Aerowhatt
Gold Member
Posts: 444
Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:52 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Thu Jun 04, 2015 7:06 pm

PV1 wrote:Isn't there an entire thread dedicated to range extenders?


Sorry . . . thought that was the current subject here.

Aerowhatt
(July) 2014 cool silver ES, acquired new 4/2015 (40.9ah at ~34K miles)
(Aug) 2014 Labrador Black Pearl ES, acquired new 3/2016 (39.7ah at ~20k miles)

PV1
Site Moderator
Posts: 2992
Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2012 4:22 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Contact: Website

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:03 am

Yeah, I guess it is. Sorry.
:idea: :idea: :idea: :!: :!:

Dropbox maintenance in progress. If any of my links aren't working after November 17, please PM me and let me know which one isn't working.

Thanks.

jray3
Posts: 1650
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am
Location: Tacoma area, WA
Contact: Website

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:22 am

Aerowhatt wrote:For a generator based range extender you need something purpose built to output DC regulated to around 360 volts or a bit less. Set up this way it couldn't overcharge the pack and too many regen amps would not be an issue because amps from the generator would drop as the cars motor regens, upping the apparent battery voltage. Most of the power from the generator would go straight to the motor controller over the top of the battery. Putting little stress or heat into the battery (less than driving without it). The systems shouldn't even see it for the most part since the i measures power in and out of the battery pack, at the battery pack. You would likely see some astronomical RR figures after a conventional recharge. But other than that it shouldn't effect the systems.


Excellent points on the DC genset. I was somewhat surprised to not see astronomical RR when running my pusher trailer, but in hilly driving it does put more stress into the battery, sending big amps back and forth while pushing max regen on downhills but still requiring electric boost on the uphills. During steady-state 65 mph cruising on the level, I do see 100+ RR, but there are very few 15 mile stretches of level highway in Western Washington that aren't also choked with traffic!
2012 i-SE "MR BEAN" 105,400 miles
2000 Mazda Miata EV, 78 kW, 17 kWh
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt EV,170 kW, 32 kWh
1983 Mazda RX-7 EV 43 kW 10 kWh
1971 "Karmann Eclectric" EV 240 kW 19 kWh
1965 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet

DBMandrake
Posts: 172
Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 4:57 am
Location: Scotland

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Fri Mar 24, 2017 8:06 am

martinwinlow wrote:What I would like to get rid of is the 'creep' facility. I know most people are used to it but that doesn't make it good, IMO. It is wasting energy all the time you are sat at the lights or in traffic and also causes the lazy and inconsiderate amongst us to sit with their brake lights on dazzling the driver behind.

Replying to a really old post I know, but I thought I'd mention that when you press the brake pedal on the Ion it does in fact disable the creep. But you have to press it a bit harder than required to hold the car stopped.

If you brake lightly and only just hold the brake pedal enough to keep you stationary creep remains engaged and energy is wasted. You can see this by the energy meter sitting about a needle width to the right of the neutral position. However if you just press the brake pedal a bit harder you'll see it drop back to neutral which indicates creep has been disabled, so no energy is wasted.

In fact if you do this on a hill then release the brake pedal quickly you'll feel the car roll backwards for a moment until the creep re-engages - a little bit disconcerting...
- Simon

EV: 2011 Peugeot Ion
ICE: 1997 Citroen Xantia V6

JoeS
Site Moderator
Posts: 3749
Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:47 am
Location: Silicon Valley, California

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:46 pm

DBMandrake, welcome to the forum and thank you for your post.

Our North American versions also operate just as you described.

Originally, I was not bothered too much by the creep 'feature', but after driving the Tesla (set to disable creep) I now fall into the camp of those not liking it.

