue is in your EVSE unit not communicating with the car properly, or the internal relays of the EVSE are damaged and not providing AC to the car? Can you borrow one to make a test, or try your EVSE in some other vehicle to prove it is good?

It seems that both functions of the charger/converter box are not working. One common element is the 20A fuse in the MCU, but you have checked it and say it is good. So There are also 20A fuses inside the OBC, both on the topside (charger) and the bottom (DC converter). You May need to remove the covers and inspect those fuses and for damaged components, take photos, etc. Have you seen the pictures from the Troubleshooting thread of the various components which have been found to be damaged?

Do you still have your original OBC? Take a look inside that one for damage. Whatever blew the first one may have done the same to the second one.

There may be damage in the DC converter section (bottom cover of the OBC) which is causing the 12V to be pulled down low after the 2-3 seconds when the OBC is being energized. It seems odd that both OBC units would be doing the same thing, but maybe the second unit was failed also.

Just seen this thread and wondered how you resolved these issues; I have reported a similar challenge on this thread and would value any shared learning from your experience you can pas on...

https://www.speakev.com/threads/dead-c-zero-after-only-6-years-and-21k-miles.134760/#post-2527414

Regards, Sam

Hi, just adding here.
Same problem with my 2011 peugeot ion, found out it is a not too uncommon problem with the older OBC. In the inverter module there are two capacitors wich blow out and make the 20Amp fuse blow out too.
I tried to replace the capacitors but since the old ones are encased in black rubber i damaged the circuit board while cutting them out. So it is kind of delicate but it can be done.
ALWAYS REMOVE THE HIGH VOLTAGE ORANGE SAFETY CAP UNDER THE DRIVERSEAT BEFORE WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE ELECTRICAL PARTS