Solar charging.

Where is the +/- terminals located where high voltage always is present?
I want to charge from my sun panels directly to the main battery.
The DC/DC converter output is adjusted to 80% off fully charge voltage approx. 352V.
No BMS is active as the car are shut down.

The high voltage system is disconnected from inside the battery pack, and subsequently de-energized through a resistor inside the motor control unit upon shutdown. No high voltage remains accessible when the car is off and not charging.

It might be possible to energize the QC port and tap high voltage there, but you would need a charge controller on the solar array that can handle 360+ volts DC on both sides (solar and battery), plus the question of whether or not the BMS would coulomb count the energy flowing in with the rest of the car shut down. Also, you would definitely need to know how to treat lethal voltages with the capability of pushing over 150 amps. High voltage isn't something to mess around with.

The high voltage system is disconnected from inside the battery pack.

Click to expand...

Thanks PV1.
So I have to open the battery box, to locate the 2 terminals.

I'm afraid I don't understand the logic of attempting this??

You want to charge the pack directly with an unregulated 352 volts, understanding that the BMS isn't active so you could never fully charge the pack . . . . and you wouldn't know exactly when the charge process has ended?

The car is set up with all sorts of safeguards, both to keep you from damaging the pack or electrocuting yourself (or someone else), and the charge process is always regulated so you can fully recharge - Why not just convert your solar to 240 volts AC and let the car do what it does best? . . . . safely and quickly recharge itself

Don

I agree with Don. While direct charging is appealing, it forces the car to go through unintended circumstances, ones it wasn't designed for.

I'll be direct-solar charging Bear soon, but that will be accomplished by utilizing a stationary battery bank and an inverter to feed the car level 1 or level 2.

Hello JKO I went back through the history of your posts and see that you have been dabbling in a number of areas related to the battery pack, but in total I am rather confused -

1. Did you have a battery failure?
2. Had you tried to replace a single cell?
3. Is your car presently on the road and running?
4. Why the desire to solar charge directly?
5. The 352vdc you identified is a regulated output from a dc-dc converter. Wow, I would be interested in knowing about a power dc-dc working off a very variable source (solar) and outputting a regulated 352v - any links you can provide or is this a homebrew?
6. Do you have a CHAdeMO port?

Both Don and PV1 have identified the constraints of trying to hack into a production vehicle - not as simple as playing with a DIY EV conversion.

While we all appreciate that there is a significant efficiency loss when going from solar panels to a different dc and then from that dc through an inverter to the 230vac you use in Denmark so you can charge 'conventionally', I submit that this is still perhaps much easier technically and preferable to hacking into the i-MiEVs battery pack directly.

My electric car C-Zero is from 2011.
I bought it for 14 months. Ago.
It had driven 20000 km when I bought it.
Now it has traveled 37000 km.
Everything works fine and no problems.
Yes, there is CHAdeMO port, but it can not be hacked.
In Denmark, the price for power from solar cells only $ 0.086 / Kwh.
By contrast, the purchase price of $ 0.31 / Kwh. That is 3.7 times as expensive to buy power.
To charge the electric car through the original charger requires a supply of energy of 2 Kw.
Solar cells that constantly give 2 Kw requires many panels.
So, let the solar panels charge an expensive battery bank at a loss, then Dc to Ac at a loss, and then Ac to Dc loss.
The idea of ​​having directly on the electric car battery from solar panels is of course to avoid buying expensive batteries and only have one DC / DC converter.
SOC = 70-80% is chosen to have a long battery life.
When I have to run far, I charge to 100% and topbalanceres from the grid.

I have rebuilt a motorcycle Suzuki GS500 for electric operation with 24S LiFeYPo4 60A.
Here I charge directly on the cells via a DC / DC converter: 24V / 83V (SOC = 75%) and have been doing this for 2 years without any problems.
21000 km on batteries and no problems.
It is this experience I want to use on my vehicle.

i posted somewhere about how to get the Chademo port to open so you can get to the pack voltage, there may be a picture.

connect jumper between position 2 and 1 at relay connector, and jumper pin 3 and 10 at the chademo port to cause pack relays to close and reveal pack voltage at chademo port, positive voltage is on the right.