Getting rid of creep and having very strong regeneration are just two of the changes that I wish all electric vehicle makers would implement and get away from the ICE vehicle mentality - or at least make it a user-selectable option.
EVs: 2 Wht/Blu SE Prem., '13 Tesla MS85, 3 156v CorbinSparrows (2 Li-ion), 24v EcoScoot(LiFePO4)
EV Conv: 156v '86 Ram PU, 144v '65 Saab 96
Hybrids: 48v1kW bike
ICE: '88 Isuzu Trooper. Mothballed: '67 Saab (orig.owner), '76 MBZ L206D RHD RV

GdB
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:06 pm

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Fri Mar 24, 2017 4:16 pm

Totally agree!

I have a hack idea if someone wants to try. I suspect the brake pressure switch is what deactivates the creep, or it could be a microswitch.

In theory, another microswitch, in parallel with the brake microswitch circuit, could be put under the throttle, activated when the throttle is released. This would also turn on the brake light whenever the throttle is released. This is maybe a good thing when using maximum regenerative braking.

JoeS wrote:DBMandrake, welcome to the forum and thank you for your post.

Our North American versions also operate just as you described.

Originally, I was not bothered too much by the creep 'feature', but after driving the Tesla (set to disable creep) I now fall into the camp of those not liking it.

Getting rid of creep and having very strong regeneration are just two of the changes that I wish all electric vehicle makers would implement and get away from the ICE vehicle mentality - or at least make it a user-selectable option.
My EVs: 2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV and 2019 Hyundai Kona Electric SEL

jray3
Posts: 1650
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am
Location: Tacoma area, WA
Contact: Website

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Fri Mar 31, 2017 8:46 am

Go for it GDB- kill that creep!
However, there is a fair amount of play, or slack in our gearboxes, most noticeable with the rear end off the ground. Creep reduces that back-and-forth rattling by keeping some load on the gears, and it could improve longevity by preventing the gears from getting 'hammered' on EVery acceleration from a stop. I think I feel this rattle in the gears when coasting, especially when the wheels are quickly sped up or slowed down on speed bumps, potholes, etc..
2012 i-SE "MR BEAN" 105,400 miles
2000 Mazda Miata EV, 78 kW, 17 kWh
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt EV,170 kW, 32 kWh
1983 Mazda RX-7 EV 43 kW 10 kWh
1971 "Karmann Eclectric" EV 240 kW 19 kWh
1965 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet

JoeS
Site Moderator
Posts: 3749
Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:47 am
Location: Silicon Valley, California

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Thu Jun 08, 2017 7:27 am

Anyone dive into this?

Car Hacker's Handbook http://opengarages.org/handbook/

Any use to us?
EVs: 2 Wht/Blu SE Prem., '13 Tesla MS85, 3 156v CorbinSparrows (2 Li-ion), 24v EcoScoot(LiFePO4)
EV Conv: 156v '86 Ram PU, 144v '65 Saab 96
Hybrids: 48v1kW bike
ICE: '88 Isuzu Trooper. Mothballed: '67 Saab (orig.owner), '76 MBZ L206D RHD RV

jjlink
Site Moderator
Posts: 398
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 8:26 am
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, CA

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Thu Jun 08, 2017 7:36 am

Yes, I just bought that book after paging through it at the Bay Area Maker Faire. It looked to be useful; I have not had a to read it yet since I have been out of town for the last week.
John - 2012 Silver i-MiEV SE model, Jan 19th, 2012 w/OpenEvse, caniOn,& OVMS.

jray3
Posts: 1650
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am
Location: Tacoma area, WA
Contact: Website

Re: Let the Hacking Begin

Wed Oct 24, 2018 12:25 pm

I just found this university project that is building a microbus on the chassis of an i-MiEV. Don't think it's been posted yet.
https://iot.ttu.ee/iseauto-saamislugu-1/
2012 i-SE "MR BEAN" 105,400 miles
2000 Mazda Miata EV, 78 kW, 17 kWh
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt EV,170 kW, 32 kWh
1983 Mazda RX-7 EV 43 kW 10 kWh
1971 "Karmann Eclectric" EV 240 kW 19 kWh
1965 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet

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