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Dirt clogging is pretty common due to the poor location of the pump, but they also rot out for the same reason. Mine's been replaced twice and I don't really understand why they didn't put it under the hood

It will go into ready whilst in park, but you need to press the brake to release the lever from the park lock (home) position The cable to the ignition keyswitch prevents the key being removed whilst the lever is anywhere except home - which ensures that the steering lock can't be engaged...

It's standard practice amongst many industries (particularly heavy diesel) to paint mark nuts/bolts after torquing to spec in order to avoid missing critical steps This is particularly important if working on a device is a multi-day process as it's easy to overlook stuff (human memory is...

Kolyandex made claims that the firmware is readable/writeable with his mmc tool and a MUT3 interface: https://forum.kolyandex.su/

I think this document will help a lot, along with IDA-Pro (https://hex-rays.com/ida-pro/ )

Given the thermal sensitivity of the cells, it's critically important Both charge and discharge currents are limited if the cells are too hot or too cool, plus the pack temperature controls the use of both the blower and the chiller Thermal runaway is a very real risk once the cells go over...

Good to see you here, Suziauto. Have you considered contracting Kolyandex to rewrite the BMU rather than using the MITM solution?

Restoration kits MUST be followed up with a UV resistant clearcoating or the plastic will yellow again within 6-8 months (This applies to all plastic headlights, not just Mievs)

That yellow cell is builging - which means it's been overdischarged and has significant levels of hydrogen inside it It's a major fire hazard (risk of self-combustion, not just leaking hydrogen). Get rid of it as quickly as you can, preferably to a qualified battery recycler If you're inside...

This can be done with HobDrive. Hobdrive also enables access to the "learn capacity" cycle (meaning you'll see your ACTUAL available capacity immediately instead of it incrementing/decrementing by 1Ah per few hundred km or so) NB: "Learn capacity" requires being plugged into a slow charger. It...

NMCs have a considerably different (dis)charge curve to LEV50s (the maximum voltage for LEV50s is 4.2V, it's limited to 4.1V to preserve their lifespan) This results not only in not being fully charged but the BMU declares the cells "discharged" (by LEV50 standards) when they still have about...

I contacted this Russian gentleman some time ago regarding his BMU reprogramming. He said he had never laid eyes on the physical installation I'm assuming that means you're the builder and you have some documentation/photos of what you did? A lot of people would like to see how you did it... :)

Before you get too deeply into this, double check the condition of the chassis, particularly ABOVE the battery pack and around the suspension mounts Thanks to their poor corrosion protection a 10 year old iMiev is potentially on its last legs, body-wise

"but it is probably the only way forward dealing with intermittent failures." Putting my "seasoned technician" hat on... In my experience virtually all intermittent faults are down to bad connectors(*), hairline cracks on traces or dry joints I've only encountered genuinely intermittent...

I'll add another factor which needs to be considered - RUST Imievs (USA or EU spec) were built on a JDM assembly line and they didn't get the level of rust protection regarded as normal. A lot of the critical rust is hidden by the battery back and therefore only seen once that's removed In a...

LEV50 firmware is more conservative than that for LEV50N (The newer cells have much higher current and temperature tolerances), so LEV50Ns would work safely in an older car (albeit not necessarily at maximum charge/discharge rates) It's the other way around that's dangerous and could possibly...

BEV2 format cells are used in the BMW i3 (NB: WITHOUT bolts) at much higher capacity, however the chemistry is quite different - meaning you would have to change out the entire pack, work out a way of interfacing/interconnecting each cell (heavy duty spot welder?) _and_ hack on the BMU At that...

The sensor for this is easily accessible at the front of the car. It would be simple enough to hit it with a heat gun and/or cooling spray to check calibration and what PIDs change whilst this is happening (My car is a 2012 Pugeot Ion)