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I've had the continentals on for almost 20k miles now, and I don't have any complaints (except it would be nice if they were cheaper :D ). They seem to be a bit less efficient so the range may be down slightly, but the tires seem to last longer. My OEM dunlops were done at 20k miles, and these continentals have probably another 10k-20k more miles of tread left.

Here's my original post with my parts list:
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1656&start=259

but you'll want 10mm spacers all around instead of the thinner spacers I first tried:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D022GV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a photo of how much I cut the studs:
 
Thanks for the tip. The tire shop told me they don't carry the spacers and studs so I ordered the same ones you did from Amazon, as well as the lug nuts just in case. Looks like about a month wait to get the spacers :/

What (if any) is the consequence of not cutting the studs down, other than looking weird?
 
If you don't cut the studs, there might be clearance issues with installing them in the rear. I think maybe the back of those drum brakes get in the way. You might have to remove the rear wheel hubs somehow to install the studs. You'll also need to use those open ended lug nuts.
 
If I remember correctly the lug nuts that are on my car are already open-ended ones. I ordered those ones from Amazon anyway as they were only $10 for a set of 20!
 
So did you have to cut the studs to that same length for all 4 wheels or just the rears?

Just wondering if I could order shorter studs instead of the 50mm ones to avoid having to cut them.
 
Only the rears need to be cut for clearance issues. I cut them all to the same length so I can use the OEM lug nuts, which are closed-ended. I tried looking for shorter studs, all i could find were these and the oem ones.
 
melloyello said:
I cut them all to the same length so I can use the OEM lug nuts, which are closed-ended.
Interesting. My OEM lugs are open with 3 threads sticking out of the end. Melloyello, on your cut studs, how many thread ridges stick out of the end of the lug?
 
Here's a photo of the mini wheels with 8mm spacers and the longer studs before they were cut.

I haven't really tried the open-ended lug nuts with the mini wheels after cutting the studs, but I'd guess they wouldn't really stick out much at all, maybe 0-3 ridges. It's really needed if I want to use my oem wheels now, as the studs would stick out much more, maybe 5-10 ridges.
 
PV1 said:
melloyello said:
I cut them all to the same length so I can use the OEM lug nuts, which are closed-ended.
Interesting. My OEM lugs are open with 3 threads sticking out of the end. Melloyello, on your cut studs, how many thread ridges stick out of the end of the lug?
I think ES models with steel wheels used the open nuts, while SE models with alloys used closed end nuts, since they are visible all the time

Don
 
I recently purchased a "like new" 2014 with very low mileage, but it didn't have the standard OEM aluminum wheels. After doing some basic research, I realized the stock Toyota MR2 Spyder wheels that I had sitting around, could work with the right combination of front wheel adapter and tires. The rear Spyder wheels were 16" but had the same hub diameter and bolt pattern, so they bolted right up. I went with a 195mm wide LRR tire that is very close to the same diameter as the original MIEV tire diameter. The front Spyder wheels are 6" wide and 15" diameter, so a 145mm tire wouldn't work. The hub diameter was 2mm smaller, so I purchased a wheel adapter that gave enough clearance for the 6" wheel and just turned down the hub on the hubcentric adapter to match the Spyder wheel. I found 155 mm tire that would work and close to the same diameter as the original MIEV diameter. Here's a pic. Let me know if you want more info...

WemDeSz.jpg
 
(I need to find me a blue 2014/2016. That is a really nice color.)

Those wheels look great. Glad to see more options in the tire/wheel department.
 
Too bad you can't put the Honda Insight re92 size all the way around.

Nothing like the worlds most efficient tire.
 
melloyello said:
If you don't cut the studs, there might be clearance issues with installing them in the rear. I think maybe the back of those drum brakes get in the way. You might have to remove the rear wheel hubs somehow to install the studs. You'll also need to use those open ended lug nuts.

Just revisiting this now that I'm in the process of installing Winter tires on my stock rims, thinking about spring already *sigh*

Am I reading it correctly that you don't actually need longer studs at on the rear wheels, ie can I use the stock studs with the Mini wheels on the rear and just replace the studs up front?
 
pluto said:
melloyello said:
If you don't cut the studs, there might be clearance issues with installing them in the rear. I think maybe the back of those drum brakes get in the way. You might have to remove the rear wheel hubs somehow to install the studs. You'll also need to use those open ended lug nuts.

Just revisiting this now that I'm in the process of installing Winter tires on my stock rims, thinking about spring already *sigh*

Am I reading it correctly that you don't actually need longer studs at on the rear wheels, ie can I use the stock studs with the Mini wheels on the rear and just replace the studs up front?

You can stay with stock studs on the rears but you won't be able to use spacers so your tires would be 10mm inward from where they should be. I don't know how significant the effects would be on the handling if you do this. If you want, I guess you could try it and see?
 
So I didn't get around to putting on my Mini wheels or extended studs last year, but was thinking about doing it now since I need to work on the front brakes (they seem to be dragging quite bad) so I'm ready to mount the Mini wheels next spring (winter tires will go on in a month or so, and the OEM tires are done)

However I just realized that the set of studs ordered from Amazon was only a set of 10 and I need 16! To further complicate matters Amazon is not selling them anymore (Currently Unavailable)

melloyello - did you order two sets by chance and have a couple extra studs?
 
Yes, I ordered 2 sets, but that would only leave me with 4 extra studs if I can still find them.

It does look like they are not longer sold on amazon, but I found them here on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50mm-LONG-EXTENDED-WHEEL-STUDS-FOR-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-Year-2002-UP-K-14-3-m12x1-5-/172837762579?fits=Make%3AMitsubishi&hash=item283deef613:g:lr8AAOSwhf1ZoGMS&vxp=mtr

They appear to be the same ones.
 
I think I'm finally going to get my extended studs put on this week, but I'm having a local garage do it. I couldn't get the front brake rotor to budge when I tried a few months ago, figured I was going to destroy it in the process. Plus it is all pitted and rusted and needs to be replaced anyway. I picked up a set of rotors this weekend from NAPA in Niagara Falls, NY hopefully they are the right size. Canadian NAPA stores don't carry this part or anything else for the iMiEV, the only rotors available locally was from the dealer for more than double the cost.

Melloyello you mentioned in in the other thread something about cutting the studs down to 60mm to fit them on the rear because of the backing plate, yet the studs I have are 50mm. I'm a bit confused, do they need to be cut down more or not?
 
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