Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sat Apr 07, 2018 11:34 pm

Any advise, what i should do next?

kiev
Posts: 713
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: P1AE6 EEPROM Error DTC

Sun Apr 08, 2018 8:08 am

This post is related to the older saved code, P1AE6, for the eeprom error P1A51 in the BMU that signals to the EV-ECU that there is a problem. i don't know if this could prevent the car from READY, it seems minor and un-related to any high voltage or motor controller issue.

If the main battery is swapped out, or if the Aux battery is off more than a month, then the BMU must be reprogrammed.

There is a MUT data item, #277 in the BMU, which is EEPROM-stored and contains the number of months of operation since it was manufactured.
==========
Sum total time back up
277
Shows month elapsed time since vehicle manufactured.
Electric motor switch: ON
0 - 99,421 month
==========

If the BMU is defective, or if the BMU thinks this vaule is corrupted or not stored properly, then it throws the P1A51 code.

To correct that code requires a MUT-3 to connect and manually re-enter the number of months, [if the BMU is good] OR replace the bad BMU and write this data into the new BMU.

There is a supposed to be a label on the battery pack that the service tech would use to calculate the number of months since manufacturing.

My guess is that this is an internal counter used to prevent fraudulent warranty claims on the battery pack.

This would be a good-to-know discussion in a new thread about care and keeping of the Aux battery, reasons why it's not a good idea to let it drain or disconnect, etc.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

kiev
Posts: 713
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: P1A15 High Voltage Error #1 DTC

Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:15 am

This code relates to how long it takes for the main capacitor in the MCU to charge up to the DC buss voltage. It seems like this would be the serious issue preventing your car from READY rather than the other code.

The main fuse is accessible from the bottom thru an access cover, but the main contactors are not. The charging current goes thru the smaller fuse in the MCU shown in the picture up-thread, and it can also be accessed thru the small MCU cover.

The service tech would raise the car and open the fuse covers, remove them and measure for continuity.

If you are brave and have a good quality voltmeter, then you could open the small MCU access cover and make some measurements.

First check for voltage on the buss: connect the meter to the main pack buss [+ and -] terminals
to ensure there is no voltage, Key OFF or out of the ignition.

If there is no voltage, then you can switch to the resistance or continuity scale and measure across the charging fuse to see if it is good.

Then connect in voltage mode across the buss again and try to start and see if voltage is getting to the MCU, should see ~275 to 360 VDC depending upon the "fuel" level. When you turn the key to start, listen closely to hear if the main contactors sound off like they are trying to engage, the normal clackity-clack.

If the contactors sound off but there is no voltage, then the main fuse is likely blown, or the contacts have arc debris holding them open. The main fuse could be replaced from below, but the main contactors cannot without opening the pack cover. If the pack is within the warranty period then bad contactors would be a reason to file a claim.

If there is voltage or it comes up too slowly, then the EV-ECU throws this code.

There is not much that a service tech can do except erase the code and see if it returns, and check for bad wiring or connector issues. There is a data list item #15 that can be checked with the MUT (or MUT clone, i have done this with the i909):
==========
STEP 7. M.U.T.-III freeze frame (FFD) data
Check the freeze frame data.
Item No. 15 : EMCU: Condenser voltage
OK result if data shows 220 V or more

Q. Is the check result normal?
Yes-Replace the inverter (MCU).
No- Replace the main battery assembly.
==========

When you turn the key OFF, the voltage should bleed down from the main buss at the capacitor. Just be careful not to touch anything with HV present.

The time is coming when we will either need to find mechanics that are willing to open a pack to replace cells or contactors, or do it ourselves. i'm preparing for the DIY approach and may be available to help others in the future.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:25 am

Thanks a lot! I will do it. I thought the same.

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sun Apr 08, 2018 2:34 pm

I opened access cover. Fuse are fine, but there is no any voltage on battery wires when i am switching car on. And i didn't hear any sound from conntactor. Just small click under dash and that is it.

kiev
Posts: 713
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sun Apr 08, 2018 6:04 pm

@Lic, does your car have a DCQC port--the Chademo level 3 charging port for HV DC directly to the pack?

Also do you have an OBDLink dongle and the Canion app on an android device to monitor the cell voltages? Or another miev owner in your area that has Canion and could plug in and do a quick check?
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Sun Apr 08, 2018 10:09 pm

Car has chademo port. I have obd link and canion. Canion sees battery fine, no problem with cells. It even showes me that car should show ready, but it does not.
I checked errors again and first time i didn't see errors related to high voltage system. I sow only errors c1394, u1111, u1116 (i sow them last time too but i thought they are not so serios), but after sometime while i played with launch tester x431 it appeared again. This tester kind of poweful. I am able to test some car system. But i didn't find test to try to close main contactor. I looked cells - look like they are fine. Max disbalance is 0.01v, battery voltage is 350v. I don't know what i should look next. I will try to search internet for those other errors. I tried to reset them but they are appear again. Especially c1394.

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:00 pm

So, I think I need to check CAN bus lines. I got errors from ABC (c1394), from instrumental panel (u1116), from TMPS (u1111) and from immobiliser (U1111). It is look like all of them connected to CAN1.

kiev
Posts: 713
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Fri Apr 13, 2018 2:47 am

Sounds like it could be a wiring or connector issue if the CAN1 buss is not being seen or responding. Maybe open and re-seat all the CAN buss connectors and look for cut or pinched wires. The junction between CAN1 and CAN2 is under the rear seat.

Has anyone been in there doing a recall service for airbag or something else. It's easy to pull the lower cover of the key switch and the knee panel to see the wiring. i removed the steel knee slicers while the cover is off.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Lic
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:11 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

Thu May 31, 2018 9:40 pm

i didn't have time to look car, so i decided to go to dealer to check car and may be to fix it. i towed car to dealer. first time they told me it is most likely computer died. second time they told me that they reprogrammed computer and car started working and they told me it happened because of not right 12v battery which i used. because it is new battery and because i checked this battery before (battery showed good current and good capacity) i told them i will not by battery from them and i understand risk to use my battery and i asked them to get car with my battery installed. when i came to get car they told me that they installed my battery and got same problem and they reprogrammed computer again to get car working with my battery. so i came, paid, moved car to dealer charger and left dealer because i didn't have another driver to go back on two cars. i came later with my wife. car was fully charged. i drove car back home about 30km and i didn't see any problems, but when i switched car of at home and switch it on - i got same problem and same errors. so i don't understand what is going on. most likely i will go to dealer and i will ask them what exactly they did to car.

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